Hey guys,

I picked up a newer transmission to have rebuilt for my 84 T/A. My goal was to get an 88 and later model that had the second design valve body and other internal upgrades that Dana at Pro-built said were good.

After I got it, the problem I'm running into is that all the numbers on the passenger side are ground off indicating it's a re-man unit from GM (most likely according to Dana), however the sticker up on the bellhousing is completely worn and faded, can't make out any details on it.

How can I tell for certain that this is a 88+ model year tranmission now? About the only thing going for it is that it has the electronic speedometer unit in it. Also, it's not an F-body unit because the tail house does not have the provision for the Torque Arm. How bad/good is that? What are the differences between an F-body trans and non F-body trans?

Thanks in advance for any input/assistance.

 

Holy crap. I'd be lying if I told you how to identify it. I can tell you that you will need the correct output shaft to match the tail shaft housing. To change the output shaft, you need to take everything out of the trans until there isn't anything left but the shell. If you don't change the output shaft and change only the tail shaft housing, you will have trouble with the yoke. Another option would be to use the tail shaft housing that came with it, and mounting the torque arm to the crossmemer.

 

This ^^ ... BMR train crossmember is about 260$ if I remember correctly

 

you may be able to get info from these guys?

from they're site;
"If you have a 1982, 1983 or early 1984 transmission (27 spline input shaft)"

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700r4.htm

 

Grounded off "numbers" = stolen

 

Take the tail off and verify the outpit will take a speedo gear; some trucks had reluctor wheel; all third gens have a speedo gear driven VSS.

Google pics of the valvebody to determine early or late VB.

 

Nope
all that is required is the housing swap
Only Vettes and 4WD output shaft lengths are different ,

 

Hmm..

I've already got the a full rebuild and shift kit from Dana for the 87-92 700R4...I just don't know if the transmission I have is an early or late model. I do know it's not a 4WD model.

I just found a 92 4wd 4l60 for $50.00 that needs a rebuild. Seems like a good deap but also that it would be quite a bit of work to have to swap the shafts? If I'm going through it anyway, how much more is involved to swap the the shafts as indicated?

Should I pass on it and look around at Junkyards for an F-body specific model?

 

If it were me I would make my life easier and get one out of an F body.

 

If your transmission has this metal tube then it will be the newer Aux-valvebody.

 

Ok, then I'm going to need to find a way to drain it and flip it then, the trans I bought to rebuild is currently in a transmission case on the floor of my garage.

 

LOL....usually yes, but the dealerships/GM grinds them down when they are a factory rebuild and puts a sticker on them. Sadly, my sticker is so faded I can't read it.

 

http://www.technicalvideos.com/what_year_700R4.phtml

http://texasz.net/allan_and_rosanne/...20A%204L60.htm

might help?

 

Ok, I pulled the trans pan and it definitely has that tube.

I was also able to clean up the sticker on the bellhousing to barely make out the ID number:

8MPM113H

I also cleaned off the side of the case where the number is really well and did a pencil rub of it and I think those are the same number they tried to grind off.

So, it appears I have an 88 Transmission.

 

Here are the pictures of the transmission. It needs a good cleaning!

 

The chunky awsomeness I found in the bottom of the pan! And I was told this was a working trans when pulled. YEAH Right!

 

No F-body transmissions in any of the yards around here.

 

No part of the vehicle VIN is in the transmission ID with the exception of the year. This isn't a late '60s muscle car, sorry.

To Ozz, pull off the valve body there should be a 2 digit code stamped on the separator plate. This will tell you if the valve body is a type 1 or type 2. Either one can have an auxiliary valve body (metal tube). Type 2 is the "newest" style and should have been used from late 1987 until end of production.