Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Bear with me on this

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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 12:18 AM
  #1  
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
Bear with me on this

Hey guys have a question for you. I built my car 12 years ago. The set up is a 383 TPI with a T56 swap. I cant remember which T56 it is (think its a richmond) but i am using an adapter plate with a scattered shield. I do remember something about the custom driveshaft being made 1-7/8" either shorter or longer. Well my question is that i always had a problem with the car shifting. It is so hard to shift into any gear which makes the car no fun to drive. I am looking to get the car back on the road but would really like to know why it shifts like this. One garage that i had it at was saying the tranny is most likely bad. This was a new tranny that was purchased and not a used one. The clutch set up is a Mcloud twin disc with a TKO sifter and using a stock slave set up from a 4th gen. I am thinking that the TO bearing is not engaging far enough causing my issue. Any thoughts on this?
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 06:11 AM
  #2  
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
Re: Bear with me on this

To diagnose this over the internet is difficult. You really need to understand how the transmission works, and then feel it with that knowledge, to pinpoint conditionals.

We can still discuss basics
1. how does it shift when the engine is off? IF its very hard to shift with the engine not even turning, that might indicate a problem in the trans itself
2. How are you adjusting the clutch. Did you use the factory service manual method?
3. Is it hydraulic throwout bearing or does it use a traditional hydraulic fork? Know your hardware and how to adjust it

Alright, in operation when the clutch is turning with the pressure plate, the trans will never want to shift. That is why you 'step' on the clutch pedal, it pulls the clutch off the PP and allows the clutch to stop turning. Because the clutch is attached to the input shaft of the transmission, and you need the input shaft to stop spinning (pretty much) to shift a gear, even from neutral.
So for example if you sitting in neutral and then step on the clutch, then try to put it into 1st, does it take a long time to go into 1st? Difficult to get into 1st no matter how long you wait? Does it roll the car forward while trying to get into 1st? These are all signs of a dragging clutch. It means the clutch isn't able to stop turning. This could be an adjustment issue, or an installation issue (clearances or shims could be involved)

That should start things
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 06:29 AM
  #3  
smokefan's Avatar
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
Re: Bear with me on this

its a little hard to shift when its off. It has a fork an throw out bearning. Cant remember how i adjusted it seeing it was so so many years ago but i know i didnt use a service manual to adjust it. I think i must of read it on-line to adjust it.

When i am in netural and shift it into first yes it takes sometime and its hard to get into first. Its always hard to get it into gear no matter how long. Car doesn't roll when trying to get it into gear
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 10:04 AM
  #4  
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Re: Bear with me on this

I am thinking that the TO bearing is not engaging far enough causing my issue. Any thoughts on this?
You say you've got a traditional fork and throw out bearing, right? -and a scattershield? .....when I swapped my t5 for a TKO, I also purchased a Lakewood bell/scattershield, and I had shifting problems. I had to purchase an adjustable fork pivot to change the geometry. -worked like a charm after that.
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 10:10 AM
  #5  
Kingtal0n's Avatar
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
Re: Bear with me on this

Yes very likely a geometry / throw / adjustment issue. That seems to be very common when changing parts from OEM.

For some transmissions, it is possible to hear the input shaft spinning (or not spinning) if you remove the sound deadener materials around the shifter to expose the "hole" area. I am not sure your car has this though, its just a thought.
because on cars where you can remove the center stuff and really listen to the transmission, you can step on the clutch and REALLY HEAR the input shaft slow down and stop. It gives you a clue as to how long it takes, and whether it actually stops or not.
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 10:50 AM
  #6  
smokefan's Avatar
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From: Connecticut
Car: 86 IROC w/Danko bodykit, 1988 iroc vert, 1989 k1500 pickup 6" lift and 35" tires, 2002 chevy tahoe z71
Engine: 383 stealth ram, 305 tpi, 350 tbi, 5.3l
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, 4l460
Re: Bear with me on this

I’m thinking it’s an adjustment thing since the scattersheild and adapter plate changes the distance. You can’t hear anything over the exhaust as far as hearing the input shaft spinning
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Old Jun 23, 2019 | 12:02 PM
  #7  
Kingtal0n's Avatar
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20 Year Member
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
Re: Bear with me on this

Ah ha, I forget about the exhaust, you silly performance enthusiasts. All my cars are quiet so it slips my mind now.
Speaking of which, I mean. The trick to that is using OEM exhaust + cutout w/ aux system. It's a stealthy deathly silence and with the press of a wireless remote absolutely horrifically violent flames and noise whenever you want.
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