newely installed ford 8.8 but the wheels are alittle off in the wheel wells.

I just installed the new UMI dual spherical rod end LCAs (very nice btw) for adjustability but im off in one wheel well to another. How would you align the wheels so they are dead straight on the car? would i have to go to an alignment shop and have them do it?

ive already got the rear centered pretty well with my UMI adjustable panhard bar but now i want to get the wheels lined up. they arent that far off and i cant even seem to see it with my eyes but the numbers tell me they are off alil.

 

Don't go by the wheel openings. They're not the same size. Even side to side with the diff centering is different. The diff pinion should be in line with the tranny yoke. This doesn't mean the wheels will be under the fenders equally. Third gens are not symmetrical from side to side.

Unless you really screwed up attaching the brackets on the diff, measure the length of the LCA and adjust both to the same length.

To check wheelbase, the simplest way is to use a plum bob. Drop a line from the front ball joints or spindles. Drop a line at the center rear axle ends. Measure the distance on each from front to back. This will get you close. There are very few points from side to side on the car that are the same. Chassis points are your best bet.

For an exact measurement, you need to put the car on an alignment rack.

 

ok i gotcha... well i kno the brackets are prob 1/4-1/2" off of eachother bc i was running non adjustable tubular LCAs that i made a long time back to the stock length. i then took measurements of the wheel wells from the wheels and thats how i figure its off.

im prob just gona eye it up and then take it to a 4wheel alignment since i still dont have the car the way i want it with the cut 5664 moogs and moog 5665s... i got the from nice low and its how i want it but i cant seem to get enough in the back lol. i believed i removed about a full coil up front and off the rear, i also removed the rear spring isolator and put a rubber carb fuel hose around it. when i get it to where i want it then ill take it for a full alignment.

 

I'm confused.....You talk about brackets, yet make no mention of any in your initial post. Even if you out RLCARBs on, I don't see what could be 1/2" off. Are the talking about the brackets to hold a Ford rear end under your car?

When I put my UMI stuff on, I laid the trailing arm down, run the stock bolts through their holes, set the UMI piece on top of that & adjusted its length until they matched. So that the bolts slid in & out of both easily, no binding.

1 trailing arm at a time, matching each now arm to the stock one that came out of the side the new one was going in to.

I've had no problems with bad tracking of the rear. No alignment problems, nothing.

 

by brackets i was referring to the stock brackets that were welded to the tubes of my 9bolt... which i hacked off and put on my ford 8.8... i got the correct angles but for some reason the wheels are not centered in the wheel. and each wheel has a different measurement to the edge of the wheel wheel. I was using stock length tubular LCAs but now im using the double rod ended UMI LCAs and i want to correct the issue. i drive the car now and it does turn on its own nore does it ride differently. i just want it to be right so i dont have tire wear problems.

my issues might be that i cut more off the stock rear "brackets" when i was taking them off which means that each side could be different than the other... causing an offset from each wheel to the other.

stephen also now much did u get your rear springs for? im hacking my 5665s and already took off a solid coil and i still dont have the drop i want. eibach sells custom ones for like wat 50$ a pair? wat are the specs of your rear springs. i want to get a matched set with the ride height i want. wats your ground to fender edge length?

my 315s tucked up real nice with 6.8" backspacing but i want this thing to handle. so my cut moog 5664s should have around 850-900lbin rate. and i was thinking 150-175lb rear rate with a 1.5-1.75" drop over stock but im unsure bc the moog 5665s are taller than the stockers. my car handles insane already and its not setup for drag racing so now i want alil lower in the rear but i dnt want to keep hacking off the rear spring too much

 

I got my springs with the weight jacks & the specs of my springs are in my sig.

 

yea but how much are the lowered in the rear compared to stock? is that a 10" free height? linear spring? what are the stock springs pigtale one end and tangenale other?

 

I don't understand your first question.....



Yes...Free height.