It seems the tranny is shifting through the gears really quick at part throttle. I'm in 3rd and it's at 1500rpm. The bigger problem is, at WOT it won't shift out of 2nd unless you let off, then get back in it when the rpm's ~3500. I tried leaving it in drive and manually shifting...same result when holding on the floor.

I just bought this car and I knew the next step was to address the stock tranny and rear end, but I'd like to be sure it's not something that could be addressed with an adjustment. Everything shifts fine when just cruising.

------------------
'87 Formula WS6 - ZZ4 TPI, ported heads, LT4 hot cam, 1.6RR, larger runners, Accel lower, ported plenum, Edelbrock TB, pulleys, headers and full exhaust, Koni yellows.

 

Mine does the same exact thing and it's the 3-4 clutch pack that's going.....or so I'm told. Rebuild time!

 

It is possible that your TV cable needs adjustment. This controls pressure in the trans to control proper shift points, there is a step by step procedure in the tech articles.

------------------
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
FLOWMASTER
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
2:73 GEARS
Rebuilt 700R4, with manual valve body
B&M Megashifter
Soon to be installed
Exhaust Cut-Out
"There is nothing more addicting than speed"

 

Try adjusting the TV cable first. This affects all your shift points.


------------------
1986 Trans Am
carbed 350 - .30 over with 9.75:1 comp.
+- 315hp/390ft lbs.
700-R4 with 2500 stall
3.27 (ick!) gear
SLP 1 3/4" headers w/MAC catback and cat.
96 5 stars
SFC's, braces, arms, and a bunch more expensive stuff
no timeslips yet

 

To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the D button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting. Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal floored, press the D button and pull the cable back as hard as you can and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.

 

It worked...I adjusted the cable last night and it now makes the 2-3 shift at WOT. Although now it doesn't kickdown from Drive. It still seems like it shifts 1-2 way early at part throttle. I've got to go ahead and get this thing rebuilt to take advatage of this motor. It seems like the motor is always waiting on the tranny. Any advice on stall rpm?

------------------
'87 Formula WS6 - ZZ4 TPI, ported heads, LT4 hot cam, 1.6RR, larger runners, Accel lower, ported plenum, Edelbrock TB, pulleys, headers and full exhaust, Koni yellows.

 

still got a stock cam in it?
whats your ring and pinion #'s

 

oh d'oh l just read your sig, where does the hot cam begin its power band, thats where you want your stall to be at. like 1500 RPM's l think for the hot cam?

 

Actually this motor makes a ton of torque around 3500rpm. I'm thinking about a 2800 stall.

------------------
'87 Formula WS6 - ZZ4 TPI, ported heads, LT4 hot cam, 1.6RR, larger runners, Accel lower, ported plenum, Edelbrock TB, pulleys, headers and full exhaust, Koni yellows.