Clutch Help
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: ON, Canada
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 5-Speed Standard
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Clutch Help
I am fully aware of the search feature but have been unable to find results.
Tomorrow I am replacing my clutch for the first time in my life.
I am very mechanically inclined, however I want to know what I'm getting into.
Can anyone who's done this give me a step by step?
Thanks a lot!
- 1987 Camaro 2.8, 5-speed
Tomorrow I am replacing my clutch for the first time in my life.
I am very mechanically inclined, however I want to know what I'm getting into.
Can anyone who's done this give me a step by step?
Thanks a lot!
- 1987 Camaro 2.8, 5-speed
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Clutch Help
I've done it so many times I have lost count. I just recently did an engine/trans rebuild on my son's 87, and even more recently a T5 swap on my 88 GTA.
- Raise the car and support it on jack stands
- Remove the torque arm and driveshaft (use a spare yoke or one of those plastic plugs to keep the fluid from leaking out the tranny tail).
- Disconnect all wire pigtails from the transmission.
- Disconnect the speedometer cable (if applicable).
- Remove the nut that holds the transmission mount to the crossmember
- Support the transmission with a jack, and remove the 4 bolts securing the crossmember to the frame.
- Remove the crossmember.
- Since your car is V6, it may have a counterweight installed along with the torque arm mount. You'll probably want to remove this before trying to remove the transmission.
- Support the rear of the engine with a jack (under the oilpan).
- Remove the 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing.
- The transmission is relatively light (~75 pounds) and you can muscle it out, with or without help, or ease it out on a jack and remove it.
- Remove the two bolts that secure the slave cylinder to the bellhousing and just let it dangle off to the side.
- Remove the bellhousing to engine block bolts and remove the bellhousing.
- Remove the throwout bearing from the clutch fork.
- Remove the six pressure plate to flywheel bolts slowly and carefully. It helps to support the clutch assembly to keep it from falling.
- Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Remove the six flywheel to crankshaft bolts, and carefully lower the flywheel.
- Replace the pilot bushing. You can either remove it with a slide hammer tool, or pack it with grease and drive it out hydraulically, and then drive the new one in using a large socket as a punch.
- New flywheel and pressure plate bolts are recommended.
- Resurface or replace the flywheel. Do not re-use the old flywheel without resurfacing. Torque bolts to specs.
- Install a new clutch disc and pressure plate, using an alignment tool or an old input shaft to position the disc, and take care not to install the disc backwards.
- Tighten the pressure plate bolts slowly and evenly. Torque to specs.
- Re-install the bellhousing.
- Install a new throwout bearing in the clutch fork, and make sure that the bearing floats in the fork, as opposed to attaching the bearing to the clips.
- Carefully raise the transmission and reinstall it. You should use a jack or have a friend assist, unless you happen to have the strength of a gorilla. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it to seat against the bellhousing. DO NOT FORCE IT into place.
- The rest is just the reverse of disassembly.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: ON, Canada
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 5-Speed Standard
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Clutch Help
I've done it so many times I have lost count. I just recently did an engine/trans rebuild on my son's 87, and even more recently a T5 swap on my 88 GTA.
- Raise the car and support it on jack stands
- Remove the torque arm and driveshaft (use a spare yoke or one of those plastic plugs to keep the fluid from leaking out the tranny tail).
- Disconnect all wire pigtails from the transmission.
- Disconnect the speedometer cable (if applicable).
- Remove the nut that holds the transmission mount to the crossmember
- Support the transmission with a jack, and remove the 4 bolts securing the crossmember to the frame.
- Remove the crossmember.
- Since your car is V6, it may have a counterweight installed along with the torque arm mount. You'll probably want to remove this before trying to remove the transmission.
- Support the rear of the engine with a jack (under the oilpan).
- Remove the 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the bellhousing.
- The transmission is relatively light (~75 pounds) and you can muscle it out, with or without help, or ease it out on a jack and remove it.
- Remove the two bolts that secure the slave cylinder to the bellhousing and just let it dangle off to the side.
- Remove the bellhousing to engine block bolts and remove the bellhousing.
- Remove the throwout bearing from the clutch fork.
- Remove the six pressure plate to flywheel bolts slowly and carefully. It helps to support the clutch assembly to keep it from falling.
- Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Remove the six flywheel to crankshaft bolts, and carefully lower the flywheel.
- Replace the pilot bushing. You can either remove it with a slide hammer tool, or pack it with grease and drive it out hydraulically, and then drive the new one in using a large socket as a punch.
- New flywheel and pressure plate bolts are recommended.
- Resurface or replace the flywheel. Do not re-use the old flywheel without resurfacing. Torque bolts to specs.
- Install a new clutch disc and pressure plate, using an alignment tool or an old input shaft to position the disc, and take care not to install the disc backwards.
- Tighten the pressure plate bolts slowly and evenly. Torque to specs.
- Re-install the bellhousing.
- Install a new throwout bearing in the clutch fork, and make sure that the bearing floats in the fork, as opposed to attaching the bearing to the clips.
- Carefully raise the transmission and reinstall it. You should use a jack or have a friend assist, unless you happen to have the strength of a gorilla. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it to seat against the bellhousing. DO NOT FORCE IT into place.
- The rest is just the reverse of disassembly.
I'll have it back up and runnin in no time

Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Clutch Help
I forgot something: You have to remove the shifter plate, lower shift boot, and the shifter before attempting to remove the transmission.
It should be between #9 and #10
It should be between #9 and #10
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 268
Likes: 3
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 1990 Iroc Z
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Re: Clutch Help
Is it easier to install the clutch and flywheel before you put the engine in? I have a engine to put in the car, just waiting to get those 2 parts, i was wondering if it would be just as easy if i put in the engine now and just drop the trans to put on the clutch and flywheel?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: ON, Canada
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 5-Speed Standard
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Clutch Help
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Clutch Help
Is it easier to install the clutch and flywheel before you put the engine in? I have a engine to put in the car, just waiting to get those 2 parts, i was wondering if it would be just as easy if i put in the engine now and just drop the trans to put on the clutch and flywheel?
There is a little trick to getting it in that way, but I and others here have done it.
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