just had my tranny rebuilt new stall everything all the new up dates vette servo
shifts ausome but for some reason 2nd gear doesnt hit as hard as 3rd does i mean 2nd hits good and shifts good no overlap but no tires barking when i shift 2-3rd the tires seem to want to break loose but dont.. so my question is since its late i am anxious to know why is this this way i will call the tranny guy in tehmorning but i would lke to knwo something now!! also not to beat teh tv cable thing into the ground but when i adjusted it the way it said to it only ratched out 2 clicks does this sound right? hwo could i get 2nd to hit harder?? an which way on the t.v cable do i push it in to make it hit harder? and is it pulling th ecable to far out causes the tranny to die or the other way around thanks!!!

------------------
1988 firebird ws6 formula350tpi ascd ram air hood GT AUTO factory fiberglass wing black paint with blue pearl centerline champ 500 16x8 all around potenza 245 50 16 on front and 27x11.5 16 mickey thompson sportsman pros on the rear(real sticky!!) msd 6al box blaster 3 coil accel 8.8 race wires hooker shorty headers hooker cat back system pro shift light A pillar gauge pod and water temp and air/fuel ratio gauges autometer oil pressure gauge b&m mega console shifter vette servo custom ram air system with a 9" K&N cone filter tb coolant bypass slp runners polished plenum and runners 170* thermostat smog pump and a/c delete plus cat delete march underdrive pullies, tpis airfoil cvr high torque starter (love it) aluminum drive shaft
best 1/4 mile run of 14.44@ 96.53
this run is before the new exhaust system new sticky tires coolant by pass smog removal new runners new thermostat and new three core radiator since i would get to the line and be well over 220* aluminum drive shaft and vette servo
also 1997 grand prix gtp black with custom cold air indcution... its the my girl friends and i havent got to run it at the track yet but i will!!! yes i will... well as soon as she lets me lol.. but it seems pretty quick for a 6 and front wheel drive

 

anyone??

------------------
1988 firebird ws6 formula350tpi ascd ram air hood GT AUTO factory fiberglass wing black paint with blue pearl centerline champ 500 16x8 all around potenza 245 50 16 on front and 27x11.5 16 mickey thompson sportsman pros on the rear(real sticky!!) msd 6al box blaster 3 coil accel 8.8 race wires hooker shorty headers hooker cat back system pro shift light A pillar gauge pod and water temp and air/fuel ratio gauges autometer oil pressure gauge b&m mega console shifter vette servo custom ram air system with a 9" K&N cone filter tb coolant bypass slp runners polished plenum and runners 170* thermostat smog pump and a/c delete plus cat delete march underdrive pullies, tpis airfoil cvr high torque starter (love it) aluminum drive shaft
best 1/4 mile run of 14.44@ 96.53
this run is before the new exhaust system new sticky tires coolant by pass smog removal new runners new thermostat and new three core radiator since i would get to the line and be well over 220* aluminum drive shaft and vette servo
also 1997 grand prix gtp black with custom cold air indcution... its the my girl friends and i havent got to run it at the track yet but i will!!! yes i will... well as soon as she lets me lol.. but it seems pretty quick for a 6 and front wheel drive

 

Skip the book method. It tends to bend things and put them out of proper orientation to the other parts. Do this: Loosen the adjustment by pressing the 'D' release button. Have someone floor the gas peddle and keep it there. Look at the throttle blade to see if it is actually WOT. Usually it will wiggle. Release gas peddle so you can bend brackets or whatever until it does go WOT and then hold it there. Now press the 'D' button again and pull the cable back as hard as you can and release the 'D' button. Your tranny, throttle and cable are all in sync now at true WOT position. Mark the cable casing where it comes out of the adjuster with a knife so that if the adjuster was moved you could put it right back where it goes. Leave it there. It can't go out any more W/O bending something. If the tranny doesn't work right from here it isn't the adjustment. That just sends gas peddle position info to the trans which in turn decides what to do with it from there.

[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited May 12, 2001).]