plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys,

I'm having trouble finding a simple parts list to complete the T56 swap. I'm going to be putting a sbc 350 that's too much for my T5 into my 86 IROC in a couple weeks. I'm looking to reuse the bellhousing, entire clutch assembly, pedals, master/slave cylinders. I need to know what else I will need for the swap. From what I understand so far:

-T56 transmission
-Shortened torque arm (can I use a 4th gen arm?)
-Different crossmember (which one?)
-Adapter plate (where can I find one)
-Shortened driveshaft (I have aluminum one from an LS1, this needs to be shortened?)

Any other help would be appreciated...

AlkyIROC

Did you read the FAQ?

TKOPerformance

Swapping to an LT1 T56/bellhousing/hydraulics is a much better route to go. No need to shorten anything. It's all bolt in except for a custom crossmember. Read the FAQ. A lot of guys put a lot of work into it.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I was able to get the entire swap including hydrolics, bellhousing, new clutch, etc. The only question that remains is: I have a two piece rear main, will any flywheel that works with the block I have work with the T56 swap?

I'll see what I can dig up in the FAQ. Thanks guys.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

No, you'll need a custom flywheel (Centerforce, McLeod, etc.) that adapts between the 2pRMS crank and the pull-type T56 clutch.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Hmm... this part is confusing to me. I'm not that familiar with flywheels. Are there any aftermarket applications that I can use that are relatively inexpensive? I've looked on the Centerforce website but $600 is pretty pricey...

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

They are expensive.. $600 seems alot though, are you looking at Aluminum? The Mcleod 460370 is their steel custom flywheel for this app.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-460370/

$470.

You see them pop up on the classifieds every now and then.. I picked up a centerforce here for $200, then sold it again here for $200 after my Street-twin pkg came with a FW..

TKOPerformance

I'd say stay steel and stay close to stock weight too. You are looking in the $400 range new, but like was said you can find them used. It's the only problem with this swap, and only if you have a 2 piece RMS. McLeod probably has the best prices going. I'm running one of their aluminum units in my car, but I wish I'd gotten a steel one that was a bit heavier.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Why do you want a heavier one?

I've got a steel one in my setup, but I always wonder if I'd have been happier with a lighter one.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

The flywheel's weight serves the purpose of holding rotational momentum. When starting from a stop, or in between shifts, the inertia will help keep the motor at speed and better rev-match the engine and trans.

I too have an aluminum FW and wish I had a steel one for all the street driving. With the aluminum you have to keep feathering the throttle from a stop to keep the engine turning while you slip the clutch. Aluminum should be left for track-only cars IMHO..

mike

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I'm currently looking at the Centerforce 700107 as my option. $389 at summit. It hurts the wallet, but this whole show will come to a screeching halt without it.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

I read through the sticky thread "My T56 Swap Thread" and found most of my answers there. However, there is still some question as to the hydrolics and pedals. Will there be drilling/cutting necessary to put the new hydrolics in? I've never replaced them, and never have on a car before. Is this a difficult procedure? Also, the pedal assembly. It seems that the common consensus is that the third gen pedals work, however the clutch engages much further towards the top of the throw of the clutch than if the 4th gen pedals are used. I will be getting the 4th gen pedals with this swap, would it be worth the extra time and neckache to use them? Thanks for your help guys.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

Not hard to do.. My install pics for the pedals start here:

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28.../DCP_3379.html

I used the 4thgen pedals and cutoff the gas pedal, that was the only issue.. Take the brake booster off to install/drill for the pedals/master, it makes it alot easier.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Keep in mind I'm going from T5 to T56, will the existing hole for the master cylinder not be in the correct spot?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, got mixed up with the other T56 swaps. The existing master cyl firewall hole should work with the 4thgen setup.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, I appreciate all your help. I'll be sure to have more questions in the days getting closer to the swap.

TKOPerformance

As 85MikeTPI said, the flywheel holds inertia, which directly affects how fast the engine looses momentum when you stop feeding it fuel. My aluminum flyhweel would actually stall the motor when I pushed the clutch in when I first got the combo running. I was able to adjust the idel speed, and reset the IAC steps and that problem has gone away. However, you do have to dilligently heel toe when downshifting and learn to finess your takeoffs or you get bucking, stalling, and other embaressment. Stay steel and stay within 3-5 lbs. of stock.

Your existing holes in the firewall will work fine. Save the hardware that mounts the master and the slave as you can reuse it with the LT1 hydraulics.

I have heard of some people having issues with the 4th gen pedals. Since you already have the 3rd gen ones I would see no reason to change. I used 3rd gen pedals sourced from a local wrecking yard and have no issue with clutch release, etc. The clutch you use will also make a difference in where the release point is, so I always take that with a grain of salt anyway because there are so many options and no one has experimented with them all. If youb have the 4th gen pedals you could always swap them in later if you want to experiment with them, but for the initial install it's one less thing to worry about.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

Very good advice, I appreciate it. I will be sticking with a steel flywheel, specifically the Centerforce #700107. It's one of the few options I have at this point, but seems to cost less than the others, is steel, and will enable me to use the T56 without a problem.

I figured the hydrolics would bolt in without problem, thanks for clearing that up. I will also use the pedals I already have for now like you said. Every clutch is different, and I assume that's what most people feel when they describe how it's different.

plasmeh

iTrader: (10)

When I go to get a new pilot bearing/throwout bearing, should I ask for one for a 95 LT1?

TKOPerformance

The throwout bearing is part of the pressure plate on an LT1, and you will be using an LT1 clutch. The pilot is the same as any GM pilot in use for 40 years.