3504mula

I am buying an 86 Z28 rear end from a guy and was wondering what it takes to do the swap. It is a drum just like mine. What level of skill does it take to accomplish this task? I know it is hard, but do you think me and my dad could do it in a weekend even though neither of us have done this before? Any help/opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

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1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Random Technology 3" Exhaust(no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*170* Thermostat
*'99 16x8 Formula Wheels
*Metco Lower Control Arms
w/ Lowering brackets
*F-Body Perf. Panhard Rod

Gerald Jackson

3504mula, you should be able to make the change in one weekend. The hardest part will be the ebrake. I made the change without air in one weekend.

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82 cross-fire, 410 gears
700r4

[This message has been edited by Gerald Jackson (edited March 13, 2001).]

Birmass

All you really have to do is unbolt the old one and put the other one in. You'll also have to bleed the brakes. Just get the lines all hooked up and loosen them by the drums. Then pump the pedal until you see a steady stream of fluid coming out of the threads on the drums. The retighten them. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the reservior and make sure that the cap is on the reservior or it will spit out when you pump the pedal. I was able to get mine done one night by myself so you shouldn't have any problems. Just spray everything with penetrating oil the day before to loosen the old junk up.

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.

RB83L69

I think the fastest I've ever sone one, by myself, laying in my driveway, without air, was a little over 3 hours. My first one took all day. With 2 people, it should go much faster. It's not a really "hard" job actually, dirty and uncomfortable and maybe stuck hardware, but not hard. Have a set of sockets from 5/8" to 1", and a set (2 sets if you can) of combo wrenches in those sizes, a big can of penetrating oil, and learn a few optional words. A good way to handle it is to have one person under the car doing stuff, and the other person handing tools, eetc. Swap positions once in a while. Getting the old one out will be harder than getting the new one in, because of rusty bolts and such. Be prepared to do a brake job on the "new" one. It doesn't take very much technical skill, so it's an OK job for somebody that is more than a beginner but maybe still not a pro.

Have fun!!

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

86Tra/maro

Yeah that sounds about right! more importantly the new words,& phrases after u bang your hands on things! L O L....>

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86 Tramaro 90% Trans Am/ 10% IROC/Z (nose, hood,& fenders)
Trans Am Mods as of 1/10/01
3inch
T.E.S/Flowmaster setup,gutted cat,gutted maf,relocated mat,373 gears,upgraded factory chip,255 liter h/press. walpro f/pump & throttle body coolant bypass
njdaewoo@excite.com

GMTech

10 bolt swap

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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen


ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Some advice based on knowledge gained at U of HK (University of Hard Knocks):

Remove the torque arm from the front 1st to relieve the force on those two large bolts at the axle. You'll never get them out if there is any twist on the axle at all being resisted by the torque arm.

Take the springs out before you take the torque arm off at the front. If you don't, and have the frame supported on jack stands and the axle hanging down on the shocks (or even held up with a floor jack), the springs put a twist on the axle that makes the torque arm want to go up - loosen it from the front that way, and you'll find yourself hanging like an ape under the car with your hand between the torque arm and tunnel.

I did my first swap in 5 hours by myself (including the ape hanging bit), even had to run to the parts store to get wheel cylinders to match my brake lines (you won't have that problem). The second went in 4 hours with a complete brake rebuild (including the trip to the parts store) with a little help steadying the axle on the floor jack from my 12-year old.

Tech's website is pretty good, just add my items above and the two of you will get it done lickity split.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, TBD heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

3504mula

I appreciate all the help. I feel a lot more confident we can do it now. What do I have to do about correcting the speedo from 3.27 to 3.42?

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1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Random Technology 3" Exhaust(no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*170* Thermostat
*Metco Lower Control Arms
w/ Lowering brackets
*F-Body Perf. Panhard Rod
*1999 16x8 Formula Wheels
*White Face Gauge Overlays

84IROC

not enough to mater.......

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'84Z28/'92 305TPI
'92 complete rear suspension/PBR disc/Posi/3:42
Light weight 34.5mm stabilizer bar in front ($10 from wrecking yard)/
"wonder Bar" ($5 from wrecking yard)
23mm sta. bar in rear
Rear RS Springs (slightly softer than my Z28)
comp cam, flowmaster
TB coolantbypass/shutoff valve to heater core
powersteering cooler lines (liberated from another wrecked car of course)
MAT relocated
Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box
IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's
700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit btw)
home-made strut tower brace (cost $6)

Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself.

Love this engine!

freshly painted OCT. 2000 Teal with two white stripes on the hood and deck lid

LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

leirch

Since your going from 3.27's to 3.42's i would fix the speedo. That is probly one of this biggest things i can't stand!, if having an invalid speedo..
Good thing is. All you have to do is go to a GM dealer and get the gear for your 700r4. The gear is extremely EASY to swap out also(wish i could say the same for the damm T5).
Oh yea, when me and my dad did the swap from 10bolt drum to 9bolt disc we took about 10 hours and that was with a lift. BUT, we ran into SEVERAL problems. And stopped to eat a couple times. But we still did it in a Saturdays time so you should be just fine.
Oh yea, check for rotted bolts and anything that looks "iffy" replace it, bolt wise that is. And if your shocks are about gone, you might as well replace them if everything is out of the car. Oh yea, don't forget to change the diff. lube in the new rear end.

Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here