ok this is gonna be a long read so grab your smokes/coffee and your thinking caps. I bought a lt1 t56 trans, clutch, pedals, hydros from a guy off camaroz28.com a few years ago, put it in and it all worked great. that fall i went to the track with it, the rear end blew up and locked twisting the splines in my ds yoke and snapped my main shaft after the speed sensor. pulled it out, and put in a new mainshaft and a new yoke, slipped in a used 10 bolt to get me by. with the car back together i was driving and noticing a bad vib in my trans, a few miles later an explosion went off under the car and i noted the fimilar sound of my drive shaft slapping the floor pans. car on trailer to shop......up on stands alot is destroyed, bellhousing shatterd in 5 peices, input shaft is bent, cracked ear on my engine block, pilot bearing mauled, driveshaft broke at front u-joint and beat my yoke to hell, tourqe arm destroyed along with fuel, brake lines and exhaust. SAFTEY LOOP IS A GOOD IDEA!!! anyway trans apart, found we had overlooked 4 cracked teeth in the 1-4 countershaft that caused my vibe and probably vibed the trans out of the dowels. so in goes a new input shaft, new countershaft, bell, pilot, tourqe arm, exhaust, ds. put it together, shimmed the box and main shaft to spec. Now i am having shifting problems. it wants to grind 3rd/4th at moderate to high rpms, 1st and second feel notchy at times, its hard to downshift into 3rd/4th, on the stand from neutral to 1st the tires move forward a tad and stop, on the stand if i try to go from neutral to 4th it grinds like holy hell. on the ground i can hear it "load" the drivetrain when i put it on gear but hardly any movement. i know i dont need an adjustable mc because this setup has worked just fine before, gm hydros. ive bleed the hydros a number of times, its gotta be a clutch issue right? its a spec 3+ thats never given me a lick of trouble, is it possible the disc is bent? what about my flywheel? (centerforce 2 pc rear to t56) bent? clutch fork looked ok when i had it out.....im running out of ideas and i dont belive its syncros but i could be wrong.......help me out guys before a find a hand grenade to put in it instead!!! THANKS IN ADVANCE and sorry about the novel

 

73 views and not 1 opinion?? come on guys

 

I'd start by making sure all the dowels are in place at the bell / block and case / bell junctions.

Back to basics though; if in 1st gear on level ground, you can't hold the pedal down and the engine at moderate 2500 rpm without the car moving, then address the clutch (release) issue. If you can, then the trans. needs attention.

Is the disc bent? Not if you inspected it properly and installed it properly. Is there collateral damage from the yoke / mainshaft breakage? Hard to tell.

 

over torque the pressure plate to the flywheel?

 

I checked movement at idle, ill check it with revs after work, any idea why its grinding into 4th from an idle? i can't recall what i torqued the pp at, but if it was torqued wrong wouldn't it grind or have problems shifting in all gears? i used tremecs manual for specs

 

When i installed my new input shaft was the friction cone for where the syncro ring sits supposed to be scuffed?

 

The steel face of that cone is smooth, not textured and does not need scuffed.

Second design blocker rings are carbon and should have a groove design in the carbon. If you still had non-textured fibre blockers, junk them and get new.

 

Ok so i started the car, rev'd to 2500 and shifted to 1st, car creeped about 3 inches and stopped and then it wouldn't do it until i released the clutch and did it again. so its definitely a clutch issue. the fork cannot bend, just break...correct? its cast aluminum. tob possibly? i won't be able to pull it apart till next week, i just hope i don't need a new clutch....lame

 

Trans is a 97, if i recall correctly i remember textured rings.

 

tan or black?

 

Black

 

Carbon.

 

It was a great trans before all this, o well ill get it apart and sling you guys an update in awhile. thanks for the help jmd!

 

Give that pressure plate torque spec. some heed too. It's a low value given the fastener size but it's correct for the Valeo pressure plate.

 

Only question I have is how do you bleed LT1 hydraulics? I'm finishing up a T56 swap and there is no bleeder on it. Maybe there is still air in yours?

 

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174146

 

pretty sure there self bleeding just pump the crap out of it..