BHR

had the 700r4 in my 92 z28 rebuilt and had the trans shop install probuiltautomatics streetstrip shift kit while they were at it

prior to rebuilt kickdown to first would occur at 25-30mph wont occur till 20mph and lower now. installed original tv spring (original was longer than red) removed aluminum washer behind spring (instructions say for diesel?) to no avail kickdowns still occur at 20mph and slower

what i dont get is that WOT upshifts from 1st to 2nd still occur at 52-5500 rpms so i dont understand why the downshift needs more room than before anyone know what changes from the shift kit would affect this? maybe the new transgo tv valve? havent changed this yet as involves the VB to be removed

also a bigger problem i have is that while in 3rd gear either when in manual D or overdrive the TC locks and unlocks while accelerating, even at WOT in 3rd the rpms climb then all of a sudden it locks and the rpms drop i unplugged the sensor on trans and 3rd is fine so i know its TC related

anybody got ideas before i bring it back to trans shop? the other change was a 2400 stall 12 inch convertor built from my stock convertor by a local convertor shop that the trans guy recommended could the converter be slipping? would a higher stall affect downshift speeds?

the convertor does feel a little loose compared to my stocker needs gas in reverse to move car even on slight incline or when front wheels are turn on flat surface

i only have two switches on the VB theres no temp switch or 3rd gear pressure switch just the TCC solenoid and 4th gear pressure could the switch be faulty? since there no 3rd pressure switch how is the trans locking up in3rd gear?

Pro Built Automatics

From your description, they did not follow my instructions here. If they did not install the Red TV spring and shim "as per instructions".. Using the "original TV spring" is not in my instructions. And leaving out the shim is not in my instructions either. What else did they not do, or did their way??? I think if you tell them you are having a problem, they will blame this kit you had them install here. I hate it when these shops think they know these transmissions, some do, but the vast majority do not. If they would follow directions... they might learn something! From what I have seen over the years, TransGo does not take into account that the "original TV spring" has lost tension. I have compared hundreds of these original TV springs against the TransGo Red TV spring, and the vast majority of the time the TransGo Red TV spring is stiffer. And that is what you want and using the TransGo TV valve for response. Let me know what you find out?

BHR

the transmission shop followed the instructions correctly washer and red spring where installed they even installed the 2 allen bolts to block the sleeve for 3-4 WOT upshift

they have me scheduled to drop the car off in 3 weeks since they did the rebuild as a bench job i brought the trans to them off the car

while i was waiting i thought id try to figure out the cause of my issues myslef so i myself reinstalled the original white tv spring no washer no transgo spacer in the spring and remove the allen bolts to see if that would help put my first gear downshift at the mph it was prior to the rebuild and shift kit install

before i start messing with governor springs and weights (which i dont understand why i would need to modify my stock governor as it functioned well before the rebuilt and shift kit and my WOT shift are still in the same 52-55rpm range for 1-2 2-3)

i was assuming that the TG spring washer and spacer combination was causing a short or long tv spring syndrome since my original tv spring was slightly longer and a few of the 700r4 TG instructions ive seen online state to reuse old tv spring if its longer then red and that the washer was for diesel applications

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/part3.php

16:12 of video

Pro Built Automatics

Did you remove the 2 Allen screws that block the sleeve for 3-4 WOT upshift. You can do this without removing the valve body. What happened, when you did this? Remember, this kit combines the 700-2-3 and the TransGo Junior. In the 700-2-3 original instructions, you add two washers to the red spring in TV system. I add one to the "pre measured" red spring. After doing this many hundreds of times, I have found that the one red spring, one aluminum washer and two spacers inside the red spring offered the best chance for a good working TV system.

BHR

i haven not dropped the VB and dont plan too never drop or installed one, do not know whats involved and how difficult it is to get it back on but i fear i may have to seeing as the the rest of the springs involve removing the VB

yes i did i also put everything back but the allen screws as i dont want that feature motor makes more or about 300 whp (read that the mod is not recomend when making more than 250hp and would much rather have the car downshift to 3rd at higher speeds but still kept the screws in case i ever needed it

nothing changed with the downshift points when using original tv setup so i concluded that the TV setup was not at fault

the trans shop has the copy of your instructions of the S/S shift kit need to get that back to tinker with the rest of it b/c the shop was nice enough to give me all my old springs and valves back. doesnt look like there is much more that could affect the shift points. prior to the rebuild though the trans had a blocked (double stacked) 2nd accumulator and the billet super 2nd gear servo could changing from them lower WOT downshift speeds?

i was able to remedy the TC locking and unlocking while in 3rd i swapped the 4th gear pressure switch im assuming the one in was faulty it was noticeable damage the plastic was alomost ozing out in the center but still ohmed and worked well in 4th gear

i still have lock up feature in 3rd while in 3rd and if i press the brakes i can see the rmps jump up slightly dont know how this trans is locking in 3rd when all i have is one single prong pressure switch and the solenoid no temp switch either is this normal for a 1992 VB it does have the skeleton gov with diamond weights

BHR

here are the pics of what i have from the trans after the rebuild besides the hard parts like band shell planets clutches ect

BHR

do not know what the 3 springs are or go in the 6th pic the next pic down is the same 3 springs but next to a familiar object to show there relation size and length

would the double stacked accu or billet super servo affect in raising or lowering downshift points? what about the old line bias valve and unknown 3 springs?

BHR

also noticed that the 4th gear lock up now occurs at 35mph instead of 40mph it was prior i believe this has something to do with why it wont kick down to 1st above 20mph

BHR

UPDATE

on the TCC originally the 4th gear pressure was faulty a crack in the housing of the switch would cause the convertor to unlock and lock erratically in 3rd gear swapped it out for another switch

initially it did remedy the erratic lock up issues but it still didnt seem quite right so i bought a new switch as the second switch was one that i had lying around this time though i bought a normally closed switch instead acdelco part number 8683502

this switch made the TCC work perfectly compared to the normally open switch i believe the 5.7 proms for the tpi third gen cars need the normally closed switch as the acdelco 8642473 state that they are for 5.0 tpi and tbi cars

as for raising the downshift shift points i lighten up the governor springs on both sides i used the blue and red springs from B&M with a 1993 4l60 fbody governor this is the same governor as the skeleton open weight found in the third gens but the outter weights are not wide open they just have the small hole found in every other governor this gives me a 3-1 shift point at a max 27mpm with a 1-2 WOT at just under 6000 and a WOT 2-3 at 5500 not exactly what i wanted but theres not much else i can do w/o messing up either lower the mph of the downshift point or raising the WOT to above 6000

i was able to get the instructions for the transgo shift and believe i have found where the other 3 springs go to, the accumulator valve, line bias valve, and the original 3-2 control valve that gets replaced with transgos new valve and plug after the valvebody is drilled

i dont think i can go back as it would require the VB to come off and the holes to be pluged up in the VB its just to much trouble

for future 700r4 rebuilds i will not be using transgo shift kits or any shift kit the requires the VB to modified as none of the components make the shifts firmer they are shift correctors from what i can see

and to my knowledge from all the 700r4 and newer 4l60 that i have either owned at one point or driven i never had any of the problems TG claims to correct sticky TV valve, holding gears manually to any rpm (every newer 700r i drove does this when manually shifting) late shifts, no lock up, early shifts ect. if you have these problems you need a rebuild lol

the only mods and updates i will use for future 700 builds will be the bigger boost valves .500 .296, sonnax super hold servo, aswell as there 4th billet piece, beast sunshell, and sonnaxs stiffer accumulator spring for firmer part throttle shifts cause as it stands now i driven stock 4cyl auto hondas that shift firmer at part throttle than TGs accumulator set up

BHR

UPDATE

i decided to go try and see if i could fix/ or put back the downshift points they way they where i ut the stock springs back in the gov. i was able to remove the VB and leave the auxiliary in so that the separator plate gasket and check ***** still stayed on the trans it was pretty easy to do

the first thing i decided to do was put back the original tv valve while i was doing this i noticed that the the TG would need the plunger to be depressed to where there was 1 rib showing to be fully pushed back into the VB with the original tv valve and just a tapered spring it wouldnt need to be depressed this much only about 3 ribs showing on the plunger

put everything back on there was only one plastic check ball that needs to be in place on the VB during install took it out for drive still no downshift to first under 30

what i didnt notice was that it would come out of lock up easier while above 40mph prior i would need to go more than 3/4 throttle while highway driving for it to come out of lock up and either go to 3rd or 4th now it seems to be "normal" in that if i need to get going i can give it a bit of throttle and it gets out of lock up

thats the only thing i noticed i will be keeping my original tv valve setup now on to another change to see if i can get this thing back like it was im thinking maybe putting back the original torque convertor and or putting back the superior servo curently it has a 12 inch 2400 stall and TGs vette servo setup with all the cushion springs and spacers

BHR

UPDATE

completely removed VB again this time along with separator plate

this time i wanted to fully go back to stock all that was left was removing transgos line bias spring, transgos accumulator valve spring, installing shorter stock accumulator housing with stock single spring setup, drilling out plug in case, reinstalling check ball in case capsule, reinstall stock 3-2 down shift valve, SP plate, and 3 holes to be plugged up in VB, put all check ***** back in all there stock locations

what i noticed once i had everything out and compared to my stock stuff was that the trans go separator plate was missing a hole near the center and that a few holes where larger

i later discover that these holes are feed holes and band release i noticed that most other shift kits enlarge these same holes so i didnt want to reuse my stock plate that had smaller feed holes and didnt think this was the cause of my problem since i have a 700r4s with superiors shift kit and they kick down easy

so i made the transgo plate look just like my stock plate by removing plugs and drilling the hole near the middle that i later found out was for the line bias vale and the trans manual labels it as detent but left the feed hole alone

so i reverted all back to stock mention above except for the blocked 4th accumulator i also used all steel check ***** this time but used one plastic for the auxiliary VB as i didnt have any more steel ***** left

took it out for a spin and still no downshift to 1st under 30mph needs to be below 21mph 3-2 also needs to be below 50mph went back home then took it out again later on that same day and noticed now that in manual D and 2 it would downshift perfectly to 1st at 29mph and below and 3-2 at 56mph and below with a little bit more driving with the selector in 4th the 3-1 kick down finally moved up to 26mph

i dont know why its able to downshift in manual 3 and 2 at a higher mph than in 4th but im heading in the right direction maybe the steel check ***** still need to seat in transgos separator plate or maybe b/c i dont have the piston spring and pin in the 4th accumulator, reinstalling the piston pin and spring is next to do as both b&m and superior both block the 4th accumulator but both also state to reinstall the piston also need to get one more steel check ball for the auxiliary