See subject. :P

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1992 Pontiac Firebird (stock)
- 5.0L V8 TBI / Automatic Trans / Every option, excluding leather
- Killer car audio system:

• Aiwa CDC-MP3 head unit
• Rockford Fosgate 360a2 amp
• pair of 12" MTX Thunder 5000s in a custom box
• Pioneer 3-way 6x9s, soon to add more more more!

 

For one, this is a power adder board.

Ignoring any loss in power for imbalances the benefits of an al driveshaft are minimal. Even though the driveshaft will weigh less statically, the moment of inertia will be very similar to a steel unit because al driveshafts usually have larger diameters. So, is the performance gain of 15 pounds (max) static worth a few hundred?

Now driveshaft imbalance is another issue but I doubt your car has issues with that yet.



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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI)
T-5 transmission
Edelbrock TES and cat back
Accel manifold
NOS
subframes
jegster torque arm
MSD Digital 6
AFPR
Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock
SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486)
relocated battery
cold air
Hypertech chip
centerforce df clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
a/f gauge
autopower rollbar

12.44 @ 114.63 juiced uncorrected

13.549 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected

 

I paid $160 for mine and I noticed that the car idled faster but it is probably something that would only really be noticed at a track.

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

.

 

.

 

Dude, do you know what you are talking about or did you hear that from someone? You've obviously never switched from steel to aluminum. Try it once and then get back to us with that "benefits are minimal" crap.

 

http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm

 

the aluminum drive shaft weighs less and helps reduce rotational weight. It also helps to eliminate parasidic loss from the drivetrain. as far as acceleration...might be able to feel it might not. It ust takes less power to spin the driveshaft, so it adds to RWHP. you gain a few not much.

 

Yes, dude, I do know what I am talking about. Please, no one reiterate the fact that an Al driveshaft reduces rotating mass. We all know that. Now, what I am saying is that although 10 pounds will be shed statically (non-rotational) the moment of inertia (resistance to rotational acceleration) will be similar to that of a steel driveshaft. Since the radius is usually larger of the aluminum driveshaft the equation for a thin ring : .5mr^2=I where I is the moment of inertia has to be larger the bigger the radius. Also, since radius in the previous equation is squared, a small increase in radius equates to a large increase in the moment.

So what does all this mean? It means that unless you are running out of things to modify or your driveshaft is out of balance, save your money for something that really adds HP.

 

hey ws6formula89, Is your sig. correct? Somehow I doubt that your car runs 14.9 @ 110. Unless it is on the bottle, please change your sig now.

------------------
1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI)
T-5 transmission
Edelbrock TES and cat back
Accel manifold
NOS
subframes
jegster torque arm
MSD Digital 6
AFPR
Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock
SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486)
relocated battery
cold air
Hypertech chip
centerforce df clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
a/f gauge
autopower rollbar

12.44 @ 114.63 juiced uncorrected

13.549 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected

 

.

 

uh sorry but the diameter has very little to do with it. the gearing is what matters. It adds momentum to the drivetrain by taking less power to spin it.

And I am sory but your car ran 14's WITH A 'CHARGER there is something seriously wrong. every try lowering tire psi, STICKIER TIRES...I mean hell my s10 blazer can run that...and its a 4.3 V6....My old 75 Z could do that....naturally asperated even.

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Current 3rds...92 3.1 coupe and a 91 T top 305 Past camaro's 74Z28, 2 75 camaro's bretilina and a z28. Past rides HA HA too many to count, at least 20..LOL Kills to date a 3.1 firebird 2 stop lights in a row.
95 Grand Am
Serveral Honda's
a friends 91 Rustang LX(I know its a 4 but he keeps trin')

Planned mods:
Soon coming 3 inch exhaust, 1.6 rockers, High flow 'Verter, and Ignition system. Along with a complete turbo 4.3 swap planned later this year(hoping to get into the 10's..)
Current mods:
Set of Iroc sway bars front and rear..amazing differance, Air box bottom completely removed allowing my K&N to act like an open element filter.
Lower profile tires, 195/55/15 front 205/55/15 rear handles better.
And a 160 deg thermo for a V8(and yes it works just fine)

Sterio Sony CD head unit and 9 band EQ, Boston acutics 4x6 dash, Alpine 3 way 6x9 sail, California sounds active crossover, Kroiiler 600 watt amp powering the 'pines and Bostons, 600 watt Jensen powering 2 Rockord Fosgate RFZ1812 subs. And all this cost less then $575...

 

Carbon fiber driveshaft. About 100 bucks more than an aluminum but stronger, less weight and with aluminum U joits.

 

Well, if you think diameter has nothing to do with it after reading my post then you must not understand the concepts I speak of. Since, you refuse to understand, and keep reiterating the points that I asked "please don't reiterate" then I will not waste my time trying to display your obvious misconceptions.

I think the fact that his car ran 14.9 is not especially good but the fact that it ran 110 is pretty amazing. I just thought that was a misprint and respect anyone who can make a TBI run fast.

 

There was no Z28 in 75

------------------
I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

Sorry my bad it was a 76... I bought the 2 within 3 months of each other and got them confused all the time...

 

Where can I buy a Al driveshaft ? And I need one for a 3.1 v6 also can I use the al driveshaft when I change my 3.1 to a 3.4?

 

Junkyard 84-92 3rd gens, craigslist. And yes, it will fit with any motor as you don't do anything crazy that will effect the transmission's mounting points. 700R4's, T-5's, and LT-1 T-56 swaps all use the same driveshaft (I think TT/A's and 82-83 F-bodies used a different length and aren't compatible). Bring a magnet, if it's steel it will stick. If the magnet doesn't stick you have an aluminum driveshaft on your hands. The RPO code for them was JG1 if you can find VIN codes.

While you're on your quest with your magnet in your pocket, you might as well check Firebird power bulge hoods (RPO T45) and Firebird front crash bumpers(RPO VD6). If you can find aluminum examples of either of those (again, magnet test) ****** them up and make sure they don't get crushed. They're pretty rare, so buy them, sell them to a Firebird guy and help him out and put some $$$ in your pocket.

4th gens had aluminum driveshafts as well and they will fit too, though I believe that they are a different diameter. No idea on weight/ strength differences between the two but either one will be lighter than the steel crap these cars came with.




If you have no luck junkyarding or craigslist'ing, Hawksthirdgen and third gen ranch sell factory aluminum driveshafts for like $125 + shipping. Inland Empire makes an aftermarket one but unless you're making huge power the stock stuff will be more than strong enough and will perform just as well as anything other than carbon fiber ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$).

 

Thanks man I'm going to the junkyard tmrw hopefully I get lucky and can find an al driveshaft.

 

I apologize, but I've got to try: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_of_inertia

It should only take a minute or two to peruse, WADR.

 

Is the swap worthwhile? Check out the results of a dyno test:

http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm

Scroll down a bit in the link to see all the information.

BTW, if you're truly interested in alum, try our site's classifieds. Shafts are advertised there regularly.

JamesC

 

You can gain more hp than that with simple weather change i never did a A-B-A test but my senses tell me it isnt worth it for a mild car unless you have done everything else. Its more worth it for weight reduction than power, as every pound off the car adds up to reduced ET at the track

 

The biggest benefit in a street car is the reduced drivetrain noise and vibration. I've done the swap more than once. Even on a Camaro that didn't do the 55/65 mph shake, it was noticeably smoother.

 

I have the inland empire aluminum one and it made driveline vibrations go away. Was much smoother. Don't know about power because I did a bunch of things for that at the same time, but a 3" aluminum is WAY better than the stock shaft.

 

I would not switch unless A. you have money you would like to spend. B your current driveshaft is defective or C. you get one at a smoken hot deal. I feel for the average third gen owner who just drive the car on the street i would save up for someother parts that make your third gen faster. I bought one because mine was defective and shakes the car at high speed.

 

A aluminum DS is a worthwhile upgrade for a stock car to a highly modded car.
Its not just for the power increase either.

Nice to see a 12yr old thread!!!

 

the bottom line is. yes it makes a diff. in a nut shell. it helps..

the big diff on mine is on the top end freeway blast. 160mph is smooth.
and you can use the review mirrors. as they are clear now

 

When looking for every HP and dropping every possible pound it adds up. I went with an LS1 4th gen aluminum DS like 10 years ago. I didnt notice any real difference but it was one more mod to cross off the list that never ends.

 

ya.. go back a few years. and you can see alot of the.. know it alls. just starting out. with mods on there cars. and asking about stuff...lol. to read some of there post you would think they have been doing this stuff for more then 30 years...lmao... if there that old even

 

Thats natural. Its only idiotic when those who were wrong 10yrs ago, are still spouting the same wrong stuff today.

I look back at some of my early posts under another name and realize that I was silent for a LONG time in regards to technical matters. I did ask alot of questions though, some of the obvious answers to those questions I know now, but back then I wouldn't have made the same conclusions.