Ok so I got my b&m holeshot 3000 in today. Needed a 3000rpm stall because of my comp 284h cam I also bought for my 350. Comp says I need a 3000rpm one. Problem is, it's a non lockup. Evidentally they don't sell their holeshot 3000 that has the lockup. So: (trans is in car but engine is out)

1. Will it be a bad idea to use a non lockup in a daily driver. I will buy a cooler FYI. If not, where can I find a 3000 rpm lockup tc?

2. So I attempted to install it but it says you have to make a few mods to the trans. It wants me to take out the old tcc valve and replace it with the one they supply. Anybody have any experience with this? They want me to remove the oil pump but the aux valve body tube needs to be removed but I'm not sure how to. Is it necessary to do this mod? I have no computer anyways so it won't try to lock up the tcc, so do I really need to go thru all this headache to replace one little valve? If so somebody please help me here. Btw I don't think I can get the car high enough to remoe the whole trans so I have to work on it while it is still in the car. If I could get that aux tube put I could pull the pump out, but I don't see how to and I don't want to break it. I was kinda hoping it wasn't absolutely necessary to replace this valve haha. Any help is greatly appreciated guys.

 

I suggest you return it and get a TCI 3000 with lockup.

 

oops, accidentally clicked on submit while jumping up to answer the phone. Anyway, I tried living with a B&M 2400 that didn't lock, it was sheer hell. Except at stoplights.

 

You will probably get higher tranny temps, and much lower gas mileage without a lockup converter. If I was you I would send it back and buy a 3000 lockup vigilante converter. Its by far the best I have had in my car. I have a 3500 lockup vigilante with 3.90 gears and get 20 mpg on the streets

 

What was so bad about the non lockup besides gas milage. Won't a tran cooler help with the temps? My comp is gone anyways so it didn't lock up before.

Can someone give me a link to the tci and the vig 3000 with lockup. I couldn't ffind either for a 700r4 (87 trans am)

 

yes the external cooler will keep it cooler, but will work harder to keep the higher temps down. If you check out the pro built website, they sell the vigilante converters. I think without the lockup you car runs 250-300 rpm higher, if I am wrong someone please correct me

 

www.summitracing.com sells TCI's StreetFighter 3000, part number 243105, for $499.95 And the Hughes Pro-Street 3000, part number22-30L, also $499.95 for me, I was seeing around 450-550 rpm slip in the highway, and the thing was outright annoying all the time. This was in my '95 Z28 convertible with 2.73:1 axle. My previous experience with B&M was a 2000 stall in a '78 Camaro with TH350 and 3.08:1, it only slipped 100 rpm on the highway. A 12" shell makes for a tight 2000 stall that I loved ALL the time, but a 2400 stall should be a 10.5" shell to tighten it up. a 2400 stall in a 12" shell is pure hell.

 

www.summitracing.com sells TCI's StreetFighter 3000, part number 243105, for $499.95 And the Hughes Pro-Street 3000, part number 22-30L, also $499.95 for me, I was seeing around 450-550 rpm slip on the highway, and the thing was outright annoying all the time. This was in my '95 Z28 convertible with 2.73:1 axle. My previous experience with B&M was a 2000 stall in a '78 Camaro with TH350 and 3.08:1, it only slipped 100 rpm on the highway. A 12" shell makes for a tight 2000 stall that I loved ALL the time, but a 2400 stall should be a 10.5" shell to tighten it up. a 2400 stall in a 12" shell is pure hell.

 

That tci converter said it's for a 4l60e. I'm assuming that can't be used with a 700r4 right? The Hughes said for 700r4, is that a good brand/torque converter? Havnt heard anything about them.

So would I have to make any mods to the trans with the Hughes? I would rather just bolt up a converter and go. I know I need a lockup harness, and probably still a trans cooler.

 

Hughes used to be a hardcore racers-only transmissions and converters company, While TCI has always served the street and mild race guys. The only difference between a pre-LS 4L60E converter and a 700R-4 converter is the material for the lockup clutch, and the 60E requires a more durable, smoother-engaging material. It might add $10 to the price of the converter. Nothing to lose any sleep over. If you use the car 99% street, the TCI seems indicated. If you go to the dragstrip ALOT, the Hughes seems indicated.

 

yeah I plan on daily driving it in the summer and going to the strip at least every other weekend. But just to clarify, that TCI converter can or cannot be used with the 700r4? And any idea if they are bolt in and go converters or are they in need of transmission modifications?

One more question. Is it absolutely necessary to change rear end gears? Will I kill the trans or converter if I leave the stock gears in for a little bit? My cam recommends a gear change but is it a necessity?

 

its not necessary, but will make you car run much better. Since the cam and converter were made for 3.73 or lower gears

 

So can that TCI converter be used with a 700r4 then?