IroczFan

so i just Did a motor swap and put a 2300-2500 stall in finaly got to drive the car and I cant feel or see a diffrence in rpm from a stop or if I try to stall it up it breaks em loose before the stall point. never had a stall before so not sure what to think


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Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

2300/2400 stall is not very much above stock. GM used around 1400-1900 stall converters in most of the third gen, and even had stock 700r4 converters up to 2795 rpm in other stock apps.

With lower stall, tight converters it's hard to get a good foot brake stall on it as your engine will over power the tires before you get to the stall point.

The Flash stall is the major thing to look for, but again hard to tell with tires that spin. Flash stall is the RPM the engine jumps to as soon as you floor the throttle from a stop with no tire spin.

With a pretty much drag race style rear suspension, th-400, custom built 9.5" "3500" stall converter, ford 9" 3.89 gears and locker with Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials. I get a foot brake stall of about 2900/3000 RPM before the tires break loose. Flash stall I get about 3600 rpm

Chevy2035

It really depends on who made it. They do not all fall into spec.
I have a B&M 2500 stall (older one) that acts the exact same as the stock one.
I got a stock for a 98 s10 (same as Vette from factory) cost me 100$ with my discount at Advanced and it soon as my car hits 2000ish rpm the tires spin, But if i put transbrake on, It stays at 2250 till the launch. Plus it has 3 year warranty

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Converter is rated for higher power than the engine produces.

-- Joe

AlkyIROC

You'll never hit the stall point by holding the vehicle with the brakes. I can't even do that with the 6000 rpm stall converter in my race car. The only way to know the true stall speed of the converter is by using a transbrake.

Converter stall points differ depending what engine they're behind. A converter that stalls at 2200 behind one engine may stall at 2600 when put behind a different engine. The rated stall of a converter is only an estimate.

All converters slip. Below the stall speed, the fluid coupler is not 1:1 so it's slipping. Slipping creates heat so an aftermarket cooler is highly recommended for any non stock converter.

While driving around on the street, you're usually at or around the stall speed. Because converters slip, even from a dead stop all converters will get you moving with light throttle. The main purpose of a higher stall converter is to get the engine rpms up into the powerband quicker. The faster you get into the powerband, the faster the vehicle will be because that's where the engine is making it's best power. The downside is that when driving around below the stall speed, the converter will generate more heat plus because it's slipping, fuel mileage may suffer. Driving around at higher rpms above the stall speed will sure power better but the higher rpms will also use up more fuel.

It's a balancing act. You want lower rpms with OD transmissions etc to improve fuel economy but also want higher stall converters to better use power. There is no magic solution.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

My converter is 2800 stall. On level surface, my car won't even begin to think about rolling until I hit around 2400rpm in forward or reverse.

By 3000 my turbo is spooling and I'm hauling ***. Below 2400 I'm in neutral...

-- Joe

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I would send that converter back or find you a better unit. That's a very loose converter.

I have a custom built 9.5" 3500 stall on mine and at low rpm/speeds around town you would think it's almost stock. Heck I even get forward creep at my 950 rpm in drive idle speed.

Now my old crappy off the shelf 2800 stall was close to yours. I would have to rev to 1500-1800 rpm before it even wanted to move at all.

There is a difference in cheap converters, off the self converters and custom built to your car converters. I'll never go back to an off the self unit again. This one is so much better, much tighter around town and flashes just where it was said too

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Why send it back? Launches really nice. It's a 700hp car. With the previous setup I couldn't move the car without breaking the tires loose.

This was custom built.

-- Joe

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Hmm that just seems awful loose for a custom built converter.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Think so? I normally build manual cars, so I figured this was how stall converters are. ?

But yeah. I gotta rev quite a bit too move. Like I said though, by around 3200rpm it's making boost and haulin ***.

Right now it's track car with a reverse manual valve body hughes transmission. If it was a street car I'd probably have a different configuration and be more concerned with the slippage.

-- Joe

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yeah man, I think you should call your converter company and talk with a tech guy there.

That just seems way too loose for what it is. A 2800 stall should let you move forward in the 1X00 range. Even a loose one.

Now it could be possible, being yours is custom built, you told the company the same thing you said here "With the previous setup I couldn't move the car without breaking the tires loose" and they built the converter real loose like that to keep you from having those probs.

When I had mine built, I told them my combo, best ET (11.40's @ 118) and planned mods to get into the mid 10's and also told them the car is daily driven at that time.. So he said he would pitch the fins so it would be tighter around town but still flashed like I needed it too.