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Yes..
the bars are sold in a kit. With
cross member and gusets
subframe connectors
drive shaft safty loop
all bolts to go with the above
And instructions..
do not have any right know but looking for info before I begin this drive line project the only thing I found was control arms were did the kit come from that would be even better plans are 383 and turbo 400 Thanks
The kit came from Southside Machine Works. Not sure they're even still making those kits, AFAIK they largely retired from F bodies in general some time back and now only make stuff for 4-link cars. (A, B, G)
That used to be one of the more popular pure-race setups for these cars, back in the day... not real good on the street but effective at the strip.
Thanks guys emailed them to today waiting for a reply from what I can make of it just a rear cross member made up set of ladder bars and adjustable upper and lower control arms should do the trick cars going to be street/strip just something nice to drive and wail on
Spoke with SSM today after reading this post. They have no current plans to reproduce the subframes at this time because they think the market is flooded. They said 'their is a chance' they may start making the 'old school' type truck arms again.... The 'new' style lift arms they offer are boxed lower control arms along with a multi-position LCAB that replaces the OEM style bracket. The new brackets have 4 different mounting holes and welds in place of the original; not in addition to the original. Parts look really nice/well built, but unfortunately not the 'back in the day' old school setup.
Makes me bummed. The original SSM subframes were (and ARE) awesome. Work GREAT, simple to install, AND really 'price friendly'......
Thanks I will try to get in touch with them already have spohn tri-angulated sub frame connectors so I think I will make up a Cross member and loop and if I can not get bars try a set of ladder bars
I've had these on my car since about 2002. They're F'ing awesome.
The car launches completely straight and flat, and it carried the front wheels 8" off the ground with only ~450 RWHP with 1.6 short times every single pass (with a stick, too).
As all have said though, they don't make them anymore. When I got my 12 bolt in about 2004, I surgically removed them from the 10-bolt and enlarged the flanges for the 12 bolt axle tubes.
It's kind of an uncommon setup, which is cool, and it works the *****. It's NOT that complex though. If I get around to it, I'll take some measurements and you should be able to fabricate a decent set yourself, if you can sort out the subframes.
Hey that would be great if you did that let me know would like to get this thing rolling already got motor figured out so know on to rear end Thanks Guys
had my set installed when the car was brand new
pics taken. with car sitting in a small shop. locked away for over 10 years
over 10 years of dust....it's a barn find...lol
insides not as dusty. and car smell still working...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; May 1, 2016 at 04:50 PM.
These used to get tons of negative reactions from people. Interesting how they're not around on this board. I wonder what response you'd get on the organized racing board...
Tons more, but you mostly see the same people bashing and the same people supporting, so you dont really get anywhere.
Anyway, the torque arm setup is a really great suspension design. I dont see any need to reinvent the wheel here. Plenty of guys running 9 seconds or less on torque arm suspensions. They're probably slightly better suited for road racing, but it doesnt change the fact that there's TONS of 3rd and 4th gen F-bodies running extremely fast 60 foot times on factory torque arm suspensions.
I have a hard time seeing how this is a "better" design for anything, but Im sure in certain situations it can be made to work. The point is, dont bother being bummed out because you cant go through all the hassle and trouble of trying to buy a weird suspension setup that was fabricated instead of engineered. They probably have their place, but I wouldnt feel like I was missing out.
What problem are you trying to solve by ditching the factory suspension design?
Last edited by InfernalVortex; May 2, 2016 at 10:41 PM.
These used to get tons of negative reactions from people. Interesting how they're not around on this board. I wonder what response you'd get on the organized racing board...
Tons more, but you mostly see the same people bashing and the same people supporting, so you dont really get anywhere.
Anyway, the torque arm setup is a really great suspension design. I dont see any need to reinvent the wheel here. Plenty of guys running 9 seconds or less on torque arm suspensions. They're probably slightly better suited for road racing, but it doesnt change the fact that there's TONS of 3rd and 4th gen F-bodies running extremely fast 60 foot times on factory torque arm suspensions.
I have a hard time seeing how this is a "better" design for anything, but Im sure in certain situations it can be made to work. The point is, dont bother being bummed out because you cant go through all the hassle and trouble of trying to buy a weird suspension setup that was fabricated instead of engineered. They probably have their place, but I wouldnt feel like I was missing out.
What problem are you trying to solve by ditching the factory suspension design?
You're welcome to come for a hole-shot in my car any time you want, if you want to see why it's worth it.
If you want to go drag racing, these were among the best setups there were, short of a full-blown four-link, as this is basically kind of a pseudo-four-link as is. It just doesn't require a complete re-fabrication of the back half. If you're going to back-half the car anyway, get yourself a four link by all means.
You should also keep in mind that there is a reason most people do this stuff, and that reason is almost never "because the factory design that everyone else has is good enough, so I'll just stick with that layout."
Thanks for the info Articwhite that is what I am looking for cannot see cutting car up for a back half if I was going to go that far I would just cut the whole floor out and put a full chassis that way all suspension would be adjustable like your thinking set it, weld it, and forget it
I used them back in the days in my 91z with a 9" rear. They were nice piece. The only down side for me is they have to be welded and as soon to install them is no room to play the the angle of the rear end.
You should also keep in mind that there is a reason most people do this stuff, and that reason is almost never "because the factory design that everyone else has is good enough, so I'll just stick with that layout."
I am in complete disagreement with you. The reason most people do things is to have shiny parts. This is evidenced by the lack of any real engineering in 90 percent of the parts available to us. It's the same reason people buy "chips" and "cold air intakes".
I am in complete disagreement with you. The reason most people do things is to have shiny parts. This is evidenced by the lack of any real engineering in 90 percent of the parts available to us. It's the same reason people buy "chips" and "cold air intakes".
You're not completely wrong here, but that's an unproveable, unfounded blanket statement.
Yes, there are shitty parts out there, but when you say lack of "real engineering" I'm not sure what you mean. Because there are lots of parts (these included) that certainly have "real engineering."
Looking back to engineering school, there were lots of people who thought "real engineering" meant spiffy cad files and lots of Solid Works models. But they didn't know how to actually build anything.
"Real engineering" is building something that works, based on sound principles and testing. These absolutely fit that bill, and were really well made, to boot. We have several cars just in this thread that prove that. These aren't the only way to do it of course, but they do work and they are far, far, far better than the factory torque-arm for drag racing. Aftermarket torque arms are great too, especially for road racing, but I can't recall anyone intentionally building a drag rear suspension based on one.
My car used to carry the front wheels 10" off the ground with a naturally aspirated 460hp small block. If that's not good enough, I'd like to know what is.
they work. when installed right.. with a car that makes power. that's the bottom line.. I like them and will keep them until I back half my car...(been running them for 25 years) work 100% have installed 4 sets on others back in the 90s and they like them...
a lot of shade tree racers hack install them was the prob...just sayn.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; May 5, 2016 at 07:14 PM.
You're not completely wrong here, but that's an unproveable, unfounded blanket statement.
Yes, there are shitty parts out there, but when you say lack of "real engineering" I'm not sure what you mean. Because there are lots of parts (these included) that certainly have "real engineering."
Looking back to engineering school, there were lots of people who thought "real engineering" meant spiffy cad files and lots of Solid Works models. But they didn't know how to actually build anything.
"Real engineering" is building something that works, based on sound principles and testing. These absolutely fit that bill, and were really well made, to boot. We have several cars just in this thread that prove that. These aren't the only way to do it of course, but they do work and they are far, far, far better than the factory torque-arm for drag racing. Aftermarket torque arms are great too, especially for road racing, but I can't recall anyone intentionally building a drag rear suspension based on one.
I talk about them from running them...and facts..
My car used to carry the front wheels 10" off the ground with a naturally aspirated 460hp small block. If that's not good enough, I'd like to know what is.
a lot of guys talk about them that have never run them...lol. its the ..this one time at Band camp ...thing...lol
love my hole shot with them... the car would just hook. 10" to 15" wheels up. every time with just a foot brake. even doing a dryhop before staging...lol guys would just look over and go...WTF.
I have installed them on brand new cars.. I have installed them on 7.5 rear ends and on 9" rear ends.. they work!
I talk about them from running them..and from Facts.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; May 5, 2016 at 07:31 PM.
a lot of guys talk about them that have never run them...lol. its the ..this one time at Band camp ...thing...lol
love my hole shot with them... the car would just hook. 10" to 15" wheels up. every time with just a foot brake. even doing a dryhop before staging...lol guys would just look over and go...WTF.
I have installed them on brand new cars.. I have installed them on 7.5 rear ends and on 9" rear ends.. they work!
I talk about them from running them..and from Facts.
It's one of my favorite parts of the car because it's not that common and it just works. It's amazing how STRAIGHT it comes off the line, too. All you have to do is set it up square with a decent pinion angle.
It's one of my favorite parts of the car because it's not that common and it just works. It's amazing how STRAIGHT it comes off the line, too. All you have to do is set it up square with a decent pinion angle.
I loved mine too. If I can buy another set for my next fbody I buy them in a heartbeat. The poeple who used them in the past can appreciate how they work.
Thanks Guys I guess I started something with these bars hope I can find a set or from pics make a set and go trial and error hopefully in 2 weeks I can get back to work on this car Wife's to do list is almost done so that means I can get back to garage and car
Thanks for the info hopefully soon I will get to finding a set or measurements so I can make a set and put them on, car is sitting on stands know waiting to block and re -primed I think these bars will help on combo I have 383 500+ turbo 400 and 4 10's Thanks again
