blue birdy 87

So I pulled the motor and transmission for a motor swap. Outside of the car I installed the flywheel, clutch, and trans onto the new engine. Then installed into the car.

The only other thing I did was replace the slave cylindar with a new one. It is a hydraulic clutch with DOT 3 fluid in it, and I am sure it is bled all the way.

The problem is when the clutch pedal is to the floorboard and the car is in first or reverse, the car still moves as if the clutch isnt fully engaged.

My first thought was that I need to adjust the pedal height, or bleed more air out of the system. I have bled the system several times to try to fix this problem and even my shop teacher says the pedal feels fine.

Is there a way to adjust the clutch pedal height? Is there a chance I could have bought the wrong clutch slave? Or is the clutch simply on wrong??

Any help appreciated

More info:

Also replaced the throwout bearing

It will go into any gear when the motor is off. If the transmission is in first with the clutch pedal to the floorboard and you start the car, it will start but the car will also move forward as if the clutch is only half engaged.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

It sounds like the slave cylinder is the only related part that changed

1. Did you compare it's pushrod length with the old one?
2. Did you install the clutch fork tines AND it's spring clip in the same groove on the throwout bearing? If not, pull it out and fix that.

blue birdy 87

The slave cylinder rod has the exact same length, and the outside is no different. I forgot to add that I did change the throw out bearing also (the old one was bad). They looked exactly the same.

What is the spring clip you are talking about? Picture?

Also is there any way to take the clutch for out to check that without dropping the transmission?

blue birdy 87

Could the flywheel be the problem? Searching the forums that was the problem in this thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-car-wont.html


I used the same clutch and flywheel ect that went with that transmission, (which is in its original car, 84 t5 hydraulic clutch just a different engine. I never thought to check if the new engine was a one or two piece rear main (I am still an amatuer mechanic at best)

LAFireboyd

iTrader: (3)

You said you replaced the throwout bearing... are you sure the pivot ball-fork-throwout bearing is set-up correct? The disengagement issues sound like the fork might not be seated correctly on the bearing, or the fork might not be on the pivot ball properly.

blue birdy 87

I think you might be right about the fork not being on the pivot ball correctly. It noticed today that it makes a popping noise when you release the clutch. Also it looks like the clutch fork does not move perfectly straight (I dont know how it should to compare it to)

So I take it the next step is to remove the transmission?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Read what I wrote.

Fork tines. There are two. A dinner fork has four. So the inner end of the fork.

The spring clip is riveted to the fork. It's two ends right next to the fork tines must go in the same groove on the throwout bearing.

If the spring clip is installed behind the throwout bearing (instead of in the groove with the fork) then you have problems like you're describing.

Yes and inspect the ballstud and fork for wear at their pivot points. You may be well-suited going with new parts if they have wear.

blue birdy 87

Took the transmission off and immediatly saw a problem, the throw out bearing

Everything else seems fine, the clutch isnt lined up perfectly but its pretty close, and the shaft came out fine