installing new clutch
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: machester CT.
Car: 1985 trans am WS6
Engine: 350cam,carb,intake,headers,3"exuast
Transmission: T5,
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi disks
installing new clutch
what do i tourque the pressure plate to please help i lost my chiltons
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
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Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: installing new clutch
Torque goes with fastener size.
Those being 3/8"-16 bolts, should be around 30-35 ft-lbs. Do them a little at a time, working your way around, to avoid warping the clutch and locking it onto the pressure plate in some funkified mode. Like, once the clutch starts grabbing the disc, turn the first one 1 turn, then move to the next, turn it 1 turn, etc., until they start to tighten up.
Those being 3/8"-16 bolts, should be around 30-35 ft-lbs. Do them a little at a time, working your way around, to avoid warping the clutch and locking it onto the pressure plate in some funkified mode. Like, once the clutch starts grabbing the disc, turn the first one 1 turn, then move to the next, turn it 1 turn, etc., until they start to tighten up.
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 383
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From: NY
Car: 88IROC, 91Z28 + parts cars
Engine: 355, 408
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1, 9" w/ 4.56 and spool
Re: installing new clutch
First I would strongly recomend replacing the bolts with grade 8 and new lock washers as well. I always torque mine sequentially to 15 then 32 ft lbs all the way around. I believe haynes and the GM manual for my 88 both list 32 as the recomended spec. Just make just not to go past 35 ftlbs like sofa said as it can over stretch the bolts to the point of plastic deformation
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,436
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: installing new clutch
If you replace the bolts, use actual clutch bolts ONLY. They are "special": they have a short thread section, with a shank between that and the head; and the holes in the flywheel have the threads down deep in there. The shank acts like a "dowel pin" to postively locate the clutch on the flywheel. Here's a super crappy pic of one. If your bolt doesn't have this "shank", you risk your clutch not being centered on the flywheel, which leads to all sorts of bizarre behaviors (none of them good).
A new set is less than $10, should be hanging in the "performance" aisle at AutoZone and such in the Mr Gasket stuff, or at your local speed shop, or you can order them from somebody like Summit. ARP and various of the clutch companies also sell them.
A new set is less than $10, should be hanging in the "performance" aisle at AutoZone and such in the Mr Gasket stuff, or at your local speed shop, or you can order them from somebody like Summit. ARP and various of the clutch companies also sell them.
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 383
Likes: 3
From: NY
Car: 88IROC, 91Z28 + parts cars
Engine: 355, 408
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1, 9" w/ 4.56 and spool
Re: installing new clutch
Well I can't speak for the availability of what your local hardware stores have, but the little family owned place near me had hardware with the same shoulder as the OEM stuff that came with the clutch setup I took out of the wrecking yard. But I wouldn't use hardware that didn't match its OE counter part
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