Hey all,

So while I'm currently running a T5 in my car, I eventually want to swap it out in favor of a T56 (when I have something better than an L03 under the hood). At one point, my car was stuck for a little bit, because something in the clutch pedal linkage snapped apart. Turned out to be the clutch master rod to pedal retainer clip. Had a guy put in a new one for me, but it wouldn't hold. He took another look at it, and discovered that the threading for it was worn out, and my options were to either fabricate something to hold it up, or buy a new pedal assembly.

While rigging it up that way has worked for a while now (using a metal bushing) *knock on wood*, the fact the pedal still squeaks upon pressing doesn't exactly reassure me, not to mention the fact it won't be a welcome nuisance when I actually get this car to the point of being nice.

Anyways, I've heard some people say that the T-5 pedals will work with the T56 transmission, but that the pedals will rest a bit higher. Is this so? When it comes time for this, should I seek a T56 assembly? or just replace the T-5 one?

 

I would think any 1985-1997 pedal assembly would work. I put a 95 LT-1 pedal assembly in my 92.

 

I've searched this very subject, with out much luck. Subscribing.

 

People have done it either way with success. I'm using the T5 pedals with new T56 hydraulics.

 

So using pedals from a manual third gen for a t-56 works smoothly? No pedal travel issues with the different t56 clutch?

 

I second the question.

 

wouldnt you be able to use a 3rd gen master with the t56 slave? bc if its a yes problem solved

 

I used T5 Pedals and T56 Slave/Master in my 84 Berlinetta with a T56. The pedal action is higher in that car compared to my stock 95Z. Never had a "Problem".... it just grabs a bit higher.

 

One very cool thing I discovered is that Bruce at Hawks mods the 4th gen pedals to bolt right into our cars, so there's no guesswork or drilling new holes or trying to figure out where the pedals should go. From everything I've read, the 4th gen pedals are the best to use with the T56 swap (I am not saying the 3rd gen pedals do not work).

Bruce told me $112.00 for the mod, with switches, pigtails, etc., with provided pedals. Not sure how much if I already have the switches and wiring. Worth it, for saving any hassles, in my opinion.

$220 for a brand new set of 4th gen pedals with all required switches and pigtail.

The T56 I am buying comes with the pedals , and I am going with Bruce's modded pedals for two reasons:

1) Ease of install-plus the eye rod on the 4th gen master cylinder doesn't fit properly onto the post of our third gen clutch pedals (not without figuring out a way to make it work)
2) From what I've heard the 4th Gen clutch pedal has a better feel to it, as far as clutch engagement, especially with this mod done to it, accoriding to Bruce at Hawks. I guess his bolt-in setup has better geometry, somehow.

 

Hey, i hate to bring back an old thread, but i have one question. Would a pedal assembly from a 98-02 camaro work in a third gen as well, or just up to 1997? Thanks.

 

Yes, 98-02 work also.

The threads I've read on here have said the clutch pedal stud is higher (closer to the pivot) on the 4th gen pedals.

 

where do i go to get bruce to mods these 4th gen pedals... im in the process of buying parts and i want him to mod my pedals.... also does it matter if the pedals come from a v6 4th gen or v8 4th gen...

 

SO........ final verdict on t5 pedals with a t56 swap? I would love to use my existing pedals if I can!

I also have a stainless braided line and new master. Could I just buy a t56 slave and run it to my t56?

 

1fas92 used t5 pedals on his ls1/t56 swap without any problems

 

You can do that but the clutch engagement may feel a little different from with the 4th gen pedals and hydraulics. It does work though. Is the line from the master cylinder to the slave going to be long enough?

 

Hawks pedals are brand new. They are not modified junker pedals. I went this route because there is always something wrong with used stuff. Nice product.

I will tell you that Hawks does not have a good solution for the cruise release but that is pretty easy to modify.

John

 

I have a custom line I made and have been using after my plastic one melted. It is extra long and is stainless steel.....(found the way to do it on here).

I'd like to use a third-gen master with the t56 slave and custom line...HMMMMM



I do have a set of fourth gen pedals, BUT I was going to use them in a future t5 swap in another car...

 

Make sure you check the Master and Slave piston sizes when mixing and matching parts, along with the pedal linkage mounting location. You may end up with an undesirably short on long pedal travel.

 

This is correct.

The 4th gen stud is also slightly smaller diameter and longer than the 3rd gen, and uses a different clip arrangement to hold the MC rod to it.

However, 3rd gen pedals still "work" with the 4th gen everything else. Only problems are, the hydraulics are expecting the pedal stud not to move so far, so the 3rd gen pedals work the system through its entire active range in a little over half of their travel; and, it's not real easy to get the plastic bushing in the rod to go onto the stud and then the clip to stay put.

That said, it "works". I have that situation in my car so I know first-hand.

 

thanks! What about using a thirdgen master too? Would it not provide enough fluid transfer?

 

Iunno... that sounds like extra work to me, somehow. Couldn't say what would come of that.

 

I may try and just swap the t56 pedals then. Just a PITA because of my cage is ALL around the car and the thirdgen pedals/master are already in my car!

Hmmmmm, decisions, decisions

 

I can't see where a cage is a factor in this at all.

But yeah, for THE MOST NEARLY PERFECT setup, the 4th gen pedals (with the gas pedal portion cut off) would no doubt be best. But the 3rd gen ones will "work", albeit not quite as "perfectly".

 

3 bars meet near your feet and it is a pain working under the dash because of that. also the door bars prevent you from leaning in the car. you have to work upside down and laying on the seat to do it(with your feet out of the tops)....

 

I don't do anything under my dash without taking out the front seat. It's worth the time to remove it

 

Yeah, check my build thread and you will see pictures of my cage, LOL


Took me 30 minutes to get it out last time!

SO, I guess i will try and get all the fourth gen stuff in there to save clutch engagement issues. Was hoping for a good solution using parts that are already in my car is all!

 

LOL! that must be quite a sight.I know what you mean though, I don't have t -tops though.