9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
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From: Sacramento
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
A 9 bolt has 9 bolts on the diff cover and a 10 bolt has 10 bolts.9 bolt is stronger.
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From: Kent, WA
Car: 83 z28
Engine: boat anchor 305 (ex CFI)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 bolt
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
A 10 bolt will also have little "horns" at the bottom of the housing. One on each side.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
Parts are also more rare for a 9 bolt, hence why some people "upgrade" their 9 bolt to a 10bolt, because they just can't get the parts to rebuild their 9 bolt.
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From: huntsville, al
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 6.8 HSR N2O
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser 3.50 True trac
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
Well that is the most obvious part. There is also a rubber plug on the diff cover plate for filling it with oil the 10 bolt doesn't have. Pretty easy to spot that.
As far as "upgrading" to a 10 bolt you're right. The parts are hard to find for 9 bolts and usually, well... always more expensive. Even little things like seals are a bit higher. There are new parts like ring gears and posi's from Austrailia and there's even a cap girdle now.
Now I'm not going to get into the "which one is better" debate but the 9 bolt is beefy for a little 7.75" ring gear. (oxymoron?) I really was impressed by the construction when I tore mine down. If I had to start from scratch I'd probably opt for the 10 bolt just because of the part selection/availability issue. So for the same $$ you can build a rear that probably just a strong if not stronger by going 10 bolt.
As far as "upgrading" to a 10 bolt you're right. The parts are hard to find for 9 bolts and usually, well... always more expensive. Even little things like seals are a bit higher. There are new parts like ring gears and posi's from Austrailia and there's even a cap girdle now.
Now I'm not going to get into the "which one is better" debate but the 9 bolt is beefy for a little 7.75" ring gear. (oxymoron?) I really was impressed by the construction when I tore mine down. If I had to start from scratch I'd probably opt for the 10 bolt just because of the part selection/availability issue. So for the same $$ you can build a rear that probably just a strong if not stronger by going 10 bolt.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
The 9 bolt also uses a 4 pinion carrier for more strength. The axles bolt in like a 9" instead of being held in with c-clips.
9 bolts are only moderately stronger but as mentioned above, parts are hard or impossible to find. You'll have a hard time finding a listing just for gears. They were only available in third gens from 87-89 so there's not a big selection of parts for them. They're used a lot in Australia in Holdens but importing parts gets very expensive.
Now if you're able to find one of the rare, over the counter, Dana 44 diffs for a third gen, that's a good strong diff with lots of parts available for it. Trouble is, if you do manage to find one for sale, it'll cost almost as much as buying a new bolt in Ford 9".
9 bolts are only moderately stronger but as mentioned above, parts are hard or impossible to find. You'll have a hard time finding a listing just for gears. They were only available in third gens from 87-89 so there's not a big selection of parts for them. They're used a lot in Australia in Holdens but importing parts gets very expensive.
Now if you're able to find one of the rare, over the counter, Dana 44 diffs for a third gen, that's a good strong diff with lots of parts available for it. Trouble is, if you do manage to find one for sale, it'll cost almost as much as buying a new bolt in Ford 9".
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
The 9 bolt also uses a 4 pinion carrier for more strength. The axles bolt in like a 9" instead of being held in with c-clips.
9 bolts are only moderately stronger but as mentioned above, parts are hard or impossible to find. You'll have a hard time finding a listing just for gears. They were only available in third gens from 87-89 so there's not a big selection of parts for them. They're used a lot in Australia in Holdens but importing parts gets very expensive.
Now if you're able to find one of the rare, over the counter, Dana 44 diffs for a third gen, that's a good strong diff with lots of parts available for it. Trouble is, if you do manage to find one for sale, it'll cost almost as much as buying a new bolt in Ford 9".
9 bolts are only moderately stronger but as mentioned above, parts are hard or impossible to find. You'll have a hard time finding a listing just for gears. They were only available in third gens from 87-89 so there's not a big selection of parts for them. They're used a lot in Australia in Holdens but importing parts gets very expensive.
Now if you're able to find one of the rare, over the counter, Dana 44 diffs for a third gen, that's a good strong diff with lots of parts available for it. Trouble is, if you do manage to find one for sale, it'll cost almost as much as buying a new bolt in Ford 9".
Are you sure 9 bolts were only available from 87-89? Reason I am asking is because I have a 1990 with a 9 bolt.
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Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
Are you sure 9 bolts were only available from 87-89?
I have a 1990 with a 9 bolt
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
They were actually in Firebirds from 85 to 89, and in Camaros from 87 to 89.A very very very few 90s from the earliest production run got leftovers from 89. But in general, 89 was the last year, except for those "stragglers". And of course, anybody can put any rear into any car, so unless you bought it brand-new, you have no way of knowign that it came in the car, as opposed to merely being in it right now.
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From: Oregon
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 355
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
Thanks for all the help guys. Building a road racer so there should not be a lot of shock from dumping clucth at a high RPM, but was reading threads and noticed that the 9 bolt was a little stonger. I suppose I will just build 10 bolt and use c clip eliminators. Have you heard of axles in 10 bolt maybe being on the fragile side? I can buy new axles but if I don't have to that would be great.
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From: Oregon
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 355
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
no I just plan on using what I have. The cost for parts and how difficult they are to locate I wiil just buy good parts for what I have. Thanks
Re: 9 bolt 10 bolt how do you tell the differance
Another tip for ya. If you want an excellent type of posi to use in a 10 bolt set up for road racing, go with the Zexel-Torsen type posi that came stock in the 98-02 10 bolts. The only catch to using one of them is that you'll need 28 spline axles, which came in 90 and newer 10 bolts. So if you start with a 90-92, 10 bolt axle, you'll already have the correct spline count. If you use an 89 or older 10 bolt, you'll have to buy some 28 spline axles. The older ones are 26 spline. Do a search here on the boards using "torsen", and check it out.
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