I know I can't use the actual transmission, but can I use every other part required such as the slave cylinder, shifter, console, pedals etc...etc?

 

Slave cylinder may not work, but there should be a new one in the clutch kit anyway. The V6 version may be smaller inside diameter. The rest is the same. Don't forget the clutch start safety switch, it wires the exact ssame as your automatic's neutral start safety switch. Purple and yellow wires, IIRC. If you have the 2-pc trans crossmember, then grab a 1-piece version while you're at the salvage yard.

 

Everything will swap except the bellhousing, clutch disc, flywheel, and pressure plate.

Master/slave cylinder, crossmember, pedals, throwout bearing, trans, shifter, console plate can all be used. You will need a clutch disc from an early 80's S10 V6. Bellhousing, flywheel, pressure plate need to be from a V8 thirdgen.

You may also need to cut about an 1/8" off the nose of the input shaft. I had to when I put my V6 trans behind my V8, but others have not had to.

 

Actually, you can use the transmission, so long as you treat it right.

I really recommend not using the salvaged master and slave. The hydraulics can be a bear to bleed properly once installed, and 30-year-old parts are just begging for a chance to leave you stranded. From what I've seen you can reuse the clutch line, but go ahead an put some heat shielding on it while its out. Get a new slave cylinder from Advance Auto Parts, as it is made of metal instead of plastic. Bench bleed your setup and install it as a unit and you'll save yourself ALOT of time and frustration.

Perfection Clutch has a video that shows (in real time) how quick and easy it is to bleed it:

 

Can I not use the master cylinder I'm using now?

 

The V6 and V8 clutch master cylinders are the same, if you already have one laying around (I thought your car was an auto?) That being said, if it is old, you'll be doing yourself a favor in getting a new one before bleeding the system.

If you are referring to the brake master cylinder in your last post, they are the same as well.

 

It's an auto. I was referring to the brake master cylinder. I didn't realize the way the brake and slave cylinders were integrated.

 

That's okay, we all learn what we need to when we need to. I can't stand those snobs that insult instead of educate their fellow member.

You won't have to worry about the brake system when doing the transmission swap, except for when you change the pedals. Leave the brake master cylinder attached to the lines and you'll be able to CAREFULLY move it enough to get the booster studs out of the firewall to facilitate swapping the pedal assemblies.

Having the booster out of the way will also make it easier to make the holes you'll need in the firewall for mounting the clutch master cylinder. I put my pedals in using only the top bolt to aid in locating where to drill (measure twice [or fifty times] and cut once). Use the donor car as a reference for clutch master/pedal orientation. Bleed the whole clutch hydraulic system on the bench, then install it as a unit. Once you're satisfied, reinstall the brake booster to finish up mounting the pedals and reattach the brake master cylinder to it (again, you should not have to open any brake lines). What makes this job difficult is working in the cramped space under the dash. The rest is relatively easy, and there are lots of us on here who have done it and are willing to share tips.

 

Thanks for the info. On another note, what happens to the computer? Seeing that it would be controlling the lock up converter on the 700R4, would I now have engine lights to deal with?

 

I believe you would get a light for that. However, I've read that changing the program tables in the computer is relatively simple with the right programmer. I personally don't know as I left mine alone since the computer no longer has any control over anything in my car.

 

The brake system has its own master cylinder, and the hydraulic clutch system has its own master cylinder. They are 2 separate units. They don't interconnect at all. The master for the clutch mounts to the firewall under the master/brake booster for the brakes. Once you pull the carpet up, you should see the outline of where the clutch master cylinder goes through the firewall as I believe it was stamped on all firewalls, and just not opened up for cars destined for an auto trans.

Also, it's really not that hard to bleed the clutch system on the car. Its the only way I've ever done it. Once you have the clutch master in place, fill the reservoir with fluid and reach under the car to where the slave is dangling. Push in the rod sticking out of the slave a few times, and you're done. Usually takes me 2-3 pushes till it's bled. Just watch the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't overflow on the first push, and that it doesn't run empty on the subsequent pushes. The clutch system uses regular brake fluid btw.

 

Advance auto sells metal versions of both master and slave cylinders. I got them for about $55 combined after coupons. Hopefully this slave will last, the last one started leaking a year after I upgraded the clutch.

 

Typing on an ipad plus crappy wireless signal equals double post

 

I wish my firewall was dimpled for the clutch master, but alas, it wasn't. Once I removed the pedal assembly from the donor car, I used a piece of cardboard to make a template. Even then I had to make some adjustments with a file. The good news is, the metal master cylinder has a generous foam pad to cover up the holes, provided you don't make them [I]too[I] ugly.

As for the u-bolt that mounts the cylinder, drill one hole exactly to size. Hold the u-bolt against the firewall to see where to drill the other hole. If you have to make adjustments to get the u-bolt to go through the firewall, use a file to slot ONLY ONE of the holes, not both, or else you'll end up with a sloppy mount.