ok im in a delema im trying to figure out what stall would my setup would benifit the most with. i had a 2800 stall from a company i found on ebay i think it was acc but with my little motor it would only brake stall to 1900 and flash to 2200 and was not quite enough. so i swaped in a converter i had that was in the car when i bought it and guy said it was a 3k stall so i figured what the hell ill try it well got it back together and it might as well be stock i can only get about 1500 braking it and car jerks when i put it in gear and doesnt want to idle very well. took it to the track 1/8th like this and would bog bad of the line could only get a best of 2.3x 60' but ran a best of 9.7 with second gear tire spin for about 20-30ft and ran 76mph. had a untuned carb too secondarys were too large and wrong springs in it. ive sence rejetted my carb and it pulls much harder but i just need more converter, still need suspension work and tires but as of right now i dont have a traction problem unless im already at a roll.

specs are 82 t/a no options 305 .030 over flat tops performer rpm intake 1406 carb hedman lt headers 1.6 roller rockers sum 1103 cam 214 int./224 exh @050 0.442 int./0.465 exh. lift @050 should be 228/239 with my 1.6 rr and .471/496 with 1.6rr stock 416 heads been shaved a lil "z28" springs guide plates screw in studs th350 with shiftkit ls1 alum ds 3.73's eaton posi with 28spline axles. prob too much info but anyway. im looking at a 3000 or 3500 converter with anti balloning plates since i plan to spray. anyway got any sugestions. thanks

 

Summit 1103 camshaft has an advertised duration of 272/282. Operating range is 2000-4500. That cam only needs a stall speed in the 2500-3000 range. If you want a higher stall speed, you need a better camshaft.

You'll never know the true stall speed of a converter unless you use a transbrake. How much a converter stalls at depends on how much torque is put into it. A converter that stalls at 2500 behind one engine may only stall at 2200 behind a different engine.

 

so basicly if i get a good quality 3k stall it may or may not be enough? if i could get one to stall 2200-2500 on the brake on this motor id be happy and i believe it would help it greatly. this motor pulls nicely in the top end but just needs more grunt to pull itself off the line. i dont plan to swap out the cam since the car will be getting a new motor hopefully by next spring/summer anyway but would really like to try to pull off high 8's with this motor before i yank it out. thanks

 

Buy a converter rated for the stall speed recommended by the camshaft. If the car doesn't have enough grunt because of gears, heads, intake etc, it's not the camshafts fault if it can't make enough torque for the converter.

The converter stall speed is to allow the engine rpm to quickly get into the camshafts powerband where it will make the most power efficiently.

 

thank you.

 

I saw this big time with my set up at the beginning of this past season. I ran my motor that is made for boost without it and it only got up to 3200rpm on the transbrake WOT. Once I hooked the blower back up, I don't know what it will go to, but I have the rev limiter keeping it at 4700rpm. For what your idea is of a perfect converter, I think you need to talk to someone and get a custom one.

 

well like i said im not keeping this motor in forever hopefully pulling it out in the late spring but it did better with the 2800 i had in it but still not quiet enough. also that converter was a stock size one from a company called acc i think it would let it idle nice in gear and stall better than what i got now but still not enough. i dont plan to change cams now but id rather swap the converter to something to give me a lil more grunt if i can but that will work good for my new motor

 

here is a video of it with the 2800 at the begining of the video i do a small launch and let out but if i remember correctly i only stalled to to about 1500 when i did it though. rest of it is just a burnout.

this was also before i tuned the carb when this video was made and when i took it to the track the carb had diff springs and jets in it and i hadnt hada vac gauge on it yet

 

Your cam and intake are both too much for your 305. a 214/224 cam with 1.6:1 rockers will give you 216/226, not 228/239 (effective duration). In your engine, it should pull 5500 rpm, not just 4500. heck, in a stock-headed 350 it'll pull 5000.

 

well i shift at 6k and it pulls nicely all the way there. much more than that its just making noise.

 

loose converters are better than tight ones for the track to lower your 60 foot times but too much hurts on top. Go for broke and put a loose converter in. most real bracket cars minimum of 4000, but this is too much for a street car in my opinion. I like the 3500 converters because they are touching some torque but still can make it around town without too much headache. I run 3500 and drive approx. 50 miles to my cruise nights and such and it's not too uncomfortable. Get out of the 2's and you'll never buy anything less. We all have our vices.

 

yea car is mainly a toy/fun car drive it to work some mainly just messing around town tearing up the backroads and take to tnt's. i dont mind a loose converter but i dont think i will go anyhigher than a 3500. i plan to spray so im looking at one with anti balloning plates too.

 

the price of those things are rediculous. Spray will make the converter beg for mercy if you get the thing to hook up. I used a non balloon type for approx. 15 passes and nothing happened. I switched from spray to supercharger and still use the same converter-made in my sac town by a local converter shop. Their price for my 3500 stall at the time was approx $350. but that was a couple years ago. Their #is 916-921-6600 and they do good work. I've seen some of the same stall speed for over $700 and think W.O.W. it's just a piece of metal with oil in it.