I have a question about the 700R4. I was thinking about installing a B&M Megashifter into my Camaro so I could ratchet threw the gears instead of using "drive". I was curious if anyone knows if a 700R4 in a "91 Camaro will allow you to hold a gear, ei. "1", "2", etc. and run what rpm you want, or will the transmission kick up a gear automatically once it reaches a certain rpm? An example would be if I put it in "1", Can I run to 6000rpm and then shift up to "2" manually or will the transmission computer upshift regardless?

 

It'll shift if it's a stock tranny and valvebody...

 

There is no computer for controlling shifts with 700-R4.

The Megashifter functions the same as the OEM shifter, but doesn't let you overshift (skip gears) as easy. It provides a positive stop between each gear, 1/2, 2/3, 3/4. Yes, it should hold the gear to a point. It will allow automatic downshifts, AKA passing gear. Transgo kit would be recommended.

That being said you shouldn't need to shift much over 5000 RPM with a TPI unless it's modified.

 

The 1-2 shift is pressure activated, you hold first long enough and it'll shift to second, a B&M shifter won't help that, the TransGo shift kit he's talking about will....

 

It actually has a FAST EZ EFI system, and not TPI. I'm wanting to get a rebuild kit for my transmission since I just put a 383 in. I'd like to have a B&M Megashifter in order to more easily manually shift threw the low gears. I just dont completely understand how the transmission shifts with a megashifter. I've heard some people say it's useless because the transmission will still shift and not hold the gear you put it in. If that was the case then there wouldn't be much point in spending $200 for a megashifter when I'd get the same results from what I've currenlty got. I know nothing about transgo, I'm assuming this is something they put in the transmission during the rebuild? Does this affect normal street driving when using drive and overdrive?

 

Look up Dana over at probuilt automatics. He sells a modified transgo kit. The kit basically allows for more controlled shifts, firmer shifts under throttle, better clutch holding power, and etc.

They can be added to a transmission at any point by taking the pan off and pulling the valvebody apart. There more expensive than the b&m shift kit, but after owning both the transgo is nicer. Transgo isn't noticeable when not under throttle. B&M is neck breaking at all times and frankly just hard on parts and annoying IMO.

 

I have Dana's modified transgo shift kit, and a Megashifter. It's certainly more fun to drive around and i'm pretty sure it won't upshift to 2nd when it's in 1st. I've taken it past 6500 a few times and it hasn't done it.

Mine still does the annoying 3-4-4-3 studder if i leave it in OD which kinda sucks.

Dana is a nice guy and very helpful however the instructions that come with his shift kit are a little vague, you can download the Transgo video from the transgo site that helps explain things a little better.

 

These guys are right, get the whole rebuild kit through Pro-Built, then it's worth getting the B&M Megashifter. I've have had one for years, they are nice. If you do buy one, order the short shifter cable, it's extra but worth it....

 

Thats for the help. I've actually been talking to Dana over there so its funny you bring him up. Problem I'm having with him is I've called him several times and sent emails over the last week telling him what I'm looking for with my car specs. He keeps saying he'll email me with what I need, But a week later I'm still waiting, and running out of time. I might have to look elsewhere soon since he doesn't seem to be on the ball or that interested in selling me a kit.

 

Just keep calling him, either way whatever you do, do not buy a Monster Transmission, I made that mistake, they are junk, made w/ junk parts.....

 

What about a tq converter? The ones Dana has seem expensive. I don't run track or race, The car is just a casual fun driver. I really don't think I need a $600 converter, Any suggestions?

 

You pay for the quality. Smaller converters are less stress and more efficient. Big thing to remember is you're paying for it to be setup to your build specs and have a stall change within the a specific period if needed.

Larger ones will work fine on a regular setup. Either way you probably want a lockup converter if yours was prior.

 

When I talked to Dana a few days ago he was recommending a 3000 stall, I think that's WAYYY to high. This car has the original rear with 2.73 gears I believe. This is not a drag car and will never be taken to the strip, It's nothing more then a weekend cruiser/show car. I don't want to have to mash the pedal down to get the thing going. This motor has roughly 475hp/480tq with a good size cam. I'm also using a lowrise intake to fit the motor under may stock hood. Does 3000 should right? I was thinking low 2000's at best, but again I know nothing about transmissions or tq converters. I just don't want 10 mpg because I have to run high rpms.

 

Stall convertors are gauged by motor specs (cam, heads etc.) and gearing, if you need a 3,000 rpm covertor, get one. Lockup stall covertors are not cheap, you can get a TCI from Jegs for less I am sure, but it's not something to cheap out on, I myself run a Continental. You don't want to know what that costs....

 

Again, My concern is driveability. I don't know much to anything about converters. I guess when I think about a tq converter I'm going to have to rev the motor to 3000k just to get moving. Maybe I'm not understand how they work. I just want to make sure the care is streetable and doesn't get 10mpg driving around down because I have to slam down the pedal just to leave a stop sign.

 

That's the great thing about lockup converters. They will lockup and function just fine at highway speeds.

Don't be detered by the rated speed that's only at flashes (dead stop then full throttle). It will slip some under that, so it's not like you have to hit 3000 for it for move. I had a 2400 RPM stall on my stock 350 and it performed perfect street manners. I'm using the same one now on my 383 (motor has some carb tuning issues), but it's stalling 2800-3000 RPM (more torque means higher flashs), once lockup occurs from my wiring (carb application) I can cruise in OD at 1300 RPM or whatever. That being said higher stalls do tend to build up heat due to the mushy feeling (slip), so a large aftermarket cooler would recommended for long transmission life.

 

Well thats good to know. Like I said, My understand of converters is next to nothing. I guess to the idiot it would sound like you have to run the rpm or higher on the rating to get the thing to move from a stop. The aftermarket cooler will have to wait. This project has already costed me 3K more then what I wanted to spend..... Anyways, thats an idea for future upgrade when I save some cash to get a better rear end to go with it. Thanks for the help!

 

Yeah don't worry it'll be streetable, I run a 385CI SBC w/ 3200 rpm stall on the street w/no problems. Under normal driving conditions they act just fine, when you nail it and hit 3k, you'll know it, pretty neat stuff actually....

 

I have a 3500 stall and have no problems getting around town, just like J91 said.. they act normal most of the time, at WOT is where the fun starts.