tzim350HO

Amen!!!!!!!! Ive got one in my ta i ran this last season. I made over 230 1/8 mile passes into the 7.80's. On drag slicks 26-10.50-15's dumping it on a stock (advance auto) clutch at 3k every time. I like to prove the people wrong that say it cant be done! Sure everything breaks EVENTUALLY! But if you know how to drive it'll usually pay off in the end.

88FormulaF_Bomb

iTrader: (1)

+1


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charliemccraney

I realize this thread is a bit old now, but regarding this from Robert Bowen's book:

Earlier this year, I stumbled upon the following while looking for an aftermarket shifter for my truck, with a Tremec T5:

********

NOTE:From Tremec dated 03/01Tremec Transmissions
Service Bulletin 03.01

Subject:
After market Shifter Stops

Transmission Models Affected:
All
Severe damage may be caused by installing an after market shifter with "shift stops" on any TREMEC transmission. All TREMEC transmissions are designed and manufactured with built-in shift stops to prevent over shifting. Therefore; shift stops on after market shifters are totally unnecessary when used on a TREMEC transmission. TREMEC "TR series" transmissions have multiple shift rails with shift stops on the gearing. TREMEC "T series" transmissions have a single shift rail system with stops built into the guide plate.

When installing an after market shifter on a TREMEC transmission it is best to remove the shift stops to avoid miss adjustment, and the potential of the screws vibrating lose. A misadjusted shift stop can cause an under-shift, which may lead to a gear jump-out situation. If the transmission jumps out of gear, the shift fork can be bent causing permanent damage to the transmission. Shift forks can also be damaged by "clash shifting". A clash is caused by a missed shift.

Neither an "under-shift", nor a "clash shift" can be prevented by shift stops. TREMEC shift forks are designed to take loads up to 1,000 lbs. However, a gear jump-out may well exceed 1,000 lbs. of force, which may result in a permanently damaged transmission.

********

I emailed Tremec to verify that this is a legitimate bulletin and it is. I also asked if it applies to the Borg Warner transmissions, to which they also said yes.

So if Tremec say there are shift stops, I'm inclined to believe them since they are the manufacturer.

That said, does anyone here work on Tremec transmissions regularly and understands completely and absolutely correctly how they work who can tell if either Robert Bowens, or Tremec is mistaken?

I didn't install the stop bolts with my shifter because it seems unnecessary, as indicated by Tremec. However, I also hope that a guy who writes a book about manual transmissions knows what he is talking about. And clearly, correctly adjusted stops will not cause problems.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Your last sentence is spot on.

Overtravel of shift rails can lead to damage. While the internal stop mechanism of a T5 or T56 should prevent over-travel of the rails, the guide plate can eventually develop wear, the 3-4 synchro in the F-body/Ford/Dodge models can spit out keys from overtravel.

TxTtopZ

This thread must have 9 lives.

I've owned MANY fox body Mustangs, and 2 F-bodies with a T5. I made ALL my T5's last. I even bought 2 cars with problem transmissions and had them rebuilt, and they lasted!

If your in the Austin area, Pistoles Transmission is your friend... Ok? He does good rebuilds for good prices.

No joke. 85 GT w/ 302 Ford with Lunati 224/230 .538" custom cam on a 110 center. Bennett Racing Ported GT40 heads 1205 ports, screw in studs, guide plates etc. etc. O ringed for boost since I was going to do a blow through set-up. Electric fans, Equal lengths, H pipe, dumps etc. etc. etc. 3.73's. Pro 5.0 Shifter is all I used with a Steeda Tri-Ax handle. Weiand Stealth intake, Holley 670 carb. SVT King Cobra Clutch kit... ALL BOLT ONS. EASY MID 12's

1989 AOD to T5 swapped LX Vert.
Full bolt ons. 3.23 gears. Nice highway car. Had the T5 rebuilt and never broke. Just a mid 13 second ride tho..


Another LX I had. 1991. 306 flat top Ford. GT40P heads, TFS 1 cam, TFS upper and lower intakes, AFPR, shorties, H pipe, dumps, 4.10's, MSD, Electric fans, no smog, thing would smoke first, hit second, roast all of that and wiggle going into third or if the street was grippy it would chirp.
The T5 again, bought it broken, rebuilt it with company above... NEVER BROKE. High 12's, shouldve gone quicker but had no traction.




Point is, T5's will last if you treat them right. I have buddies who shift like they are in a fight. Everything counts, but do you REALLY think that is going to make much difference?? Between that and a nice smooth quick shift your not losing any real noticeable time. I did drive them pretty wild a lot tho. Just use the clutch ok?
The one T5 I had in an 89 Firebird with an LO3 is not even worth mentioning. It was pretty stock and lived a long stress free life. I don't even think I changed the fluid in that one...
Fluids were always synthetic ATF.

I think you can safely make a T5 live behind a 400hp car, I have done it! I STILL would rather have a T56.

usmechanix

Bump!

Nelz

Check out this video on how to rebuild the T5 from Eric the Car Guy's channel and Paul Cangialosi

Part. 1
Part 2

1. You can reinforce the case with a STEEL Cluster Support Plate. (see 27:49 of here: ) Steel doesn't flex as bad as Aluminum plates. But Paul shows how the this improves the case around 32:12 and prevents spreading of the gears.) I did talk to Paul over the phone and he said that anyone that says that a cluster support plate increases the torque capacity of your transmission is talking bull. This just helps avoid gear spread under high loads. It doesn't make the gears stronger-that requires new gears made from better materials. (Ie. Astro or G-Force.) You can find Paul's cluster support plate here. (He's the original inventor of the cluster support plate.) http://www.5speeds.com/cart/index.php?route=product/category&path=75_18_68
2. Measure the Bell housing for concentricity and parallel. This is important and overlooked. If you don't do it, you'll put unnecessary side loads on the transmission. See here: http://www.moderndriveline.com/Techn...t-indexing.htm and and
The above is the most basic you can do along with adding the Pro 5.0 Shifter.

The other thing I have read (not tried) is looked at Pro-Motion's T5 with a G-Force Gear set. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...-transmission/

But their website provides a clue on what they do to beef up normal T5's. Their GM page reads that a normal T5 can go up to 490HP using HD 3/4 keys and cryo-treating your gears and who knows what else. http://promotionpowertrain.com/gm-stick.html Their Ford T5 page gives more clues. http://promotionpowertrain.com/TRANSMISSIONS_.html

The 420HP package says:

this unit is built w/ 295 1st gear, Steel Bearing Retainer, Higher Alloy Steel, Cluster Support Plate, You can+$90.00 3/4 assembly has solid HD keys, your choice of overdrive 59/64% Add Solid 3/4 Keys

Their up to 500HP package says:
this unit is built w/ 295 1st gear, Steel Bearing Retainer, Higher Alloy Steel, Cluster Support Plate, 3rd/4th/C/s are Cryo treated, 3/4 assembly has solid HD keys, your choice of overdrive 59/64%

(You'll note that they do not give Torque Capacity of the Transmission after upgrading. After that it's literally upgrading to Astro or G-Force gears.