need a step by step tutioral on how to remove my 350 turbo tranny im going to atempt to do it on my own i dont have alot of tools but just your basic ratchet and socket set hydrlic jack and jack stands etc i wanna remove the tranny without lifting the engine out pics and videos would help alot

 

BEFORE I SAY ANYTHING: This is a very difficult task no matter how easy it may sound. It will take all day (or maybe two days) and it would help to have an extra hand, as well as an oxy-acetylene torch, an impact wrench and powerful compressor for it, and a very good socket set. Also, it would be much better to use a transmission jack. Trust me. I had one roll off of a regular hydraulic jack and break stuff and I lost a lot of fluid... not pretty.

Well, I don't have any pics or anything, but first you're going to need to jack your car WAY UP in the air. First thing you'll need to do is get the drive shaft out. Just go to the back and unbolt and remove it from the u-joints from the rear of the car, unbolt anything else that connects to the driveshaft (if there is anything else, I don't remember) and pull the driveshaft back to get it out of the back of the transmission. You'll want to have a pan there too to catch any fluid that falls out. Then, remove the dust cover from the transmission. Unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter, there are three bolts and you will have to roll the flex plate and torque converter around each time to get to the next one, which is a difficult task in itself. Your best bet would be to get them by the oil filter where there's a big enough gap to get an impact wrench on them. Get a jack under the transmission and unbolt it from the transmission mount and drop the crossmember from the frame. There's six bolts that hold the transmission to the back of the engine, you can get four of them (two on each side) from underneath the car and the other two from the top, but you'll probably have to take your distributor cap off to get to them. After that's done, remove the linkage, speedometer cable, TV cable, dipstick, transmission cooler lines, and any other things hooked on the transmission, you may have to drop it slightly to get to some of them, but after that it's just a matter of getting the transmission out from under the car.

I hope this helped, but I would strongly advise to not even attempt this by yourself or without the proper tools stated at the beginning of this post, but either way, good luck.

 

 

thanks i hope this helps me im not a beginner mech or what real mech would call me a part taker lol im pretty novice just never did a tranny job nor engine removal job and im thinking sometime down the line im go have to do if this is wat i wanna do y not do it to my project car so im not worry about the time if it take a week it donest matter to me and about the tool is air tools needed or would it just help out ALOT thats wat others are telling? and do i lift both ends of the car up or just the front? cause all i have is a pair of ramps and someone told me dont use jack stand for a job like this

 

always use jack stands. Never rely on just ramps.

You will need both ends of the car up in the air. Place two jack stands under the rear of the car, just in front of where the lower control arm bolts to the body. Place two more jack stands under each front a-arm. Then you will have to use your jack for the transmission.

People have used ramps for years, I know, but they are not safe. Good quality jackstands are what you should use.

 

ok @ koopa i have the job almost done i have the car up on bricks and a set of jack stands in the front for extra security i have removed the drive3shaft,starter,unblot the converter from the flywheel, i believe thats it OH and i took out the dipstick now all i believe is left its the bell house bolts and the cross member bolts if i spelled that correctly i believe i should next place my jack with a block of wood on to the tranny would i put it directly under the tranny pan? to unblot the bolts on the croosmember? onces that is done if im correct well the engine and the tranny tilt? if well it damage my dist cap?ive read u must take that off to prevent damage just wanna double check and if im corre3ct the next thing will be to unblot the bell housing blots right? my book says start at the top then go to the bottom and once these is done i will have successful remove the tranny right?

 

Changed my Th350 last summer by myself, coming out and down is easy, going back in is hard, it was one heavy SOB.

What helpped was using some long bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins to slide it up and in to get reg bolts started, also I used ratchet straps to help get it up in the air, as alone, it had to lift it up enough to get a jack under.

Eat your wheetie that day......

 

Sounds like you got it coming out.The block of wood will work just fine under your tranny pan. But be ready to support engine also with something, You dont have to pull dizzy out but you must support engine when you lower the tranny or it will break the dizzy. Just lower the trans enough to get the bellhousing bolts out. you will need about a 2ft extension and swivel to make it easy, and dont forget your trans lines located above the dipstick hole.

 

@dusty where would i put the support for the engine? and if i need 2 how would i get the dis cap off and just so im correct ill need to jacks 1 for the tranny and 1 for the engine? and do i need the real good heavy duty jacks or could i use the cheap advance auto 20 30 bucks?

 

Just block up the engine under the oil pan by the drain plug, with something real sturdy you dont want it to fall back when you pry the tranny off. A phillips screwdriver for dizzy cap,but if you,re careful it should be ok. I just used the standard cheap floor jack but then again it was,nt my first trans to pull out. Get the best you can and make it work. The main thing is blocking everything up so it will be stable.

 

No reason to hold the motor up, long as you remove the dizz cap so it doesn't break off, let ti hang as low as it wants.

done a dozen or so on all different cars, and always let the engne hang as low as it will go, makes the job much easier.

long as you member to remove the dizzy cap
[which I didn't on my V6 but it didn't break.]