im starting this thread to document my build of a diy dana 60 for my turbo car.
i have a good plan on this for mounting the tq arm , and my measurements say it will work but i need to get it under the car to be sure.

i should be starting on the entire project this week so stay tuned
the housing im starting with is a full floater out of a van

Any updates?

no my whole project is massively behind , this is going to end up being an over the winter project , as im still dealing with working the bugs out of my new engine and turbo setup

Atilla did a FF D60 under his '84 T/A, with the stock torque arm. Had it rolling around on 8-lug steel 16x6.5 C20 wheels even, do a search.
Have you considered the 9.75" from an Expedition?

What about a 9.5 from a 3/4 ton GM truck? They have 33 spline semi floating axles and the Eaton Posi is available for it.

The GM 9.5 has thicker, heavier tubes, which isn't necessary nor helpful, but easier to get to a GM 5 on 5 bolt circle thanks to the '90-'93 454SS sport truck option. Tallest gear is 3.23:1.
The Ford / Sterling 9.75 was also offered with a 5 lug, but is 34-spline, and has gearing down to 3.08:1
If you want the Camaro 5 on 4.75" bolt circle, both are easier than a FF Dana 60, with the advantage probably going to the 9.5 if you're cheap. But the FF D60 should sell for enough to get either of these SF axles. Also, the FF D60s were all 30-spline, not 35. The cost of converting to 35 makes the other 2 more appealing.
As for axle retention, the D60 doesn't need a c-clup eliminator or a change of housing ends, but your unsprung weight is rediculous.

since i already have the d60 im just going to do that im going to wack the ends of and convert it the proper way , with a bit of machining on the housing i should be able to weld on a pretty stout ta mount


i will admit the 8.8 swap is pretty apealing just dont think its strong enough for what im doing

Just remember that when you weld on cast iron you need to do it right. You can't MIG weld it with steel wire or stick weld it with 7018. You have to use nickel, and you have to preheat and cool slow.

i know how to weld it properly im a welder by trade, but i have seen what happens when ppl take out there mig and weld on cast

Good. I've seen a lot of people take their cars to the muffler shop and have the axle tubes welded to the center, not knowing that they wasted their time and money.

There are full-weight Mustangs putting 1500 HP through built 8.8s on drag slicks, the potential is there. At that level, shock-loading it will hurt the R&P, if you don't replace the R&P every year. Or every 500 passes, whatever works for you. If I wanted something better than an 8.8" or 9", but not a truck axle, I'd do a Mopar 9.25". They're mostly 31-spline, but unlike the 8.8 & 9", it's 12-bolt, not 10. And gearing goes down to 2.76:1 in late 70s cars, Ram 1500 gears go down to 3.21:1. Going to 35-spline / spool would take some work, but it can be done.