I LOVE my T5 swap so far until today.

Drove around town, stopped for gas at a station on the way out of town, and it seemed like the clutch pedal lost pressure, and didn't disengage.

Got gas, drove about 50 miles, and right as I pulled into my office, the car died while parking for no reason. I put it in neutral, started the car, and it wouldn't go into gear. Forced it into reverse, and it died. Stood on the clutch pedal, started the car in reverse, and it was reversing along. Left the office- acted fine for the first couple shifts- but now my engagement point is VERY low on the pedal versus high where it was at. Also, won't go into gear unless the car is moving, or engine is off.

The only parts that aren't brand new with less than 250 miles on them are the master and the T5 itself. New slave, clutch, flywheel, TO bearing, pilot bushing.

I can't tell if there's any sounds- running LTs w/ M80's dumped right under the front seats right now

It baffles me that the engagement point suddenly changes one day, and it will accelerate with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

 

you got a leak , find it , fix it . good luck .

 

THANKS. Checked all over the line, slave, and master. No leaks. Internally maybe?

When I push the pedal, it goes down to about the old engagement point before I feel any resistance.

If I push it rapidly several times, it goes all the way to the floor and will feel like there's no resistance whatsoever- as if the pedal isn't hooked up. After a few seconds, it goes back to feeling resistance at the old engagement point.

 

The master could be internally leaking. If you're a take-it-apart-just-because-I-want-to guy, go ahead; you'll probably see well-worn seals.

In short, bleed it with a helped like you would brakes. When that's done, you should have normal firm pedal and the clutch should release. If the pedal is soft / goes to the floor, you've found the problem in the master.

 

THANKS! I'll give that a shot.

My pedal monkey (wife) is only available weekends while our daughter takes a nap, so I might be able to get it done this weekend.

 

If the bleeder is an allen screw, I can see that.

If you can replace the allen screw with a bleeder like most brake calipers have, then you could fit a hose to that, put the other end in the reservoir and recirculate the system to bleed it, no helper needed.

I don't know the thread sizes off hand...

 

I don't know it either- speaking of the bleeder screws, I need a new one for ours since the allen hole stripped out when we were bleeding it- fortunately on the very last push pedal-open-bleed-close procedure. Thank God for lifetime warranty!

 

Lifetime or not, they are dirt cheap and easy to replace. A long ext going through the engine bay works great for me on bleeding it.

I too think the master is bad..It's a PAIN to replace, but should solve your problems. Oh, and FREE bleeding is the absolute best way i have found to bleed these systems. They are NOT brakes and therefore should not be bled like brakes. NO pumping of the pedal at all is needed. just fiil the res, open the bleeder, and let her bleed out till its clear and solid. tighten her up and she will take care of the rest.

 

Our ideas of dirt cheap must be completely different- $36 spent 2 times is not dirt cheap in my pocket book. That's exactly what we did- long extension and a socket. So easy. Too bad the aluminum slave housing came with a cheap bleeder screw.

I tried the gravity bleeding the first time. Epic fail for gravity. Only way that worked and got ALL the air out of the system was following the directions here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ed-clutch.html