Hey I know this is an old thread but nobody touched on the cags or skip shift do you just leave it unplugged or do they have a plug for the solenoid so I don't have it in there

 

You don't have to hook it up.

 

I put a freeze plug in mine. Seems like it was about 30 or 31mm. Whatever I came up with didn't fit real tight, but that was OK, there's no pressure or anything, and sealer held it in well enough and kept it from leaking.

There's another hole, for the reverse lockout. Seems like that one was the same size as some oil drain plug (threaded) you can buy in the Help! section of drain plugs.

I might have those 2 mixed up in my mind. It's been like 20 yrs, and as They say, your memory is the 2nd thing you lose when you get old; but I forgot what the 1st was supposed to be.

 

The reverse lockout hole is smooth, the CAGS is threaded. I too have CRS, can't remember shyte

 

So THAT'S what that stands for! I had forgotten.

 

this M20X1.5 for the skip shift I wanna wire the reverse lockout to work and what is the best crossmember for the money I was gonna go with the Spohn

 

I also have access to a ZF 6-speed I know it will bolt up and I know that a factory torque arm won't work I would use a tunnel mounted torque arm my question is would I still need the Dakota digital box or is the speedometer compatible. I do plan on using the T56 for my car but I believe my wife wants the stronger ZF transmission

 

From the reading I've done here on the board, the ZF is almost a complete fabrication install unless you can find all of the super rare SLP parts needed for a "bolt-in" install. Even with the SLP parts the sheer size of the transmission may require trans tunnel mods (wasn't able to find exact info on that).

FWIW

 

I've had one friend complete the ZF swap by doing a custom torque arm that has a crossbar that attached to his subframe connectors but he also had the Corvette driveshaft set to his measurements I don't believe he had too many tunnel issues

 

Currently working on this swap, and there's 2 lines that appear to run from the pass side of the transmission in my 87 IROC, to the radiator. The T56 i pulled from a 95 LT1, doesn't have those lines or any coolant lines for that matter. Nothing in this guide says what to do with those...so im curious? I know this thread has been dead for a while, hopefully someone out there can help me out. I'm not a car guy, this is my first build. SO if the question sounds stupid/ignorant, thats IS WHY lmao. Im LEARNING as I go and a auto to a manual swap prob isn't where I should start, but you gotta start somewhere lmao...Everything on the car is stock, but I wanted a manual since the 350 didn't come in one and auto is boring to me. Thanks in advance

 

Manual transmission cars do not use transmission coolers normally. Drain and cap the radiator off

 

I knew that the manual didnt have the lines. I just wasnt sure what to do with them since this guide didn't say. So i just cap off the holes where the trans lines go in. Do you have a clue what threads the hole would be so I can get a couple caps?

 

I believe they're either 5/16 or 3/8 npt

 

Thanks, ill try em out. Appreciate the help guys

 

Ok guys, im confused a bit on the wiring for the reverse lockout. Ive searched everywhere and I can't find a guide to what wire color etc actually goes where and my pigtails don't match the stock stuff. The Lockout pigtail set i bought thats labeled as to whats what, has a Pink wire (Ignition Voltage) and Green Wire (Reverse Lockout Solenoid Control). Stated above to wire to brake light switch and the other to ground. Which goes to ground and which goes to the brake light? and which wire here in this photo on the brake light do i use? Im not sure what position that brake light switch was in when i pulled the wires off, so left and right would be hard to choose. Yellow, to my knowledge, is usually ignition, so does that pink wire (labeled ignition on the pigtail) splice into that yellow wire on that switch and the green go to ground in the console area? Im also not sure I have the top connector on the brake light switch hooked up right, it goes on both ways, but one wire is pink and other purple...does it matter? or is it just completing a circuit and thats it? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I just don't know **** and trying to learn. I searched and searched for hours and days before I made a post about it. I havent started the wiring yet, but this is the only portion that has me confused....Thanks in advance





BTW, the radiator plug I was asking about a several days ago, was a CONFIRMED Dorman part 5/16 size. I got 2 for less than $10 at advanced auto parts. Worked like a charm to plug both holes the trans cooler lines left open. So thanks for that.

 

Here are some typical wire coding off the top of my head:
Red - battery voltage, always hot.
Pink - hot in run+start
Orange - hot in accessory+run

To activate the solenoid, one side needs to supply the +12V power (pink), and the other (green) is the control signal that ultimate goes to ground.
On a 4th gen, pink comes from a fused source, and the green goes to the ECM to be grounded.
Since your situation is different, you can either make it a 1) hot trigger, or 2) ground trigger.
1) ground the green wire, and hook the pink to a switched hot source, such as the output side of the brake switch.
NOTE: if you brake and downshift from 6th to 5th, you have to be careful not to hit Reverse (at high speed!)
or 2) tie the pink wire to another pink source... hot in run. Then connect the green wire to a switch that goes to ground when activated... such as a manual switch, or controller... Samoco or Samoco from Wirebarn or a review on RacingJunk or a Jegs version <<-- check the Instructions tab for a helpful PDF or a B/W PDF here

I don't have a wiring diagram handy, and AustinThirdGen.org is down at the moment, so I can't say for sure which brake wire to tap into.

Joe

 

Aight, awesome. This was very helpful. Seems like the logical/safer way of doing this is to buy the switch and not risk downshifting into R. Didn't want to spend another $100 but its better safe than sorry. Trans is freshly rebuilt, don't need any unnecessary damages.

 

im going to be swapping in a t56 to my 85 this weekend or next, just wanted make sure. I should be able to use a T5 crossmember and my stock torque arm to the new tranny right?

 

Not unless you are cutting, fabbing and re-welding the T5 crossmember.
Torque arm will work

 

Hawks has the full kit for sale. The T-56 is offered with 2.66 or 2.97 ratio. Any suggestions? Will be installing it behind my 5.7

 

2.66 w/ high 3s rear gear minimum, like 3.73 or 4.10

 

Always the closer ratio.

Even the close ratio OEM gear sets for T56 are still more like "close" ratio if you squint. These are not true race car like close ratios. So you aren't giving up any drivability.

The drop between 1st and 2nd is HUGE on most cars.

Close ratio really makes a difference when you are pulling out of low speed corners.