My slave won't compress. Period. I haven't tried manhandling it too hard yet- but when I took off the rubber boot, I could see the cupped piston almost at the top......do I need to crack the bleeder and push it back in, disassemble the entire unit, etc?

With the pushrod installed, I can't even bolt it up to the mount because it's completely extended. Because of this, I haven't even tried bleeding the system yet- only the master is bolted and hooked.

FWIW, since I installed the hydraulics I have NOT touched the clutch pedal for fear of blowing the piston out the slave, and I did get the master, slave, and reservoir used with my T5 and related parts (told they're good), and I have NOT drained any fluid out, but the reservoir was dry and not connected to the master.

THANKS in advance fellas!

 

You can try that and see... doesn't usually make any difference though, the MC piston uncovers the return hole when the clutch isn't pushed, which lets the slave get pushed in as long as the clutch is at the top, so maybe you've got an issue at the MC end?

 

Greeeeaaaaat........the one part of the swap I really don't want to mess with again. I'll keep you updated- thanks for the help!

 

Just loosen the two nuts for the u-bolt that retains the master cylinder.

If that opens things up, the master isn't mounted right.

 

Could the 'top' of the hole for the master being too low cause that? When I cut the holes, I used the pedals themselves as a template for the bolts, and then cut the hole in the middle. Seemed slightly snug on the top side of the hole when I torqued everything down.

That's good to know- I'll give that a shot hopefully this weekend or early next week. My garage was taken over for a garage/moving sale in the middle of my swap on Monday night.

 

Quick update- I was inspecting the slave, and noticed a 3/4 internal snap ring on the inside of the bore. It then dawned on me that the guy that sold me the setup claimed it was new hydraulics, though I didn't believe him because they looked dusty and greasy.

I cracked the bleeder valve on the slave, and was able to push the piston into the bore. I mounted it, and then used my pick set to remove the inner snap ring. Haven't bled the system yet, but I did have my beautiful assistant (my wife) push on the pedal, and I have a solid 1" or so of movement at the fork.

THANKS again for all the help fellas- just need to get exhaust now.

 

Good work.
Was there still another internal ring to retain the slave piston?
I'm used to the plastic retainer for the piston pin that pops once you use the slave once.

 

The 3/4 ring was actually metal. There were 4 evenly spaced slots it was retained by- I could use either my pick or a screwdriver to pop it out from the outside of the slave.

After that was out, there was nothing to retain the piston in the bore. Under the 3/4 internal snap ring sat the following in this order:

plastic cup (same color plastic as the cut strap to hold the slave rod- rod runs through the middle)
metal shim/retainer (thin metal washer w/ a slight twist)
Piston cup

Looking back my problem was my piston was already positioned at a point where the clutch would have to be disengaged in order to install- I don't think Chuck Norris would of had the strength to compress it, and thread the bolts into the slave shield.

I plan on bleeding the system once I replace my intake gaskets, and get at least headers and extensions on. I can't wait to drive it!!!!