Okay I replaced the master and slave and still can not get a pedal? This what happened I replaced the fork and I forgot to grease it so the next day I take it back apart and grease it and when I get it all back together the pedal Seemed like it got air in it but now I put a new setup on it and still is not right why?

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

Anyone?

 

Did you bleed it after installation? If not you need to! It only takes about 2-3 pumps to bleed the air out. Watch the slave cylinder rod while someone steps on the clutch pedal. It should move about 3/4" or so (its been a while since ive looked!) If the slave cyl is working then something is wrong with the throw-out fork, TO bearing or clutch assembly.
you can email me at merf23@yahoo.com if you have any other questions
sean

 

It is probably bled incorrectly. Similiar to bleeding brakes but not exactly. Fill the res. with brake fluid, keep a good eye on the fluid level, pump 50 times, refil, open bleeder while someone depresses pedal. Start over again, pump 25 times and open bleeder, another 25, open bleeder, until there is no air left. It probably will take longer than you think. Now, if this doesn't work, disconnect the pushrod and take off the slave cylinder and make sure that the fork is on the pivot correctly. Make sure the metal tab is "engaged" on the pivot ball.

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'84 Trans Am
Crate 350 - 4 bolt main, Holley 600 w/vac. secondaries now open element
T-5 - Stock with Zoom clutch and PP

 

Guy's gm sends this as one unit, it comes filled with fluid and bleed already, it comes as one hole unit slave master line and all. So I should not have to bleed it. Would the fork not being on the ball not right cause this?

 

like i mentioned, look at the slave cylinder rod while someone presses the pedal...it should move approx 3/4" and return with each pump. If it moves a little with the first pump then a little more with the second, it needs to be bled. If the rod is moving as it is supposed to then it isnt a hydraulic problem. Why did you replace it?

 

Yes, as I stated above, it can be caused by the clutch fork not being installed properly.

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'84 Trans Am
Crate 350 - 4 bolt main, Holley 600 w/vac. secondaries now open element
T-5 - Stock with Zoom clutch and PP

 

The bearing was on the fork wrong and there was also some air in the new slave, thanks for your help. There also seems to be a little vibration in the pedal now.