So, I scored a complete 8.8-inch axle assembly from an '01 Mustang GT convertible, for $ 118 out the gate.
Now it's completely apart, and all the suspension brackets are off, but looking inside, I can't see what all the fuss is about. It doesn't seem impressive at all.
I know these things can be made to work, and I believe it starts out at least as strong as a max-effort 7.625, so I'm going to show what I do to get it under my third gen.
Anyone want to trade their 2.73s for my 3.27s?

 

The 8.8 Ford is built very much like the Chevy 12 bolt. The big difference between them is the axle size. Your '01 rear end is going to have 28 spline axles, which are the same size as the '90 and up 7.5 axles. Other than that everything else is much stronger. In '05 they finally upgraded the Mustang 8.8 to 31 spline axles.

 

You can get an OBX LSD for that rear new for $275 needs deburr and a preload spacer kit but it will be very strong and lots cheaper than a Truetrac....

 

Mustang GT 8.8 already has a Trac Lock in it.

 

The need for the torque arm is, to me, the best argument for the Mustang versions. The cast-on provisions for that dogbone damper can add strength to the bracket if fabricated accordingly. At least that's how it seems to me. Have a look at this pic to see what I kept, not only what I cut.

 

 

 

Not having much luck finding weld-on housing ends specifically for this, except Mark Williams. Seems they're the only game in town.

 

Moser Engineering has many weld on housing ends. They are some of the best because they allow you to use a OEM axle seal. What exactly do you need?

 

I looked at Moser's, have you compared them against the M/W? M/W offers a jig, but to my untrained eye it looks like the Moser design actually requires the jig to weld them square. I'm not looking for lowest cost, I'm looking for newb-friendly, as none of the possible shops around me have ever welded housing ends before. My local Six States appears to have a setup for welding driveshafts while it turns the shaft, it looks like it might be able to turn the 8.8 without the pinion cone hitting the machine's base.

 

You must have a housing fixture to weld the ends on. If you don't use the fixture you will probably ruin the splines on the axles or the axle bearings. Mittler Brothers has a very good housing fixture. It's the one that I have. http://www.mittlerbros.com/mittler-b...wing-kits.html

The Moser housing ends allow you to use the OEM axle seals. Strange ends do not. I don't know about Mark Williams ends. Doesn't matter who's ends you use, you still must use the fixture.

 

True but the OBX is a Helical LSD which is far superior. Basically like the Torsen in the 98 up ls1 cars only bigger and stronger. Or a Truetrac which is more expensive.

 

So there's another reason to go M/W, their jig, or fixture as you call it, must be a more excellent match to their housing ends than mix-n-match. I just hope I don't end up near the cost of a Kwik Perf 9-inch with a junkyard chunk.

 

But all far more costly than putting a rebuild kit in a 31 spline Traction-Lock. Doesn't matter that mine came with one, because it's only a 28 spline.

 

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...inch-rear-end/

 

While I'm not progressing on that, I've been looking at other 8.8 swaps for their torque arm solutions, and I got some cardboard to mock up some ideas. Today I'm picking up some 1/2" mild steel. I'm wanting a 3-piece slip-fit, well, 3 pieces after welding, not counting bolts and nuts, captured by the rear cover bolts and encircling the pinion snout. Overdo it and forget it. I hope.

 

 

 

 

 

Cool!
Is that a jeep comanche pickup?

 

Looks like a S10 to me.

 

S-10.
This torque arm bracket is looking to end up as several pieces of 1/4-inch mild steel welded together, getting the first piece figured out was great, even though it took me 3 attempts. The second piece is proving easier.

 

Do you plan to weld this to the housing or are you making it bolt on?

 

Thanks.

 

Probably bolt-on, as I'm uncertain about heat distortion. I don't want to be hurting pinion bearings, certainly. Plus then it could be transferred to another housing if necessary.
I'm sort of copying another old thread I found here. I forgot to note who gets the credit. But that wasn't a Mustang housing, and there were no plans to copy, so I have to figure out my own. Plus I do not agree with the way that person ground away the casting where I plan to separate the tube that holds the rear bolt. That should also help locate the bracket on the housing, if I make no mistake with drilling.
Why did you ask? Do you have a suggestion or some advice that might help? If so, please share.

 

I was only going to let you know that if you weld it you need to use nickel rod to join the steel to the cast iron. I would recommend bolting it on like your plan. There seems to be plenty of material there to bolt it to.

 

Thank you.

 

Injured my right shoulder and upper arm, so no progress.

 

Sorry to hear that after a solid thread start.

 

 

Why bother with a torque arm at all? I'm in the middle of doing another car for someone else, and have discovered the three-link suspension. Much like the '05-up 'stangs, the third link goes atop the diff, offset to the right side to counter the driveshaft torque.
Doing it to this other car is proving easy so far, once I drive it I may try the same on my '86 Camaro. First with my weak old 7.625" axle, and if that goes well, then with my 8.8"

 

True, but it is worth the extra money, and you won't have to rebuild it over and over again.

 

Here's me doing the third link to a 200-horse '83 RX-7 with the 7.625" axle from a '94 S-10 Blazer 4x4:





And here's someone else's progress in a '79-'95 RX-7:

 

But mine will have multiple holes for adjustability. The best tech about it is buried in this write-up by a real pro: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=42568

 

Damn I like that!