TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member




Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 816
From: Colorado USA
Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
Engine: 350 with L-69 components
Transmission: 700R-4, 2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
How difficult is it to replace the TCC solenoid in a 700R-4? Mine has failed the "click test"...
Re: TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
Easy. Dump the pan, then two bolts hold the solenoid in. Remove the bolts and it just pops out, O-ring seal. Depending on the setup, there can be about three wire connectors plugged into various switches in the valve body. Once the switches are disconnected, there's a push on connector at the 'bulkhead' connector that sticks out the top and connects to the engine harness. Just unplug the wires, and it'll come out. There's also a tube that runs from one part of the trans to the other that has to come out, IIRC, but again it's just a couple bolts holding clips that retain the tube. It's been decades since I did one, but it's easy.
Edit, of course I suppose it depends on what part you're using. The OEM solenoid and harness snakes around, so more has to come apart...

Some aftermarket setups just have you cut and splice the wires, which would save some time I suppose.
Edit, of course I suppose it depends on what part you're using. The OEM solenoid and harness snakes around, so more has to come apart...

Some aftermarket setups just have you cut and splice the wires, which would save some time I suppose.
Last edited by Drew; Jul 9, 2019 at 10:41 PM.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,917
Likes: 326
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
can you explain "the click test"?
I do not want to change the op's topic, so I'm just explaining my conditions here and if someone has insight let me know:
I might look into a different method to control lockup. When i got my trans back from ProBuilt Automatics and installed it last March the converter was "told" to be locked up almost all the time. my 1-2 shift resulted in a VERY jerkey movement every time, rpms were different at cruising speeds that I was used to, and when I would press the brakes the rpm's would drop (unlocking converter via brake switch?). I drove around most of the year like this and emailed dana at ProBuilt about setting up a toggle switch and he agreed, that while the converter locked up isn't optimal, its not hurting anything with a low horsepower/torque car like mine. he also said a toggle switch would be just fine. so this winter I cut the pink wire to the brake light switch and ran wires to my old unused fog light switch in the dash. now even though the converter is locked up as it was before, I keep it unlocked 95% of the time driving, until i press the toggle switch and lock it up while cruising for long distances on stretches of highway. I might try this "click" test, and eventually replace my TCC wiring with something like the kits TCI and others sell... since i feel this is "kind of" a hack way of conducting business. This toggle switch has worked fantastically all of 2019, I can unlock and relock it at a moments notice.
I do not want to change the op's topic, so I'm just explaining my conditions here and if someone has insight let me know:
I might look into a different method to control lockup. When i got my trans back from ProBuilt Automatics and installed it last March the converter was "told" to be locked up almost all the time. my 1-2 shift resulted in a VERY jerkey movement every time, rpms were different at cruising speeds that I was used to, and when I would press the brakes the rpm's would drop (unlocking converter via brake switch?). I drove around most of the year like this and emailed dana at ProBuilt about setting up a toggle switch and he agreed, that while the converter locked up isn't optimal, its not hurting anything with a low horsepower/torque car like mine. he also said a toggle switch would be just fine. so this winter I cut the pink wire to the brake light switch and ran wires to my old unused fog light switch in the dash. now even though the converter is locked up as it was before, I keep it unlocked 95% of the time driving, until i press the toggle switch and lock it up while cruising for long distances on stretches of highway. I might try this "click" test, and eventually replace my TCC wiring with something like the kits TCI and others sell... since i feel this is "kind of" a hack way of conducting business. This toggle switch has worked fantastically all of 2019, I can unlock and relock it at a moments notice.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member




Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 816
From: Colorado USA
Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
Engine: 350 with L-69 components
Transmission: 700R-4, 2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Re: TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
I was referring to the fact that my TCC solenoid is not working and needs to be replaced. I'll send you a P.M to show you what I'm talking about...
Re: TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
Knew mine was bad because the engine would stall coming to a stop. Seem to remember it popped the fuse, and may have set a check engine light. Drove around awhile with the harness unplugged from the brake pedal switch as a work-around. Ended up pulling the solenoid out of another junk 700R4 I had laying around, swapped it in, and it cleared it right up.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,917
Likes: 326
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
Interesting. thanks guys.So, perhaps I have a dead/defective soleniod then? however....If it failed though, my toggle switch "work-around" wouldnt work, right??. since using it I can manually lock and unlock the converter at a moments notice? if it is a failed solenoid, I can just take the one out of my old (roasted) 700r4 that came stock in the car in 87.
I'd think that it still works though, and that the wiring is semi-correct since I can still manually lock and unlock it. This only happened after I got the trans back from ProBuillt Automatics for a repair,refresh, upgrade ...so perhaps something was overlooked?. its a minor issue so. I'm not mad or anything at all. Just would like to solve it and have it be correct. probably install that TCC kit that T.L. sent me a message about when the trans comes out in december during the new 406 sbc engine swap
to be honest, I do like being able to keep it unlocked, and then manually hit the switch while cruising around 60mph and lock it up. Dana told me it would be fine and not hurt anything, and I trust his advice
I'd think that it still works though, and that the wiring is semi-correct since I can still manually lock and unlock it. This only happened after I got the trans back from ProBuillt Automatics for a repair,refresh, upgrade ...so perhaps something was overlooked?. its a minor issue so. I'm not mad or anything at all. Just would like to solve it and have it be correct. probably install that TCC kit that T.L. sent me a message about when the trans comes out in december during the new 406 sbc engine swap
to be honest, I do like being able to keep it unlocked, and then manually hit the switch while cruising around 60mph and lock it up. Dana told me it would be fine and not hurt anything, and I trust his advice
Thread Starter
Supreme Member




Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 816
From: Colorado USA
Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
Engine: 350 with L-69 components
Transmission: 700R-4, 2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Re: TCC Solenoid Replacement?...
Okay, replaced the TCC solenoid yesterday and it was actually easy. This new one "clicks" when 12 volts is applied...
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