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Just found a diff on ebay that I want to buy and need some help to confirm it is a 10 bolt that will bolt right in to my 85 Firebird.
The guy selling it says its from a camaro year unknown, but looking at the images he sent it has the bolt holes for the torque arm which means it has to be either 3rd gen or 4th gen yes?
In addition it has disc brakes, the mounts look like they're in the right places for the third gens, and he has taken off the cover and says is a posi / LSD 2.73.
The thing that's throwing me is there appears to be another set of teeth on the outer edge of the gear which I haven't seen in any pics of the bolts, or any diff for that matter.
Is anyone able to confirm just from the images what I'm looking at here or confirm if it is posi, etc?
It's '98 up 4th gen since it's got the abs tone wheel on the Carrier
Thanks for that. I had a look at a few pics of the ls1 4th gens but it looked like the abs tone wheel teeth were wider in those than this, I was thinking maybe 94-97? Did they have abs?
Also the 4 spring setup in the center is there anyway to identify the carrier?
I read there is a Auburn and Zexel and one is better than the other?
All 4th gens could have had a 2.73 rear, drivetrain permitting.
Traction assist 4th gens had a sensor at each end.
Those with out Trac-Assist had the single sensor at the pumpkin.
Auburn style posi was used 93-98 standard in V8 models, unless SLP optioned in an SS to a Torsen (this flopped for '99)
But the telltale is 93-97 brakes.
93-97.
Looks 93-97 Camaro/Firebird to me. 3-ch ABS. Doesn't look like an Auburn to me: that brand has a window that's not exactly round, and the carrier itself is a cylinder without a "step" to it like that one has, and the Auburn has a sort of plate that bolts onto the end. Not an Eaton either. Not sure what it is.
Acoupla Auburn carriers for comparison... obviously, what you're looking at isn't one of those...
Both stock, the one on the left was a stock 3rd gen 2 series, the right was a 3 series aftermarket "high perf" replacement from about 95 or so.
The "other set of teeth" is the ABS tone ring; wheel speed sensor in effect, although instead of sensing the speed of the individual wheels and computing each wheel separately, it handles both rear wheels as a unit. Much more crude. It has not only the holes to bolt up a torque arm, but also, a panhard bar still attached. Has the design where the caliper is the parking brake (93-97) rather than the separate drum setup that came in the 98-up. Looks like a typical 4th gen sway bar, much smaller than a 3rd gen.
It will bolt right up to a 82-92 F body but will make the wheels stick out about 1-5/8" farther on each side. Such swaps rub the fenders sometimes depending on wheels tires & ride height, and looks unbelievably stoooooopid with stock wheels because they're so narrow, kinda like those Festivas and Sidekicks you used to see back in the day where Skillet would put wheels on them that made them sit entirely outside the fenders, for what purpose I can't even begin to guess. However 4th gen or C4 or newer Vette wheels will restore the correct width because they are offset toward the inside.
Not a Zexel either BTW; those don't have clutches & springs at all.
Might be a Yukon. Not stock regardless: somebody has had their d***-skinners inside it.
At least it's not a Gov-Lock.
Incidentally, that 3 series Auburn in my photo, the right-hand one, came to me in about 96 or 97 with a tone ring just like that on it. I had already knocked it off before I took that pic. DEFINITELY not 98-up. No "features from the future" in my garage. (that I'm willing to admit to anyway)
Last edited by sofakingdom; 07-18-2019 at 11:42 PM.
I suppose good news is it's not stock so maybe I'm getting something good, realistically it was worth it just for the disc brakes. I'm in Australia so finding a diff for these cars is INCREDIBLY rare, and for $140USD ($200AUD) it's a pretty good deal.
It's replacing a open 2.73 10 bolt drums diff so anything will be considered an upgrade.
Once it's delivered I can take some more pics and see if there's some casting numbers or something on the posi to identify it.
I'll probably take it to a diff shop and get them to inspect and rebuild if necessary, but I'd rather go in knowing a bit about it before handing it over so I don't get ripped off.
I guess to "know more about it," I would test the limited slip breakaway torque (it should be "locked" until enough torque causes friction to be overpowered) and maybe backlash of the gears, and install it, bleed the brakes, and drive it. I believe you need a proportioning valve modification for the discs too.
I'm generally not susceptible to being told "Yep, needs a full rebuild!" but enough shops, here at least, will try it and see what kind of business they can get. That's why I think it would be good for you to know by driving, whether it actually needed anything.
Yeah I'm gonna get the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve to install at the same time and I've got a new master cylinder so I can try and get some sort of respectable braking back for the car.
Looking at the outside of the diff I have a feeling its been sitting for some time, I didn't think I'd be able to sand the rotors to take the surface rust off or anything and figured the bearings might be screwed too if it's been sitting in the elements.
Depending on their rebuild cost it may be worth letting them go though it anyway and replace the bearings and seals.
Hopefully the carrier will have some sort of part number I can use to identify it and confirm.
The seller originally said it was an open diff, so if they've spun the wheel and the other turned the other way the diff my need a rebuild anyway.
It was only after he popped the cover he told me it was a posi.
So I got the diff, despite the surface rust and whatnot it actually looks in pretty good shape.
There's no play between the axles and the yolk everything moves freely without any noises, the brakes looked **** at first look but on closer inspection all seals still look fresh and boots are good so it looks like a new diff gasket, brake pads and rotors and it's good to bolt in.
I was only able to find a single imprint of info on the carrier, "D5 24 368" just below the pin.
Well so far so good. No play in the diff, everything moves smoothly with no clunks or noises. I've replaced the rotors and pads with new ones, and will bolt up as soon as I get my mate to weld a new foot on the parking brake actuator level.
The little end that the parking brake hooks onto had snapped off one side, but everything else is like new.
Still no luck with identifying the carrier though...
Anyone got any ideas on the number meanings? I tried a google search on a few variations but nothing came up.
looks 93-97 with the thinner brake rotors than LS1 cars and that IS a Auburn posi- cones wear and crack! I would guess its junk or on last leg! I would much rather have the 99-02 with the Torsen diff
I would give more than 50-75$ for above diff it would be easy to add Torsen since its 28 spline but more work
looks 93-97 with the thinner brake rotors than LS1 cars and that IS a Auburn posi- cones wear and crack! I would guess its junk or on last leg! I would much rather have the 99-02 with the Torsen diff
I would give more than 50-75$ for above diff it would be easy to add Torsen since its 28 spline but more work
I'd much rather have a 9" or 12 bolt but I don't see any genies granting wishes around here.
I'd probably agree if I was in USA, but as I mentioned earlier in the post, I'm in Australia, and bolt in diffs for these cars are non existent here.
Minimum I'd pay for a junked diff from the states is about $1000 after shipping, or $3000-$4000 for a 9"
Is there a way to check the cones for wear/cracks without disasembling the diff?
Not really... they're pretty much buried way down in there.
It's not to terribly tough to replace it after it's in the car, if you have to, though; takes maybe 2 hrs counting putting the car up on stands with a jack.
Not really... they're pretty much buried way down in there.
It's not to terribly tough to replace it after it's in the car, if you have to, though; takes maybe 2 hrs counting putting the car up on stands with a jack.
ok cool. I'll see how it goes, the parking brake actuator my mate was going to repair, he's just going to fabricate a new one which is good.
I haven't been able to find any instructions to reinstall it with the spring etc, even in the service workshop manual, and it required a fair bit of prying with a screwdriver and jiggling to get it out, so that'll be fun to re-assemble.
07-18-2019, 03:35 PM
(that I'm willing to admit to anyway) 
