what is the absolute best converter ?
quality


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305 small block chevy: ported heads, 1 3/4 slp headers, ported rpm intake, 1.6 roller rockers, performance valvejob, titanium retainers, compcams conical valvesprings, lpe camshaft, carter 600 carb, carter electric fuel pump, 3.23 gears.

[This message has been edited by 305sbc (edited December 12, 2001).]

 

that's kind of a retarded question...

different stalls are optimal for different combos.

in reading your sig, for your vehicle, it greatly depends on what your cam specs are.

BTW, 1 3/4" headers are far too big for a 305.

 

is that right?
my combo is in my signature obviously.
cam specs 213/219 .462/.470 114LSA
the 1 3/4 headers bolt right on no problem.
I meant best as in quality.

 

Are you asking what stall speed is the best? In which case, it does depend on your setup.

Or are you asking what torque converter is the best? In which case, I'd say the Precision Industries Vigilante is one of the best.

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89 IROC-SuperRammed 355 w/ AFR 190's and LPE 219/219 cam-http://www.geocities.com/buckeyeroc

[This message has been edited by BuckeyeROC (edited December 12, 2001).]

 

i don't mean the headers won't physically bolt on, they will. But you are actually hurting yourself performance-wise, because there will be minimal backpressure..

with the converters, you generally get what you pay for. The vigilante, etc., cost a bundle of money, but definitely have their advantages. a dirt cheap no-name isn't gonna perform as well or last either.

with that cam, and what i'm assuming are stock gm heads ported, you don't need to go nuts with the converter. probably 2000-2400 is your sweet spot.



[This message has been edited by TheWraith (edited December 12, 2001).]

 

What this board needs is an automated system that reaches out and slaps anybody that posts anything about backpressure being a good thing.

It's not a lack of "backpressure" that reduces low-speed torque, it's excessive flow area that slows down the exhaust pulse speed so that scavaging is reduced. As revs increase, the effect is reduced.

A higher stalling converter will help get the engine up into the RPM band where the larger primaries are less of an issue.

 

The best stall speed converter for acceleration is the one that actually stalls at peak engine torque, or just below that rpm.
Assuming you can put the increased torque to the ground.
The best stall converter for your car depends on your actual
combination, how you use your car, and how deep your pockets are. Generally you get what you pay for.

 

What this board needs is an automated system that reaches out and slaps anybody that posts anything about backpressure being a good thing.

It's not a lack of "backpressure" that reduces low-speed torque, it's excessive flow area that slows down the exhaust pulse speed so that scavaging is reduced. As revs increase, the effect is reduced.

A higher stalling converter will help get the engine up into the RPM band where the larger primaries are less of an issue.



Halejulah

 

Baaaahhhhaaaahahahaahahahahaaaa

 

To get this combination to work its best , I would use the 9.5" lockup A.C.T. 2,600-2,800 rpm stall with this small motor. This TC is almost identical to the Vigilante, but at a lesser cost ($545.00). (Warranty and stall change similar). If the primary tubes are slightly to large for the engine, you can lose a little low end torque. You state that the cam has 114 degree lobe centers, is the cam setup or ground 4 degrees advanced? This will help low end torque somewhat if it is. The exhaust system to work right needs to be free flowing, with a minimum amount of bends and if there some they need to be true mandrel bends. If it is a dual exhaust you will need a balance tube (a must) to help improve low end torque and reduce noise some. The idea behind exhaust systems is to create a vacuum at the exhaust port at all times (almost impossible). The Tri-Y (4-2-1) setup comes close if done right! It will out perform a 4 tube setup to about 5,600-5,800 rpm, after that the 4 tube will pull away. In some applications (if you are not running a stick and going to shift at 7,000 rpm) the Tri-Y will run close to open headers in ET & MPH in the quarter mile if setup properly. I could go into much more on this, but I won't as of now, as I have spent some time working on the dyno and track testing intake and exhaust systems in the 1970's & early 1980's to see what would work best and why. In this case the stall needs to be inreased somewhat to get the best performance (torque) with this size of engine.
I Hope This Helps!!!