Performed a t56 swap from a 93 camaro I basically followed the sticky here in this forum. I was able to get everything installed and was able to drive the car for a month prior to storage the only issue is it grinds in and out of third so i know i have a syncro to replace. (3 years ago)

Parts:
Mcleod street twin clutch
Mcleod adjustable master
T56 from 93 camero
pro 5.0 shifter

Now after pulling out of storage when the engine is running it won't go into any gear.

I have good pedal pressure.
I don't have any leaks.
I pumped the pedal 100+ times
No bubbles coming into the resevoir when pumping pedal.
I topped off the fluid
Pulled the slave cylinder off an confirmed it moves when the pedal is depressed.
I confirmed the fork is properly mated to the throw out bearing.

I believe i'm getting proper clutch disengagement (or travel), reason being if I adjust the master rod all the way out an push the clutch. The clutch assembly hits the bell housing and the starter can't turn the motor over. Thoughts?

With engine off and clutch to the floor, if i let the car roll I should be able to put the trans into any gear. When i try to engage a gear I can feel the gears meshing and once they do the car stops rolling.

I'm at a lose as to what to look for next, I would like to explore all options before pulling the trans as that is a pain.

 

Your post doesn't indicate that you did the correct bleed method for the 93-97 hydraulics:
Video here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ydraulics.html

If that fails you:
Loosen the 8 trans.-bell bolts enough to set washers as shims in between the trans. and bell and snug 4 of those back up. Do it in a way that keeps the trans. evenly spaced out.

If the clutch releases then you know the clutch release PP distance requirement is off, the disc. is too thick, or the flywheel is too thick. Besides machining or replacing those, you can sometimes fix it by machining the underside of the fork tee. If you found 0.100" shims fixed it, machine that off the tee.

The "clutch assembly hits the bellhousing" is likely the fork hitting the pressure plate.

 

Went through this myself. I ended up adding material to the clutch fork pads instead of trimming the pivot. Same end result though.

 

I appreciate the responses

jmd - I bench bleed the system when i originally put the system in and the down side is I have no bleeder screws. I will revisit bleeding prior to yanking the tranny. This video represents how i bench bleed and will emulate the same in the car tonight.
Thanks for the tip on spacing the tranny to get a peek at the assembly.

This morning I put the car in 1st, pushed the clutch in and cranked the motor over the car jumped forward. I'm thinking with the humidity and temp changes here in MN along with my garage floor not being sealed the discs sucked up moisture and rusted to the plates and fly wheel.

 

Bleeding didn't bear any fruit going to pull the tranny tomorrow.

 

I put washers between the trans and the bellhousing the clutch doesn't release. Although with open headers I'll have to fire it tomorrow. Rolling it manually the clutch doesn't release.
I spoke with McLeod and I said it's very possible the discs are rusted to the flywheel and the pressure plate.

 

re: rust,
Pull the slave.
Set up a bridge puller. Retain it with the two slave cylinder studs.
Thread it in until the clutch does release.
Quick, easy, and puts to rest the question of rust.

 

The disks were rusted to the flywheel and the pressure plate.