I've got an 82 T/A with that wretched THM-200C (turbo 200 metric) what manual (4 or 5 speed) can i swap in without a whole lot of hassle? i know i'll have to get a bracket from B&M or Hurst to replace the torque arm, but an worried about the crossmember, hole in floorpan, clutch pedal/linkage and all that. does anyone sell a complete swap kit for this?

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Project:
82 T/A 305
Vortec 64cc heads
Edelbrock Performer vortec manifold
Holley 600 carb
Heddman Hedders
Accel super coil and super stock wires
B&M Megashifter
AutoMeter gauges

 

the 4 speed saganaws should fit your car with out a lot of changes since they came in that year camaros. find a donner car and rob everything you need.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

[This message has been edited by ede (edited February 03, 2001).]

 

Ok, what is included in "everything I need?" I've never done anything like this before... so what all would i have to try to find/grab?

 

Don't even worry about the 4 speeds. You'll never find parts!! I've tried. I finally gave up and bought a WC T-5 and everything else that goes with it.

If you want to know more than just "everything that goes with it", you'll have to e-mail me.

There are many, many, many other threads here that list "everything".

Plus, any question that you might have, has already been answered.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

 

I recommend swapping to a 200-4r. It would
be a lot easier to install than going manual
and they are plentiful.

 

How much is a WC T-5 running these days?

 

one with everything you need to convert a v-6- to v-8,or auto car to manual car costs $750 here in rockford.I asked the yards if they were going to give me a tub of vaseline with that deal too lol

 

I payed $720 for everything.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

 

That sounds pretty good.

Now if it put in the T-5 and all its stuff, would i be able to use the same pedals and fluid reservoir if i wanted to put in a T-56 later down the road?

What about bellhousing, definietly not the crossmember right?

 

Pedals, yes. Hydrolics, no. The T-56 slave pushes from the rear of the bellhousing, and the T-5 pushes from the front. The T-56 has a longer line for that reason.

 

I can definitely halp you on this one, I did it. I have an 82' Camaro that had the TH-200. I put a WC T-5 from a 91 in it, it is awesome. Obviously you will need the tranny, the bellhousing, the driveshaft, the torque arm, the clutch pedal setup(under dash), master-slave setup (linkage), and clutch and flywheel. First the driveshaft has to be either a T-5 one or a 700-R4 one. They are the same. Next you need the Torque arm and matching tranny torque arm mount from either a T-5 or a 700-R4. Replace the rubber bushing with a polyeurathane one from Energy, lube it with anti sieze. The reason you have to repalce the torque arm and mount is because the TH-200 is shorter and the mount is different. Some mounts have fins that face in, some face out. Make sure you get the right repalcement mount from energy suspension. You could get the torque arm and mount at a junkyard. Next you need the clutch pedal setup(under the dash). Get it at the junkyard as well. Get the kind that works with a master-slave type clutch linkage. You could get this out of a V-6 car, they are the same. Next you need the master-slave (linkage) assembly. Just buy a new one from the dealer, because the old ones are usually shot. Get one from a LT1 car, because they are a flexible SS line instead of a molded plastic line (easier to work with). Your older motor is a two piece rear seal model, so you will need a flywheel (153 tooth fits stock starter and T-5 bellhousing) that fits a Two piece seal crank. I just bought a centerforce billet unit for about $200. I bought a Centerforce Gold clutch to copliment it.
-First mount the flywheel and clutch(using th alighnment tool) on the engine (assuming the automatic is gone) ***be sure to put a new pilot bering in..get the needle roller bering model from say a 91'..it will go right in the older crank.
-Next mount the bellhousing on the engine, making sure to enguage the clutch fork to the pilot bering
-remove the center console and automatic shifter
-now you will have to measure where the hole will need to be for the shifter, cut it our with a sawsall (there is a flat region where where you will cut the hole for the shifter to go through)
-Next slip the tranny in the bellhousing and bolt it up to the bellhousing and mount the crossmember up.
-now install the shifter and install the dust boot (buy a new one)
-mount the torque arm mount to the tranny and mount the new torque arm to the rear end and to the tranny Torque arm mount.
-install driveshaft.
-hook up the speedo cable (I'll leave the proper gear selection to you)(also contact JTR for support and proper gears, they are great-that where I got mine)
-------Driveline is in
-mount the clutch pedal/brake pedal assy under the dash after removing the old unit
-Pop out the plug in the firewall (behind clutch pedal) that is held in place by a removable clip and putty.
-this is kind of a fitting process.. but you will have to elongate the firewall hole (a little) to get the master cylinder in the right location. There is twofirewall supports that run down from the clutch pedal bracket that will give you the general location for the master cylinder. You will have to drill the two bold hole for the master cylinder. (you'll figure it out)
-now run the slave cylinder down and mount it on the bellhousing.
-now you need to hook up the neutral/park safety switch. It is part of that big harness that was plugged onto the auto shifter. This part is the yellow and purple wires (the fat ones). These wires need to go over to the switch that the clutch pedal hits when depressed all the way. This way you can not drive the car with the starter.
-next hook up the reverse lights. I forgot the colors of these two wires, but test the old auto shifter to find which two have continuity when in the reverse position and find the corresponding wires on the harness. You will need to purchase a weatherpack connector that fits the plug in the middle side of the tranny. hook the reverse light wires up to this connector.
-reinstall the center console and now you will have to find the "stick" console insert and put it in. (you can get these form Year One's Next Generation restoration and performance.
-fill the tranny and have fun.
----This is kind of general, just ask me if I left our anything, I sure I know it. Good luck!

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82' Z-28. 327" w/ flat tops. 216/228/112LS. Pocket ported 041 heads 1.94/1.50 SS valves. World Class T-5 from a 91'. Best run? Runs with 2001 vette to 150mph!

 

If you want to install a T-56 down the road make sure you install the LT1 master-slave and the hydraulics will not be a problem. I also put a T-56 in my 1969 chevelle. I am very educated on manual tranny swaps. Any question Just ask me!

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82' Z-28. 327" w/ flat tops. 216/228/112LS. Pocket ported 041 heads 1.94/1.50 SS valves. World Class T-5 from a 91'. Best run? Runs with 2001 vette to 150mph!