I have about two grand i could spend on my car without feeling too bad. I was thinking about using a little of it to get my car painted and some suspension parts or some other upgrades. But then i realized my car was leaking a little transmission fluid (i think because it was overfilled) and after i drive it around for about 20 minutes it feels like its slipping a little coming outta first but its only after i drive it around for a little while. And it looks like my rear main seal is leaking slowly :/. I want to get these problems fixed, and figured if i had to get the trans rebuilt i would get a few parts put in it while it was shift kit that kinda thing. The problem is this is my only car and i have a weird schedule and no time or experience to even pull the trans (so id probably have to find rides). Would it be cheaper to just find one thats been built a little or get just get mine rebuilt?(id also prefer to have the car back asap) O and if i get mine rebuilt what are some parts should i buy as far as the shift kit and any other parts i would need? (if im getting this done i want to do it right)

 

Telling you now 700r4 is not an easy task to rebuild and just putting a shift kit in it won't help if it has slipping issues. I would suggest getting a reman or Have a transmission shop fix it. IMO

 

yeah thats what i meant lol, i was just wondering about the shift kit and any other parts i should buy if its already being rebuilt.

 

I can get a rebuilt 700r4 with a shift kit for $550 and my tranmission. Should i get a 2000 stall also or not?

 

Got the new trans in but now we cant seem to get the tv cable adjustment right. On top of that i cant seem to get it to go into overdrive. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I could use some help, i think my cable my may be bad i had a few problems with it not downshifting from 4th sometimes when i got on it with the old trans. Every time i make a cable adjustment it seems inconsistent, i tried the stock adjustment but that had the car shifting out of first at 32, after a little sliding back and forth i had it shifting at 20ish but the car still wouldnt go into 4th. I got back in it a few hours later and it was back to trying to shift around 30 so i played with it a little more and this time and it ended up short shifting weirdly into first at like 10 but now it goes into 4th and doesnt rev as high to get into the other gears but the spot the cables in now was shifting it at like 22 when i had it there earlier. Im wondering if since it never worked perfectly if its not the right size cable for the car or maybe its just worn out. Any input would be nice i need to get this worked out before i burn up my new transmission

 

A replacement cable isn't very expensive, consider it cheap insurance.

You shouldn't have to adjust the cable for shift points. Have you checked out:

http://www.tvmadeez.com/

 

Yeah i read it last night and kinda understood it lol. Would it just be a normal replacement cable or what? It's got an edelbrock 600 carb on it some one told it might be the wrong cable for my car idk much about these cables so would i just find any tv cable replacement for our cars or are there different lengths, if so which should i get? thanks. O and when it was shifting at 30ish and sometimes 20ish when i slowed back down to a stop it would start me in second. Thanks for the post

 

That may be your problem IF you don't have the proper TV cable bracket for the edelbrock carb. The bracket is specific in that it has to pull the cable through its full range from idle to WOT. You may be able to look up the bracket on-line and compare it to yours. A search of JEGS showed:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...v+bracket+carb

So there appear to be several options.

 

Is there just one size tv cable and different brackets? I won't get to look at the bracket till tomorrow but it seems ok and has worked to adjust it before. Whats the chance that my cables just shot, because the adjustments seem inconsistent like i'll have it in one spot and the play with it and move it around a bit and when i get back to the same spot its shifting differently then it was before in that same spot. Thanks for the help.

 

How much would it hurt to drive back to the mechanic adjusted wrong about 15ish miles away. And are there different size cables or just different brackets? Sorry to talk to myself i just need help asap and i need to know what to ask for a cable for, the car was originally fuel injected and it now has an edelbrock carbed 350 so can i just get a cable for what the car originally was or what? Thanks for any help sorry i just don't want to destroy the $1000 dollars i just spent because of a lack of knowledge.

 

The cable could be sticking, but if you can feel it slide easily and retract from the tension on the valve in the tranny, it's probably good. If it otherwise worked fine before I'd suspect the problem's in the trans.

Adjusted wrong, a trip around the block can kill the trans. If you're unsure a tow is only 10% of a rebuild.

 

Lol that was the asap part :/ i already drove it this morning (most of the way in first). Summit tech said if i used the correcter http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-700203/ it was supposed to be used with this bracket http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-376700/ so i hope i havent damaged my transmission already and i hope this corrects my problem. Do you guys think that will do it? O and i got another cable too the plastic piece on the other one broke this morning too.

 

It's not going to hurt it in such short term as long as it was atleast hooked up and pulling some, it just makes funky shifts.
You should've put the corect pieces on to give the new transmission the best possible chance from the get go-that way you wouldn't have to wonder. Just my 2 cents.
BTW $500 doesn't get you much on the transmission world. $1000 should've maybe got you something if the trans tech was good. What went into the build? In other words -the build sheet please-

 

Thanks and your right but i didn't know i needed a corrector until now i just thought that the we couldnt adjust the cable right. I didn't know until this weekend that i needed those parts to make it work, probably damaged my old trans having it set wrong before. Thats why i was in so much of a rush to get answers on what i needed because i had no idea but someone from another thread told me i needed that corrector then summit told me i needed that bracket to work with the corrector. Cept driving it home i let the car sit until i got some answers i hope this does the trick.

 

BTW $500 doesn't get you much on the transmission world. $1000 should've maybe got you something if the trans tech was good. What went into the build? In other words -the build sheet please-[/quote]

Probably just a stock rebuild but its from a highly recommended shop, every time i said transmission all i heard was Cook's (the shop/guys name). He said he only uses 700r4 from camaros, so i got a rebuilt trans, shift kit and a 2000 stall, for my old trans and cash. Its kinda cool to think my trans might end up under another camaro one day instead of being junked. But i don't have a build sheet sorry.

 

a camaro transmission is probably nothing more than a corvette servo. See if they atleast upgraded the servo and reaction shell. two areas to start at for any quality 700r4 build as the corvette servo gives the band approx %63 more holding power-a quality "BEAST" shell will get rid of the achilles heal of the transmission to prevent stripping or breaking because it is made thicker and stronger metal.

 

Thanks i'll see if i can get any information on it, but right now im just worried about getting every thing working right.

 

the t.v. valve in the valve body is where I'd check. not the plunger the cable pulls that you feel, or see with the pan off, but the internal valve the one a builder generally knows about. you might be able to free it up by removing the 1-2 accumulator housing, pulling the pin on the plunger and removing the aluminum sleeve and plunger with spring, and using a strong pocket magnet to free up a stuck valve. Or if it is stuck remove the v.b. and replace it with a upgraded valve that has a return spring to help prevent sticking in the bottom of the v.b. bore.

 

Its still at the mechanics, and when i test drove it most of the time i would stop after it shifted it would try to start in second gear. Could this be a problem with the cable or is it in the trans itself? I replaced the cable and bought the summit corrector http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...um700203&dds=1 and http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...ci376700&dds=1 a bracket (summit tech said that it was necessary for the corrector). The mechanic said they had to "modify" the bracket so it would work so idk. They're pulling the trans and taking it back to the builder to get it checked out i hope it gets worked out soon, it was supposed to be a two day job and i've been out of a car for over a week now. What would cause it to try and start in second from a dead stop?