what do i have to do the replace the pinion seal in my rear end?

now i dont have an 89 rear end, its out of an 83 Z28?

is there a crush sleve on the pinion?

 

the all have crush sleeves.

-you have to remove the driveshaft
-mark the position of the nut in the yoke, count the threads sticking out, ect. the nut has to go back on to the same spot it was so you dont affect the preload.
-remove the bug nut, probably will need an impact gun.
-the yoke will come right out, you may loose some fluid
-you have to work a thin blade screwdriver or other prying tool in between the seal and the housing, work all around the seal instill it comes out. All the diff oil will most likely come out as well, be prepared.
-Install the new seal by lightly tapping it in, working around the seal evenly, until it is all the way in the housing.
-re-install the yoke, nut and driveshaft
-fill the diff with gear oil

 

but i dont need to take the whole rear apart to do this????, someone told me i may have to to repace the crush sleve??????

THANK GOODNESS THE REAR IS OUT OF THE CAR

 

it is my understanding that once you remove the nut off the yoke on the diff, youve already affected pinion bearing preload. yes u can change the oil seal and just count the threads, and put the nut back on with the same amount of threads, but its not the same thing. the correct way to do it would be to change the crush sleeve as well since theyre made to be one time use, and once all the preload is off of it, it cant be re used

 

The way I do it is like this. Remove the pinion nut and yoke. Remove the seal. Clean the splines of the yoke and the housing where the seal goes in. Smear a little RTV sealant into the housing and drive the seal in. Smear a little grease around the rubber lip of the seal. Smear RTV sealant into the splines of the yoke and install it. Use a new pinion nut with red Loktite on the threads. Torque the nut to 150 foot pounds. This should do it. I have checked the pinion bearing preload on some rear ends before I disassembled them and then installed a nut and torqued it to different amounts to see where the pinion bearing preload changed. Usually it was 200 foot pounds before the preload started to increase, so 150 should be safe. This will be tight enough to keep the nut from backing off and also tight enough to keep the bearings tight.

 

You can get an idea of the preload before disassembly using a torque wrench and check the effort required to rotate the assembly. Probably between 15 and 20 lbs/ft. In my case, I reinstalled the old nut ( it should be new ) after replacing the seal and used an impact gun and gradually tightened the nut. The turning effort was checked with the torque wrench until I achieved what the initial measurement was. The impact gun is easier to use especially if the rear is out of the car. You'll be surprised how much you can apply the impact gun and gain very little in terms of tightening the nut.
I went through this during an emergency rebuild of my 9-bolt. The diff sounds and behaves no differently than before.

 

You mean 15-20 in/lb?

You can count the threads and install the pinion nut that way, or you can find a needle style torque wrench that reads in/lb and check the pre-load that way.

 

well it was my understanding to always replace the crush sleeve, obviously its a one time shot if you crush it too far you gotta start over, when i did the first 10 bolt setup it took me like 2 tries, if you screw with it, and you put something new in place of the worn parts and only do it half way then you may cause the backlash and preload to be offset, may as well just do the whole job instead of trying to cut corners

IMHO

 

All you are replacing is the seal. It has nothing to do with the bearing preload or anything else. As long as the nut is tight enough to hold tension on the bearings and not tight enough to crush the spacer any more then it will work.

Here is something to think about. Propbably more than half of the pinion seal leaks are caused by a bad pinion bearing. If this is your case then replacing the seal will not fix the problem, and it will likely leak again. If you do replace any bearings then the crush spacer must also be replaced and the bearing preload set correctly. This will require removal of the axles and differential too.

 

It has everything to do with the bearing pre-load. It's no different than when you set up a new set of rear gears. If the nut is too tight, you'll wear your bearing out, if it's too loose then you'll probably destroy your rear gear if you're not careful. Personally why not spend an extra five minutes counting the threads or an extra $50 on a torque wrench or you can spend a few hundred dollars if your not right.

 

That's not what I meant. I mean that the seal has nothing to do with it. The seal has nothing to do with the bearing preload. Yes, if you get the nut too tight or loose then you will have problems. I have tested this several times. I have built more than 400 rear ends over the last 11 years and tried many things along the way. By torquing the nut to 150 foot pounds the bearing preload will stay the same and the nut will be tight enough to hold tension on the bearings so that nothing moves around. When you get around 200 foot pounds the bearing preload begins to change, so 150 is a safe number. There is no way to get an accurate measurement of the bearing preload when the differential and axles are still installed, so if you want to measure preload with a preload gauge you must remove these parts. There is just too much variation in friction with all of these parts installed and the measurement will not be accurate.

Measuring pinion bearing preload on a Chevy 12 bolt with a preload gauge.

 

so im taking it that the simple back woods way is to tighten it to 150ft/lbs, because im NOT taking it apart and i sure the hell aint paying $800 to have it done.......guy wants $800 no mather what he does, as long as he has to get into the rear he wants $800, $800 the rebuild it, $800 the put a eaton carier in $800 to do the seal

 

old 2.73 rears pinion, kinda missing a hunk aint it

lol

 

What a crook. Hell $800 is a rip off to even have it rebuilt, there are tons of off road shops that would do it for $300 plus parts.

Anyways have you loosened the nut at all? If not just take a paint marker and mark the nut and the threads on the pinion. Count the number of times you spin the nut around as you take it off and just reinstall it back the same number of times.

 

yea i know he is a crook, i told him where to go also

i found someone that would do it for $80 he is a friend of a freind

i may just have him do it, all i got to do is get the parts

thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!