I am contemplating taking my T56 out of my 89 and putting a 700R4 back in it. Its got the Ram Jet 430 motor in it with 3.27s right now.

I am scared of hitting the nitrous with the manual tranny, thats why Im considering this.

Should I go with auto, or keep my T56? What do you think would run better? (I already know which one would be the most fun!) Anyone with a possible trade? If youve got a stout 700R4 setup (tranny/converter, etc) I might consider a trade for the entire T56 setup.

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L98, 3.27 9-bolt, Hooker shorty headers, custom 2.5inch Y-pipe, no cat, 3inch 2chamber flowmaster, JET AFPR, Ported MAF, Best ET: 13.86 @100mph. 1.99 60'
17 inch ROH "ZS" wheels. 17x8.5(front) and 17x9.5 (rear). Firestone Firehawk SZ50s. 245/45/zr17s and 275/40/zr17s. T56

On the way... Radar Blue 89 Formula, T56, Ram Jet 430, Ram Air, 17inch ROHs.

 

easy..... give me the T-56, ill give you my 4L60 tranny... and we're even....


but yea, i think your right, runnin nitrous in my mind would be better with auto...

Gluck.. and tell me when i can pick up my tranny....


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91 FireBird 305 V-8
Edelbrock Catback, Custom Alarm. Fourth Gen Console. i have six cupholders. all for starbucks!
Go|)Created The Earth, And Then Turned Up The Bass.
Here's My Audio Install!

"Honda's FOR ME TO POOP ON!" -Triumph...

 

hey,that's one helluva trade!man,get yourself a ripper shifter and don't worry about it!you can pick up one of the switches that mounts on the throttle and it only operates when you have it floored.enjoy the ride!later

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"Let's get to it,well let's do it!"

 

Why the hell are you scared to hit n20 with a stick shift?

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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI),T-5,Edelbrock TES and cat back,Accel manifold
NOS,subframes,jegster torque arm,MSD Digital 6
AFPR,Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock,SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486),relocated battery,cold air,Hypertech chip,centerforce df,clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
autopower rollbar

12.33 @ 114.83 juiced uncorrected

13.510 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected

 

That safest route would be to use a throttle switch as HARDWORK said, and use an "always closed" switch on the clutch pedal. It'll open the circuit when the clutch is pushed in.

That way you have to have the throttle floored, and your clutch up for the nitrous to flow. Then you can power shift without the nitrous spinning the motor to 35k+ RPM while the clutch is in.

AJ

 

put the 700r4 back in and send me the t56, i'll pay for postage

 

Well, Ive already got a ripper shifter installed. The thing that bugs me is the 6000RPM fuel cut-off on the Ram Jet's computer. I want to shift at about 5800RPM and when you power shift, no matter how quick you do it, the revs will go up a couple hundred RPM at which point the fuel is cutt off and the juice isnt (very bad).

I like the idea of rigging up a switch to the clutch pedal though (when the clutch is depressed, the juice is cut off).

Im still torn between the auto/manual deal though. I will still consider offers on a good (i mean good) 700 with good converter. Im willing to give up the T56, clutch, B&M Ripper, thirdgen crossmember, hydraulics, pedals, speedo calibration box, etc.

Any offers?

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L98, 3.27 9-bolt, Hooker shorty headers, custom 2.5inch Y-pipe, no cat, 3inch 2chamber flowmaster, JET AFPR, Ported MAF, Best ET: 13.86 @100mph. 1.99 60'
17 inch ROH "ZS" wheels. 17x8.5(front) and 17x9.5 (rear). Firestone Firehawk SZ50s. 245/45/zr17s and 275/40/zr17s. T56

On the way... Radar Blue 89 Formula, T56, Ram Jet 430, Ram Air, 17inch ROHs.

 

I have a 700R4 that was rebuilt with all B&M parts less than two thousand miles ago. I would be willing to trade it and a B&M megashifter. I dont have a performance torque converter but I might be able to throw a little extra money your way for that. If you are interested send me an email.

 

I'm just about to swap to a T5, but I'm more than willing to do a T56 if you're interrested in what I've got (doubtful).

I've got an almost-good '85 700R4 and a slipping '90 4L60. The 4L60 would make a good core for a hi-po rebuild. I'd be willing to toss both transmissions your way plus cash for the complete T56 setup.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Joe, why not get the rev limiter increased? Pity it isn't the SD 7730, that would be a 10 second change.

 

I seem to recall that somebody like Arizona S&M was doing ecu updates to remove or up the rev limiter for Ramjet motors. I think there's a kit for adding an O2 sensor in there also.
Anyhow, Unless ya got a properly BUILT 700R4, you'll probably end up pulling it back out shortly.

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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-56/3.70 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.

 

There is almost not point in owning an automatic sports car that you drive on the steet. Sticks are SO much more fun and autos you just sit there and press the gas but if you really get into the auto thing you can manualy shift it, but that is still no where near as fun.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

Ahh, to be young and insane again

We over 35 types have had our years of rowing back and forth to the grocery store, et al, and by this time an automatic with OD looks mighty appetizing!