I have a bolt on 1992 Z28, vortec heads, intake, ported slp runners, ported plenum, 52mm throttle body, full exhaust.


its a 350 car with a 700R4 I found a vig. 9.5" converter 3600 RPM. Is that to much? I know this cars make all there power down low.

 

I think its alittle steep. I used 3600 on a 6500+ rpm 383 stealth ram motor where it made peak torque at 4000 rpm and carried well to 5000. 3600 matched that well.

I'd look more for a 2800-3000 for that setup if you want real good launches at the track. 2400-2600 for more street if you arent used to driving a stalled setup.

 

I see, the car will eventually have a D1sc on it and a stealth ram and AFR vortec 190's It's a pure street car goes to the track about 2 times a year.

Also I am new to stalled autos. Never driven one before. It's hard to find a good one for TPI cause everyone else is telling me go big.

 

TPI doesnt make much power above 4500 rpm. Blower will help. Ported stuff with SLP's will pull to 5500 but these cars make nice torque in the 2800-3600 rpm range, so keeping converter pretty tight helps. I'd still go around 2800 for a mostly street car that sees track only few times ever.

3600 not spec'd out right will feel very loose. I have a 3200 on my LS1 car and it feels much looser at part throttle, giving the perception that its a much higher stall and the motor feels abit lazy. Once you get on it, it stalls inthe 3200 range and takes off so its doing its job, just could be done abit better to get the low end feel better.

I have roughly a 4200 stall in my turbo car and it acts like a much tighter 3000-ish stall. Abit tighter than my old 3600. So the converter can be designed to be pretty tight during normal conditions and still give high stall speeds when on the throttle.

 

Well how do I tell if it's gonna be tight or loose? Should I get a locking or non locking one?


For what I have now and what I plan to do what should I go with? Brand? Locking or non.

 

I have a 2500 stall in my 99 LS1 Trans Am and drive it everyday with no problems. If its a car you drive often and in traffic I would recommend a low stall and trans cooler, well trans cooler either way. I dont see that a high stall is needed unless you have a big cam, and then its not going to be much fun on the streets.

 

It will be cammed eventually but not for a long time.

 

Cant really tell just by buying one unless its spec'd to your exact combination. Theres different stall torque ratios and such that can be factored in to make a converter feel different. Different diameters also play a roll in efficiency.

YOu could just order one from a good custom converter company, tell them exactly what you have going on, and it should do everything you ask it to do. Now that will be spec'd to that combo of parts so when you change stuff, you may alter the torque curve and thus change the way the converter behaves.

 

What about locking or non locking?

 

for 700r4, definately need lockup style.

 

Ok thanks, I know nothing about converters. I'm new too this game.