Best brand gears
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 265
Likes: 12
From: Cambridge City, IN
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Best brand gears
I'm sure this has been beat to death, but what brand rear end gears would be the best for the stock ten bolt. I'm not looking for ratios, but for the manufacturer you all are using.
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Best brand gears
It has but last time I checked it is still important. There is a lot to finding good gears. When I was buying, Summit Racing was good but there were two plants that made them - Italy and Korea. The Italian ones were considered top quality while the Korean ones were considered to be less so. It had something to do with the quality of the metal, the cutting, etc.
I ended up with the Korean ones and took them to a top shop. They did their best but they howled a little at certain speeds for the first year. The shop checked everything and said it was all spec, but give it a little time. Now they are quiet.
I ended up with the Korean ones and took them to a top shop. They did their best but they howled a little at certain speeds for the first year. The shop checked everything and said it was all spec, but give it a little time. Now they are quiet.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,998
Likes: 2,485
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Best brand gears
Assuming you're looking for "stock replacement" sort of products:
Motive, AAM, Dana/Spicer, US Gear, Precision, Yukon, Strange.
NOT the Richmond drag race ones. Their "stock replacement" ones are quite good though.
Tootie mentioned one of the more important properties: country of origin. Avoid India, Malaysia, China, etc. Not because those people don't know how to make gears or whatever; rather, because the bottom-feeders locate their plants in such places, where labor is cheeeeep. Fits well with the whole "cheeeeeeeeeep" business strategy, which is to be avoided. US, Europe, Japan, Korea, are where the better plants are.
Motive, AAM, Dana/Spicer, US Gear, Precision, Yukon, Strange.
NOT the Richmond drag race ones. Their "stock replacement" ones are quite good though.
Tootie mentioned one of the more important properties: country of origin. Avoid India, Malaysia, China, etc. Not because those people don't know how to make gears or whatever; rather, because the bottom-feeders locate their plants in such places, where labor is cheeeeep. Fits well with the whole "cheeeeeeeeeep" business strategy, which is to be avoided. US, Europe, Japan, Korea, are where the better plants are.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 265
Likes: 12
From: Cambridge City, IN
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Best brand gears
Assuming you're looking for "stock replacement" sort of products:
Motive, AAM, Dana/Spicer, US Gear, Precision, Yukon, Strange.
NOT the Richmond drag race ones. Their "stock replacement" ones are quite good though.
Tootie mentioned one of the more important properties: country of origin. Avoid India, Malaysia, China, etc. Not because those people don't know how to make gears or whatever; rather, because the bottom-feeders locate their plants in such places, where labor is cheeeeep. Fits well with the whole "cheeeeeeeeeep" business strategy, which is to be avoided. US, Europe, Japan, Korea, are where the better plants are.
Motive, AAM, Dana/Spicer, US Gear, Precision, Yukon, Strange.
NOT the Richmond drag race ones. Their "stock replacement" ones are quite good though.
Tootie mentioned one of the more important properties: country of origin. Avoid India, Malaysia, China, etc. Not because those people don't know how to make gears or whatever; rather, because the bottom-feeders locate their plants in such places, where labor is cheeeeep. Fits well with the whole "cheeeeeeeeeep" business strategy, which is to be avoided. US, Europe, Japan, Korea, are where the better plants are.
Supreme Member




Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,042
Likes: 822
From: Colorado USA
Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
Engine: 350 with L-69 components
Transmission: 700R-4, 2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Re: Best brand gears
I've had 2 sets of Motive gears, professionally set up, and they howeled like crazy. I'd say stay away from Motive...
Re: Best brand gears
Factory GM gears are the quietest and the US Gear are one of the better ones. Keeping the 10 bolt alive, make sure you use a steel cap and the good bolts on the ring gear side only. Use the re-enforcement cover and add extra magnets where possible. Run the backlash at a minimum. Lubrication engineers oil, and use the GM posi lube. These rear ends can go into the elevens and live. They do not each much horsepower at all.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,998
Likes: 2,485
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Best brand gears
If you are building a PURE drag race car, that NEVER EVER sees the street, then the Richmond drag race gears are great. That's what they're built for. They are made of metal that isn't hardened near as much as "stock replacement" ones, but rather is more "tough", such that it absorbs the shock of hard launches that will shatter stock type ones about like glass. But if the car EVER runs on the street, EVER, even just ONCE, they're not a good idea; their lower hardness means greatly increased wear as the miles accumulate. It's not about "quality", it's about suitability for a particular purpose.
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Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 265
Likes: 12
From: Cambridge City, IN
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Best brand gears
If you are building a PURE drag race car, that NEVER EVER sees the street, then the Richmond drag race gears are great. That's what they're built for. They are made of metal that isn't hardened near as much as "stock replacement" ones, but rather is more "tough", such that it absorbs the shock of hard launches that will shatter stock type ones about like glass. But if the car EVER runs on the street, EVER, even just ONCE, they're not a good idea; their lower hardness means greatly increased wear as the miles accumulate. It's not about "quality", it's about suitability for a particular purpose.
Last edited by Logan Bryant; Oct 17, 2019 at 08:46 AM.
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