Has anybody threaded the master cylinder arm in order to make it adjustable length? I did a swap into a 700R4 car and the pedal is about 2" higher than the brake pedal. I was thinking of shortening the master cylinder's arm somehow in order to adjust the pedal height. What do you think? Centerforce said the reason is probably that I'm using a different flywheel....thinner. And this is causing the whole hydraulic system to be out of alignment. Would this mod make sense?

 

Take a look at this.

 

Have you tried this? Looks good.....Do you know why the pedal would be so high with the stock hydraulics and the stock fork on a stock bellhousing?

 

RAM makes an adjustable master, if you want to go new

 

Good to know! TX....

 

Strange. Are you using the 3rd gen or 4th gen pedal set? We I did my swap the pedals lined up perfectly when I used the 3rd gen set. The 4th gen pedal set was slightly off buy not by much. I don't think it should have anything to do with the flywheel but hard to say for sure. That fix should solve the problem though.

 

Yeah....I'm really sure the pedals are 3rd gen.....My engine is a 1 piece rear seal and I used a lighter 'vette iron flywheel ( the one that has cutouts on the edge for lightness ). I think this flywheel is thinner than the stock model and maybe the one piece crank is set a bit further in than the two piece? Anyway, I'm thinking all those factors are changing the dimensions enough to cause the pedal alignment issues......I love the lighter flywheel, eventhough I have since bought the stock one....I really would like to avoid using the heavier one. Didn't GM use the one piece seal motors on the '86-92 camaros? Then I'm at a loss to explain!

 

vbMike...I just sent you a PM....

 

I had the same problem when I did my swap only I was using a 2 piece rms flywheel off an old straight 6 on my 350 (it was free). My entire hydrolic setup was from a 3rd gen, but it was all from a v6 car.. I never did anything to address it because it didn't bother me that much.. I figured my problem was the slave/master from the v6 car...it worked fine despite the pedal difference..

 

I just finished doing this mod on my car. Worked perfectly to cure the high clutch pedal with the T56 swap. Here is a link to the thread where my post about it is.

But DO NOT cut 1" out of the rod. That's way too much to remove.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ml#post3919642

 

How much higher was your pedal? Thanks for the link....Your notes explain perfectly! Definitely will cure my ills! I only wonder why I'm having this problem with a T-5 swap! I can understand some mismatching with a T-56 swap, but with a 3rd gen T-5 into a 3rd gen car? I have the bellhousing, the fork, the hydraulics!...the only variables are my flywheel and the newer one-piece rear seal motor. Maybe the firewall is different? My car was a automatic '83....before hydraulics were used! Seems the dimension differences are very small to cause the big pedal height difference!

 

Pedal was about 2" higher after the swap. Probably 1/2" higher than stock was. My clutch pedal has always higher than the brake was. Now it sits about 3/4" higher than the brake pedal.

It's very easy to adjust now. The clevis rod end is stationary, so you just loosen the jam nut and turn the lower portion of the rod. The rod isn't keyed, it's a ball end and turns freely.

Not sure why your having problems with a T5 swap. Hopefully this will cure it for you.

 

Do you think putting a 0.5"plate between the master cylinder and the firewall would achieve the same result?

 

Why would you want go to that much trouble making a spacer? Yes I did cut 1/2" out of my push rod, but I didn't use the entire 1/2" of adjustment. This way I can go shorter, stock length, or longer in a matter of moments. With a solid spacer you have no adjustment.

 

Yes, of course you're right! The adjustablity is key.....

 

I made one, but i busted one of the piston seals. Then i ended up buying a new RAM adjustable. If anyone wants my adjustable rod let me know.

 

Stevo..I sent you a PM....

 

Stevo...PM sent

 

wdigitog: Why don't you just do the mod yourself and not worry about getting the other rod? It's easy as can be. Takes 1/2 hour at most and cost less than $5.

 

You're right, alloy! Will do!

 

wdigitog, I beliebe you and others had that problem because of the location of the master cylinder holes you drilled. A little bit of variation, specially in the lower hole, will make a big difference where your clucth pedal rests.