thedoctorisin

Ive (had) a 700r4 behind my LT1 Cutlass but I blew threw the 3-4 clutch packs. I put in my old TH350 to keep her rolling but I miss that overdrive gear!

My plan is to sell the TH350 with it running in my car and use the money from that to put toward a rebuild kit and labor.

Ive been shopping around for a while and Ive seen alot of different options but Im looking for some advice from anyone out there that have good/bad experiences with one company or another.

i was looking at the "monster ina box" kit for 500, seems pretty stout and would be more than enough to handle my LT1.

also looking at kit from PATC, the master kit with 9 clutch power pack.

i was going to put a corvette torque converter in should be around 2200k stall, is that decent?

what does the corvette servo do for the trans? firming shifting right?

like i said, just trying to get an idea of whats out there.

Im more of a cruiser type but I do like to lay the hammer down getting on the freeway from time to time, but Ive herd that some of the upgrades can help the trans last longer due to clutched grabbing faster so Id like to do the job once. the right way.

thanks in advance!

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

2200k might be a little high :-)

As long as it's the proper converter 2200 RPM should be okay. My 350 TPI loved the 2400 RPM flash. Keep in mind flash speed is dependent on the combination.

Probuilt Automatics rebuild kits:
https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/home.php?cat=19

Corvette servo do improve the firmness of upshifts of 2nd and 3rd gear if I remember correctly.

If you want to manually shift it then an upgraded boost valve is also nice as it will increase the pressure.

caditech

eatmyshift.com they have a great rebuild kit. ive got it in my blazer and it blows the tires loose on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift when i hammmer it.

thedoctorisin

Yeah, the stall I'm looking at really isn't high at all but if I'm beefing up the internals would a higher stall be better or worse on the components or does it really mater.

I was looking at "eat my shift" aka monster trans. The kit is now 475 or something. But for 1200 you can just buy a whole trans with all the goodies all ready in there, so I may do that depending on how much a trans rebuild is going to run me. If I'm spending the big bux I want to have it done right.

caditech

ive heard mixed reviews about buyin a trans outright from them. ive built transmissions for years and just built my own lol. i bought the kit from monster and then a bunch of hard parts from PATC. it wasnt an cheap trans build, but the thing is sweet. if you could pull the trans and bring it to a trans shop somewhere by you and have someone go through it that might help too.

thedoctorisin

Well I know a ase cert. Mechanic who could probably rebuild it for me for a fee and maybe let me watch and learn but he's at my old job so I have to go reconnect with him and see what he'd be willing to do.

If I'm taking the clutch packs out and beefing those up, would it hurt anything if I left everything else stock or would I be stressing the new clutches or the old trans parts?


I'm pretty sure I could personally handle just the packs but if I start tearing apart the pump and other springs and servos I don't want to screw anything up I haven't done before. Particularly with new expensive parts.

I don't need to be breaking loose tires in third gear but I do not want it to give out behind my LT1. Just looking to make a nice streetable trans that would handle daily driver type use with the occasional beasting onto the freeway or 1/8th mile strip near my place.

oramac91

iTrader: (5)

I have rebuilt Jasper 700 r-4 With less than 1000 miles on it. For $500 obo

abray1

They make a .501 booster valve that increases line pressure and also a 13 vane pump and big servo is a good investment. The blue raybestos clutches are as good as any and the kevlar bands work very well. They make a few 3-4 clutch pack kits and they are all good from what I hear. Thats what I usually do to mine and they live much longer. The last one I built I added the 5 pinion planets and beast sunshell.

Pro Built Automatics

The .500" main boost valve is fine. Add the .296" intermediate/reverse boost valve also, as this improves the 1-2 manual shift. DO NOT add the 13 vane setup as it is not designed to work with the 10 vane pump. There was more than just a 10 to 13 vane count change here. The slide and the back half of the pump are different for the 13 vane pump. If you want to go to the 13 vane pump, get a 13 vane pump (the back half) and use a Dremel or an end mill to copy as best as you can the entrance and exit oil slots, otherwise it is a waste of time and you will not see any improvement by going to a 13 vane setup "without" these modifications. The 13 vane setup from GM was to get a "quieter" pump. It does offer "smoother" line pressure below 3,500 rpm at WOT. The 10 vane pump actually offers slightly more oil volume at high rpm's. The Raybestos Blue Plate Specials work well on the track but not very well on the street and are 4-5 to five times the cost per clutch as the Borg Warner Hi-Energy's. The Borg Warner Hi-Energy clutches work as well as are much cheaper. I offer an 8, 9, or a 10 clutch setup here for the 3-4 clutch pack, depending on the horsepower, etc. The Kevlar band does not work or hold up well in 700R4's and 4L60E's. Again the oem Borg Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band out does them all. The Alto Carbon and the Alto Red lined band do pretty well too. The Beast sunshell is fine, but the late "heat treated" GM sunshell works just fine. It is "balanced", lighter and cost less. The 5 pinion planetaries are not necessary as the oem 4 pinion planetaries hold up just fine. If you use the 5 pinion setups, use the oem type only as the China 4 & 5 pinion planetaries are junk. Do your research on this stuff, and don't fall for the "hype". What I recommend is much cheaper than all the "so called" improvements, and has a "proven" track record. If you have any questions, ask.

thedoctorisin

If you >oramac91 are near California I'd be all over ur trans, but I don't think I want to deal with shipping that heavy b**** anywhere unless you want to deal with it but I don't want to put you though the hassle anyway.


I'm liking your suggestions Pro Built on the parts. You wouldn't have a parts list of any sort for a budget minded builder. Like I said earlier I'm looking for something reliable and able to handle my LT1. And how you are saying, cut the hype and get the best parts at the best prices to maximize your investment.