I purchased a used valve body for my "1st type" 700-R4. I wanted to use this valve body to put the Trans-go shift kit into my tranny.

My question is this: is there any way to tell if the valve body is good or bad? Is there anything I should be looking for on the valve body I just purchased to tell whether or not it would be OK to use?

I want to keep my own original valve body just in case I dont like the way the Trans-Go feels.

Joe


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86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip

Next mod = trans-go shift kit (level 1)

 

Here's the problem you are likely to run into. Even if you get the correct type (Aux or not), most 700 VB's will not give the correct shift points for your car (5500RPM WOT). You could end up with a 4500 RPM shifter (maybe less due to shorter shifts caused by the TransGo Kit). The good news is that in SOME of the cases you could reuse ALL of the valves from the original VB and put them into the other VB CASTING to make up for the modifications done to it by the kit.

What exactly are you after? The kit (depending on calibration and options you make) will give short shifts especially at high throttle, where you may get the tires to break loose (this is as much a functin of traction as anything else). It will give you full control to either hold a gear as long as you want or to manually downshift to any gear you want (be carefull!). It is NOT just a bang kit and if that is what you are after you might like the B&M stuff as that is their goal. The TransGo Kit will increase the life of a properly functioning transmission.

Another point is that the 'firmness' of a shift doesn't tell you how well the tranny is operating. Tires chirping will cause a slower ET (slower acceleration) and can waste usefull energy. The shift, though short, should not be a shock type shift. If the tires break loose it should be because of POWER overcoming traction DURING the shift, not a clutch popping bang.

[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited April 25, 2001).]

 

I really just wanted to know if there was a way to tell if the used valve body was in good shape. it should be an exact replacement for the one that i have in my tranny now.

I bought the used valve body so i could use *it* for the shift kit, and preserve my original valve body as a safety precaution (in case I screw up, or dont like the way the shift kit drives).

I have the used valve body in a bag in my livingroom, and i want to know what i should be looking for to tell if its good to use. I was under the assumption that as long as nothing is broken, the valve body would be fine to use.

Hope this clears up the question.

Thanks,
Joe


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86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip

Next mod = trans-go shift kit (level 1)

 

The valve body should be oily but clean, in otherwords you should be able to see the valves & aluminum bushings fairly clear (not dark black). Look down into the passages (use a bright light) and see if there is a lot of powdered metal in the bottom of the passages. If there is both of these as I mentioned, you might have problems getting it apart or with the valves sticking in the bushings. I would have someone you trust who is familiar with inspecting automotive parts take a look at the valve body you want to use. If you have shift timing problems now you might want to follow the advice below. When we are building the first type valve bodies using the Trans-Go Performance Shift kit, we also install the Trans-Go Sysko Shift kit (Green & White box) to correct shift timing problems on 1982-1987 units. We install all new shift timing springs (step 7), install new governor springs (step 2), & do step 3 on the band adjustment, and maybe a different governor to match the engines WOT shift points. As you can see there is a lot to building a 700R4, and this is only some of it. If you need some help call me at 800 7763288 Mon-Sat 10-6 PST.
Glad Too Help!!!

 

Thanks for the info Pro-Built!

I got the valve body from a transmission parts specialty store, and they assured me that it was fully functional. It was (is) very clean when I got it, as was the plate.

What can I do to keep the 1-2 shift from getting too rough at light throttle?


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86 IROC TPI 305
700-R4
K&N Air filters
Dyno-Max cat-back
Summit tranny cooler
CEI throttle enhancer chip

Next mod = trans-go shift kit (level 1)

 

Put a corvette servo in and NOT defeat the 1-2 accumulator piston (like a b&m 'kit')

It may be a good idea to shim or put a heavier spring in the accumulator, but blocking it will cause an overly harsh shift all the time and not have the same 'correct' feel of the corvette servo.

The accumulators for the 1-2 and 3-4 are in (under) the round aluminum covers. Spring weights are color coded.

The aluminum pistons in these have a nasty habit of wearing egg shaped and leaking. Pull the pin out and put the piston on and rock it. http://www.hptransparts.com has a kit with the boost valve and pistons for under $20 if they are shot.

They have the servo too. This will give nice firm but not overly harsh shifts at wot and smooth light cruise shifts.

 

I agree with JoelOl75, the 1-2 accumulator has to be in good shape to perform the way it should. Depending on which accumulator valve you have in the valve body will determine some of the firmness at light throttle openings. This can be addressed now, pull out the accumulator valve & bushing (sleeve) in the valve body. On the back side of the bushing there will be a letter, such as "B" or "A" etc. Once the letter is known then I can tell you which spring combination will work best with the Corvette servo to give nice part throttle shifts to firm WOT shifts. Let me know as soon as you find out. You can call if you desire at 800 7763288 and I answer any questions you might have.
Hope This Helps!!!

 

Did anyone mention this...? I believe the top (open part) of the valvebody should be as flat as possible, and not warped. Use a machinist's straight edge & a feeler gauge...

[edit] I would say getting it magnafluxed is a good idea; but I don't know how you'd get the metal filings out of it when it was done!

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited April 27, 2001).]