I have an 83 Trans Am with the manual clutch linkage and a T5. After one linkage breaking along with the mounting bracket that is underneath the brake booster, my father welded in his own type of bracket. This was at a time that I had no idea what was going on with it and what was right or wrong, so I'm not sure if this is right. In order for the clutch to disengage fully, we always have to adjust the pushrod way out so that there is a lot of tension on the clutch fork, as if it is almost always pushing on the teeth of the pressure plate. I'm wondering if there should be that amount of tension on the fork, let alone ANY tension? If there isn't supposed to be much, could this be due to the mounting bracket that was made for the linkage? If need be, how could I go about increasing the distance of travel in the push rod when the clutch pedal is pressed? Thankyou!

Other note, if I adjust the pushrod enough so the fork is not really tight, then the clutch pedal will not disengage the clutch

 

There is not supposed to be ANY TENSION WHATSOEVER on the linkage. It is supposed to be set such that the pedal has around ½ - ¾" of free play at the top. (i.e., you can lift the pedal that much farther, from where it naturally rests)

Sounds like you might want to check this.

 

I bet that's my problem. The previous bearing I can gurantee was installed that way and again it was when my father was doing a lot of the work and I had no idea of anything and I remember running into the problem of how the bearing goes into the fork and I can gurantee we decided on the wrong way! and now that I've Bern doing a new engine swap myself with the assistance of a friendfriend I never thought to check how the bearing really went on! I had him out the bearing on and mess with the fork so I bet he followed our bad example haha

The good part is I haven't gotten to drive more thanmaybe a mile with it like that thanks for the heads up!! I'll check if this is the solution and will update in a few days, thanks!

 

Good luck, fixing that usually takes care of tha tsort of problem.

Might want to consider changing it over to hydraulics. I did that to my 83 in about 86 or so, the very first time I came across a 84 in the junkyard. AMAZING how much better it is than that old Stone Age linkage crap.

 

I've considered doing a hydraulic setup and I'm sure I will eventually. Right now though it doesn't sound too fun or cheap. How difficult was it to get it done?

 

Pretty tough really; took the better part of a winter afternoon. Prolly from 1:30 or so to about 4. Brutal. My fingers even got cold at one point if memory serves. I HATE that.

 

Oh no, cold fingers I'll have to bring it into the shed I guess, no sunshine for me lol.

Well I searched a but about this because you convinced me slightly and I found the master and slave cylanders from AutoZone if I want them, and I would need to find a bellhhousing with the bracked for the slave and then get pedals with the bracket for the master and some hydrolic hose. Does that sound right? I never looked into it and it seems simple enough and budget friendly!

 

Yup, that's about it; although rather than buying the parts at AZ, you can buy the entire hydraulic system - reservoir, low-pressure line, MC, high-pressure line, and SC - pre-filled and pre-bled, at the GM store or maybe rockauto.com. The rest, just gank out of a carcass at yer local buzzard nest. Then all ya gotta do is enlarge the hole in the firewall the rod goes through a little bit and drill the 2 holes for the bolt thing.

 

No update so far, I haven't gotten a chance to start with the transmission as I'm encountering plenty of engine problems. Winter finally arrived here in central Illinois so it had to go in more permanent storage for now but maybe I'll get a chance in the coming weeks to work with it.