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What is everyone doing about the tcc after removing the computer. I have a carbed 383 stroker going back into the car. Wondering if its worth to use the tcc or just leave it disconnected. The car will used on the street/strip.
Wire a manual toggle switch to the TTC. Don't forget to switch it off before coming to a stop or it will stall. Or just disconnect it and don't use lock up
My last car I went from TPI to carb and never did wire the tcc back. I never had issues but I didn't daily drive the car either. Made a few 100 mi trips though and a good many passes at the track. In saying that as a $100 insurance id probably go ahead and wire it up to a switch like Bob mentioned for long highway trips if nothing else.
Thanks Tuned Performance. I found a post were i can put a vacuum actuator on it like a vacuum modulator that will lock it while cruising then unlock when WOT. It can also be locked in VIA a toggle switch and turn off when pressing the brake. Sounds a little complicated but once i lay it all out it shouldnt be to hard.
I thought about the lock-uo kit through monster but I wanna make sure that it will disengage when slowing down just in case I leave the switch turned on. There is a how to to make it vacuum operated and also work with the brake switch. There was a post about it let me see if I can find it.
Wire a manual toggle switch to the TTC. Don't forget to switch it off before coming to a stop or it will stall. Or just disconnect it and don't use lock up
would you just wire the switch to give 12volts to terminal A?
would you just wire the switch to give 12volts to terminal A?
Referring to the diagram above, the way I read it, you already have +12 volts at terminal A via the brake switch. All you need to do is connect to pin F at your ALDL connector which connects directly to that tan/blk wire (D on trans connector). Run a wire from pin F to your added switch with the other end connected to ground. The brake switch will automatically unlock the TCC when you apply the brakes.
Referring to the diagram above, the way I read it, you already have +12 volts at terminal A via the brake switch. All you need to do is connect to pin F at your ALDL connector which connects directly to that tan/blk wire (D on trans connector). Run a wire from pin F to your added switch with the other end connected to ground. The brake switch will automatically unlock the TCC when you apply the brakes.
i have never wired a switch to complete a ground so this is probably a stupid question and i am probably over thinking this.
i have a 3 prong switch i can use. the 3 poles are labeled POWER-ACC-GROUND.
would i just take the wire from terminal F from the ALDL and connect it to the ACC switch pole then wire the GROUND switch pole to a chassis ground? and leave the POWER pole alone correct?
this is a lighted switch. is the POWER switch pole only for the light in the switch?
i have never wired a switch to complete a ground so this is probably a stupid question and i am probably over thinking this.
i have a 3 prong switch i can use. the 3 poles are labeled POWER-ACC-GROUND.
would i just take the wire from terminal F from the ALDL and connect it to the ACC switch pole then wire the GROUND switch pole to a chassis ground? and leave the POWER pole alone correct?
this is a lighted switch. is the POWER switch pole only for the light in the switch?
see attached pic.
The ground is so that your light will work on the switch
Ok so cut the wire going to terminal f on the aldl. Connect one side to power and the other side to the acc terminal and connect that to a chassis ground?
Last edited by 91 camaro racer; 03-28-2018 at 01:49 PM.
I see were you are talking Terminal F at the aldl. Thats were I figure it ties into. My car doesnt have anymore of that wiring left in it so I am gonna send power rite to the plug at the trans at terminal D in which thats were terminal F is tied into.
That switch you have normally switches +12v and the ground you provide to it lights the bulb inside. Right now I'm not sure if you can accomplish the same thing by switching ground instead.
Assuming your brake switch wiring is still present and working, +12v should already be present at terminal A of the trans plug. This also assumes that your car's wiring matches the diagram above. To complete the circuit, you need to provide a ground (through a switch) to terminal D to complete the circuit. If the ALDL connector is still present, then you can use the wire on pin F to connect to since it connects to pin D on the trans connector.
Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 03-29-2018 at 08:27 PM.
That switch you have normally switches +12v and the ground you provide to it lights the bulb inside. Right now I'm not sure if you can accomplish the same thing by switching ground instead.
Assuming your brake switch wiring is still present and working, +12v should already be present at terminal A of the trans plug. This also assumes that your car's wiring matches the diagram above. To complete the circuit, you need to provide a ground (through a switch) to terminal D to complete the circuit. If the ALDL connector is still present, then you can use the wire on pin F to connect to since it connects to pin D on the trans connector.
Tried this today and it didn't work. Tapped into terminal f and connected the other wire from the switch to a ground. Went for a drive and flipped the switch. Rpms didn't change at all. Will mess with it again tonight.
Also looked at my brake pedal, the switch for the tcc 12v is still there. I will make sure that is sending voltage as well.
03-21-2018, 07:20 AM
