camaro87-alex

Now I need 700r4 experts to chime in here.
First of all I am going to introduce the situation and the transmission we are talking about.

It is a 1991 model 700R4 that I've bought about a year ago. I have overhauled several 700r4's and I feel like I know all the parts inside and out. Anyway, there are still some things I don't quite understand perfect but anyway here is the situation.

1. When driving in slow speeds, let's say about 20mph and giving throttle 3/4 of travel, even at WOT sometimes (if it doesn't kick down), the RPM raises to an excact point and speed increases but RPM stays still..
I mean, the RPM needle jumps to about 2500RPM and speed increase from 20mph to 50-60mph without any change in RPM. The transmission shifts and everything but RPM stays about the same range. Does this come under slipping problems??

2. I am having WOT problems. The car shifts at 3300RPM at WOT and everything is perfectly adjusted. Have checked TV cable and all of those steps. Any ideas what to look for here??

3. I am having a clunky noise when going from 2nd to 3rd or opposite. From 3rd to 2nd. Especially when giving some throttle you can hear a clunky noise which sounds like it come's from the rear end. But the funny thing here is that there is no clunky sound at all the others gears. Even with WOT. ANy ideas here??..



I think I need to tell you about my upgrades and the overhaul itself first so that you have a clue of what is inside the transmission. I have upgraded this:

1. Corvette servo with larger boost valves

2. Beast sunshell

3. Transgo SK-700 shift kit. Followed the instructions according to Dana

4. Transgo 700-P separator plate.

5. Latest sprags, torrington bearings, torlon check ***** and a complete overhaul kit which include all gaskets, o-rings etc etc.

6. Sonnax parts like, 4th apply piston, TCC valve with teflon sealings

7. Alto 3-4 powerpack clutch pack.

8. The rest of the cluthes and steels were replaced with Borg warner quality. The same with the 2-4 band.

I have a 2000stall converter from Summit which I bought several years ago. Should be working since all my pressures are ok.
Took a line pressure test on one of the days and all my pressures are perfect. They are just where they should be in idle and at full TV.

I guess this sounds like a lot of questions to answer but I am more than pleased if somebody could chime in on ideas of what things could be..

Pro Built Automatics

Sounds like you have the "diesel" governor. The diesel governor will not allow a downshift, and the 3,300 rpm WOT shifts are what you get with that. The clunk is normal, but the grinding of the 4 slots in the steel cover usually eliminate most of the clunk. The rpm's staying approximately the same is the converter slipping, but gaining speed.

camaro87-alex

Thanks for responding Dana.

I am pretty sure I have the correct governor because I bought it brand new from a transmission store nearby and I told them that I needed the correct one for V8 gas applications. And I compared this to my stock governor and it looks exacly the same. I've had this WOT problems for a long time now and still can't figure out what is causing this. I have tested the car at WOT sometimes and pushed it all the way in overdrive.
Then the car sometimes has shifted from 3rd to 4th and back to 3rd and forward to 4th several times at about 4000rpm. I just think this is something that is wrong.

The clunky sound is normal you say?..Doesn't sound good though even though I have drilled the 4 slots on the steel cover. (I guess you mean the 2nd servo piston steel cover?)

So the converter is really slipping this much??..It just feels to much when I am using the car as a daily driver though...And if I am not remembering wrong my 78 Trans AM which has a Th350 in it feels a lot "tighter" compared to my 700r4.

Should I invest in a new converter perhaps?..My converter has been through some rough times before you see, with an overheated transmission and some stuff. I have just cleaned it and flushed through it with several oil shifts.

And I must say I have been very interested in those Edge converters you have on your website Dana.

Atilla the Fun

They could have gotten the wrong governor in the box at the manufacturing plant, or the shop could have fudged the part number. They all look similar. Dunno why a diesel gov would inhibit downshifts, in light of my own experience with a 4200 governor in my '83 C-10 6.2L diesel. Which I soon swapped for a 3800 to improve light-throttle upshifts. The difference was some round holes in the weights. Torque converters: Again, seems like you somehow got a 2400. I used a B&M TorkMaster 2000 in my '78 Camaro LG3 / TH350 / 3.08:1, it raised the launch from 1200 to 1700, but reduced interstate slippage from 200 to 50 RPM. That was awesome! ( Better acceleration AND better MPG ) I put a TM2400 in my '95 Z28 with 2.73:1 axle, that raised my launch RPM to 2400, made burnouts effortless, even standing on the brakes at half throttle, and was really irritating to drive anytime I wasn't launching. But I also used it with a 3.42:1 axle, and it wasn't at all irritating in any way. As for the shuttle shifting, the governor doesn't want you doing 4000, but the VB doesn't want you in OD at 3/4+ throttle. 'vettes and 5.7L F-cars didn't have that problem, and that valve is offered as a WOT 4th gear kit, but realize GM never combined it with any axle ratio starting with a 2. What axle gear and rear tires are in the car right now? With my TM2400 in my '95, I also experienced your condition of having the converter accelerate the car, at constant engine RPM. It was interesting at first, but it got old, and I'd downshift manually if WOT wasn't called for. Again, with 3.42:1 gears, this wasn't so noticeable. Back to governors. They don't really work off engine RPM anyway. They go off driveshaft speed. The outer weights seem to be for 1-2, the inners seem to be for 2-3, but that leaves me wondering about 3-4 Anyway, any one particular governor will give far different shift points, RPM wise, with a 2.73:1 axle versus a 3.73:1 axle, all else staying the same. But the MPH of those WOT upshifts will stay the same. So I'd guess you have a 2.73:1 or 2.77:1 axle. If your gov doesn't have the holes, then it's not helping. There are kits to custom calibrate those. Or just get a better axle ratio.

camaro87-alex

Hey Atilla and thanks for responding.
I guess I should have told more about my car, because that matters of course. I have been almost completely modded the whole car with a lot of upgrades.

For example the engine was a stock Lg4 which now is converted to TPI. The engine was completely rebuilt as well and installed a COMP cam (08-412-8) and Hooker 2055hkr headers. L98 Vette heads are installed as well as a complete magnaflow exhaust system with a Catco 9118 cat.

At the rear end I have installed a Eaton POSI unit which has only a 1000miles on it. And I installed 3.42 gears on that unit as well. Came with the Eaton posi kit that I bought. The tires I am running now is 245/40/18.

I have also done my own Eproms and have equipemnt to do tuning. But since the transmission doesn't "optimize" the way I want it is kind of hard to tune as well.


I know for sure that the converter is a Summit racing converter with the 2000stall. Mayby the converter is a little bit to much for my car since it is my daily driver or as I say: summer car.
I have not done street racing with the car yet but I like it when I hit the pedal to the metal that you are beeing forced back in the seat. Just love that... :-)

Anyway a B&M Torkmaster has also been on my mind. They are not that quite expensive either so mayby I will give that a shot.
I think I need to change out my converter anyway because it just doesn't feel good. I mean, when going around cruising and hitting the gas pedal to almost WOT, I can actually adjust which RPM I should lay on..it jumps to 2600RPM and if I release a little bit it goes down to 2200rpm but still accelerating slowly. And increase throttle again rpm goes up again.
Confuses me...

Atilla the Fun

Either you got an excessively loose 2000, or you got a 2400 stuck in the box for a 2000. Both are 12" Good converters slip about 400 RPM when accelerating, after you get above the stall speed. One way to tell is watch the tach, while abruptly lifting off the throttle from accelerating at 1/2 - 2/3 throttle.