700r4 problem
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1984 C10
Engine: 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
700r4 problem
i have a stock auto 700r4 in my car it has been rebuilt 2x then a shift kit was installed before i bought it the shift kit was broken so i had a gm tech rebuild it again for me but only a couple hundred miles later it sounded like it was grinding and it slipped every once and a while on a rolling stop and go my question is is the trans clutch in the torque converter slipping or is it my rear end? thanks in advance
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 700r4 problem
"slipping" can't occur on a rolling stop - slipping occurs when you mash the gas. Not sure what your trying to describe.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 700r4 problem
So by slipping (to make sure we're on the same page here), you mean that when you hit the gas, the engine revs but the car accellerates very slowly right?
Grinding doesn't sound good either. Might want to have the last guy that redid it take a look/listen/drive.
Grinding doesn't sound good either. Might want to have the last guy that redid it take a look/listen/drive.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Dunnigan, Ca
Car: F250,83 diesel, many more
Transmission: 4R100, 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.42
Re: 700r4 problem
Slipping isn't good on take off but grinding is worse. I would pull the pan and see how it looks. If there is a lot of metal flakes in the pan the clutches could be about gone. I have seen the rear planet bearing come apart. I usually see it on the SS Impalla a lot and on the 4X4 trucks. It seems like every one of these has to much pressure on the bearing in the center of the planet.
Rob
Rob
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1984 C10
Engine: 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Re: 700r4 problem
thanks rob i think tht might be the issue ill see how it is in a couple more months im low on cash so im not in a huge hurry to send it in the rebuilds were reported in a service book given to me with the car they were done at 60k and 62k miles and the 2nd owner didnt keep records i got 142k now sooo yea the trans has seen better days its not really doing the grinding much now so idk if its because the fluid needed to cycle thu or wut i was told by the tech tht the clutch is the mostlikely thing but he cant be sure ( idk y he didnt check it wen it was apart but thts beside the point) i just thought mayb i could get a second opinion
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1984 C10
Engine: 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Re: 700r4 problem
heres some more info: i recently took a look at the pan underneath the car and noticed its missing a bolt not sure if this could cause the issue also when i do a WOT pull on the street it makes a bit of a slip/grind sound kind of from the rear end any ideas?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Dunnigan, Ca
Car: F250,83 diesel, many more
Transmission: 4R100, 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.42
Re: 700r4 problem
Well a bolt missing isn't a good thing GM put them in there for a reasion. What did the bottom of the pan look like? Was there metalic, black at the bottom like friction material or small pieces of bushing or bearing?
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 833
Likes: 17
From: The Jersey Shore
Car: 1991 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt Posi
Re: 700r4 problem
a gm tech is does NOT mean he knows anything about transmissions. Bring it to a trans shop, aamco is your best bet, they have guidlines they are required to follow. Independant shops are going to do a patch job warranty it for 6 or 12 months and your gonna be back where you are today in 15 months.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1984 C10
Engine: 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Re: 700r4 problem
Rob, i havnt gotten the pan off (daily driver so i cant spend a ton of time on it) but the next chance i get i will
insomniac, im extremely connected with the buick/cadillac dealership (me and my uncle work there along with multiple family friends so they r my cheapest and best bet right now) so i kno the tech knows his stuff the bottom line is that the trans is old and worn i just need to locate the issue and get the part fixed i just want it reliable till i get some more money for an LSX conversion
insomniac, im extremely connected with the buick/cadillac dealership (me and my uncle work there along with multiple family friends so they r my cheapest and best bet right now) so i kno the tech knows his stuff the bottom line is that the trans is old and worn i just need to locate the issue and get the part fixed i just want it reliable till i get some more money for an LSX conversion
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,432
Likes: 1
From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
Re: 700r4 problem
If it is a daily driver then your best bet is to pickup another $50 to $100 700R4 2wd off of craigslist and have that freshened, beast shell, and small shift kit. All that with a new converter is probably about $370.
You can keep driving now and then install and have it reliable. Save the big pennies for the costly LSX conversion.
Won't the guy that rebuilt it at least tell you if it is the trans or rear end making noise?
You can keep driving now and then install and have it reliable. Save the big pennies for the costly LSX conversion.
Won't the guy that rebuilt it at least tell you if it is the trans or rear end making noise?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1984 C10
Engine: 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Re: 700r4 problem
If it is a daily driver then your best bet is to pickup another $50 to $100 700R4 2wd off of craigslist and have that freshened, beast shell, and small shift kit. All that with a new converter is probably about $370.
You can keep driving now and then install and have it reliable. Save the big pennies for the costly LSX conversion.
Won't the guy that rebuilt it at least tell you if it is the trans or rear end making noise?
You can keep driving now and then install and have it reliable. Save the big pennies for the costly LSX conversion.
Won't the guy that rebuilt it at least tell you if it is the trans or rear end making noise?
) and the guy cant get it to make the noise idk y
i think hes afraid to put the pedal down Re: 700r4 problem
You are now at a crossroad, do you really and honestly believe you can buy a used tranny (disposition unknown) and then not only rebuild it with a basic rebuild kit but also upgrade some parts for a sum total of $370?
If you can't drop the tranny yourself, the lowest price you'll probably find for someone to remove/re-install and rebuild with a basic rebuild and rebuilt t/c will be $1200 plus fluid costs. So, you'll probably be close to $1400 after taxes out the door for a minimal rebuild and labor. If you can drop it yourself, and get a bench rebuild, again you're looking at $700 for a minimum rebuild and then the cost of 12 quarts of fluid, new tranny mount (should replace it) and new u joints (should replace those too)
I understand that you want to believe the low price, but it's not reality.
If you want a tranny to be able to reliably handle over 400 ft lbs torque then it's not going to be under $1,000 and that's without buying a used tranny. Just a moderate torque converter with shipping will run you over $250. So, if you add $250 for a decent TC, $100-$150 for a junk tranny and you're already pushing $400. You don't go through the hassle of rebuilding a tranny without a new or rebuilt TC.
Reliability isn't cheap.
Last edited by torque_is_good; May 16, 2011 at 07:36 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: NW Indiana
Car: 1986 IROC-Z, 1984 C10
Engine: 5.0 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Re: 700r4 problem
the concept is great, the dollars that you see posted are fantasyland.
You are now at a crossroad, do you really and honestly believe you can buy a used tranny (disposition unknown) and then not only rebuild it with a basic rebuild kit but also upgrade some parts for a sum total of $370?
If you can't drop the tranny yourself, the lowest price you'll probably find for someone to remove/re-install and rebuild with a basic rebuild and rebuilt t/c will be $1200 plus fluid costs. So, you'll probably be close to $1400 after taxes out the door for a minimal rebuild and labor. If you can drop it yourself, and get a bench rebuild, again you're looking at $700 for a minimum rebuild and then the cost of 12 quarts of fluid, new tranny mount (should replace it) and new u joints (should replace those too)
I understand that you want to believe the low price, but it's not reality.
If you want a tranny to be able to reliably handle over 400 ft lbs torque then it's not going to be under $1,000 and that's without buying a used tranny. Just a moderate torque converter with shipping will run you over $250. So, if you add $250 for a decent TC, $100-$150 for a junk tranny and you're already pushing $400. You don't go through the hassle of rebuilding a tranny without a new or rebuilt TC.
Reliability isn't cheap.
You are now at a crossroad, do you really and honestly believe you can buy a used tranny (disposition unknown) and then not only rebuild it with a basic rebuild kit but also upgrade some parts for a sum total of $370?
If you can't drop the tranny yourself, the lowest price you'll probably find for someone to remove/re-install and rebuild with a basic rebuild and rebuilt t/c will be $1200 plus fluid costs. So, you'll probably be close to $1400 after taxes out the door for a minimal rebuild and labor. If you can drop it yourself, and get a bench rebuild, again you're looking at $700 for a minimum rebuild and then the cost of 12 quarts of fluid, new tranny mount (should replace it) and new u joints (should replace those too)
I understand that you want to believe the low price, but it's not reality.
If you want a tranny to be able to reliably handle over 400 ft lbs torque then it's not going to be under $1,000 and that's without buying a used tranny. Just a moderate torque converter with shipping will run you over $250. So, if you add $250 for a decent TC, $100-$150 for a junk tranny and you're already pushing $400. You don't go through the hassle of rebuilding a tranny without a new or rebuilt TC.
Reliability isn't cheap.
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