Franco85Z

Any recommended numbers in terms of how much play I want in the counter and main shaft? Shims are my next step.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Look up the t56 pdf rebuild guide. Go with the tightest numbers they suggest, or a bit tighter.

Franco85Z

Alright I've hit a problem. I think it's the stuff I spent 90 bucks to have pressed in. Once I tighten the mid plate it locks up the entire transmission. I can't move anything. I take it that my gears are not 100% the way down. A press is a little over 100 bucks at harbor freight. I was hoping the job would get done right. That's if it's the things I had pressed in. Any tips? Or should I go back and have them redo it all.

Franco85Z

Thats about the distance it won't go down.

b_the_j

If your 700r is stuck in first gear pop the governor out and check for stripped gear its plastic cheap and easy to get to

jmd

iTrader: (4)

You should have no shims in the front case adapter plate.
Go ahead and take the maindrive and mainshaft out so you can verify the countershaft fits and is able to be shimmed.

The largest tapered bearing sits behind 1st gear and sits against the flat step in the mainshaft. 2nd speed gear should spin with that bearing in place, but not be able to lift. Did the big race in the case for that bearing get replaced?

The lock ring holding the 3-4 synchro on should be obviously locked in the groove up front.

Did the bearing on the front of.the mainshaft get replaced? How about the race inside the maindrive?

Spin things as you assemble them. It sets the bearins in the races. It sets the keys into the blockers.

Franco85Z

Do I follow the manual like gods word? I saw a guy who said to set counter shaft clearances first then set main shaft.

Franco85Z

When I was moving it around it seemed like the blocker came out and undone. I reset everything in for the 4th gear and she sits fine. My bad. I didn't think of that before posting but she spins like butter.

Franco85Z

Alright! I've set my shims. Got a .98 for the counter and the .80 for the main shaft. Those feel pretty big but I got those in. I can tug on the main shaft and see a .01 or .02 or no gain. If I'm doing anything please let me know. Again I set the counter shaft first then main shaft. I can redo them if I did it the wrong way. I'm going to clean up my case and gears and do a final assembly today.

Franco85Z

Franco85Z

does this look correct?
Update I got the case cleaned and on. 3-4 fork was a tight fit but its in there. Everything spins a bit tighter now but that's probably because the fork pads are not lubed up. I might reshim the trans the way factory says to after some research.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Consider the recommended "tight" number for countershaft clearance to be the "loose" number. In other words, tighten it up. Same for mainshaft.

3-4 fork into the synchro? Should just be the bronze keys into the slider. Tighness on the rail itself could impact shift movement.

Franco85Z

So tighter then what factory recommended because what the factory recommended is loose? I feel like I've set things on the tighter side. If so then I'm comfortable with what I got going. I shall proceed!

Anyway yes the fork is in the right spot I figure its because of the pads. When I set the clearances initially while the trans was in the vertical position it would spin easily. Not as easy as with no shims. With the forks in it was upside down. Figure that pressure and for pads would cause some resistance. I don't mind taking off the trans again to redo things. Reshim or install new fork pads.
Any signs of a improperly shimmed trans? What's the normal temperature these run at? I'm planning to throw a temp sensor on it. Because when I got the input shaft bearing off it had signs of heat the outer ring was blue. The shim also had major scoring.

Franco85Z

Two days until I start tearing down the car for the swap! Should be able to do it in a weekend plus some of Monday. I've got everything set up. All snap rings placed in. Front and rear halfs are RTVd on. Just need fluid in it. I got some redline D4. It moves like butter! God lord I didn't think it end up being as smooth as it is Also got a powermaster new starter. Can I get some info on the pilot bushing I need? I know I need bronze but do I go to my auto shop and ask for a pilot bushing for a 93 LT1 or one for a 85 SBC? Or go to my local speed shop? I'm also missing some wiring on my T56 I need to get some pigtails.

rburrow87

iTrader: (1)

Good luck! I'm happy with D4 in mine.

Technically they take a bearing but I'm running a bushing because I'm too lazy to check and align the bellhousing. I'm running a Pioneer PB-656 (-HD?), O'Reilly should have them. Same dimensions as the bearing. Not sure what application takes a same size bushing vs bearing.

What did you settle on for the clutch stuff?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Bronze. A new bushing should not be magnetic, but there are some (junk) out there.

Franco85Z

Alright! I've installed the clutch and new starter. I've had like four cables attached to my stock starter. No idea what they did. I tired to match them the to the terminals I took them off of. Got the on my positive terminal and one on the negative. Next is to cut the hole for the t56 shifter and mount my clutch pedal. But! I under estimated how hard it was to get a hydro hose that fits my throwout bearing. And I need a adapter for my master cylinder to the TOB. Need a 3/8th to 7/16ths. I'll end up making a hard line if that's my only option to get it done quickly.

Franco85Z

Alright I'm dumb. The TOB is 4 AN and my master cylinder is 3/8th. I just remembered about this spot here in Long Beach CA called Deering industries. I'll be going to them and getting what I need.

Franco85Z

Alright! Here's what I've got so far. I tighten the bell housing. And forgot that I needed to take my measurements for the throwout bearings air gap. I'll get to that tomorrow. I also need to put a hole in the trans tunnel to fish the 4AN line through. I also still haven't added anything to the collar of the T56 to make it sung on the TOB. If I move the lines right I can have the TOB stud/bolt sit between some mid plate ribbing. Also I can row and turn all gears. 4 and 3 are like butter. 1 to 2 I gotta add some force to push it out of 2nd. Same with 5th and 6th. But not as much as 1 and 2. Reverse is hard to get in. Waiting to get it mounted before I try it. I do have pigtails coming in some time this week too.

TORN

iTrader: (17)

Might want to install a 45 degree fitting to the upper line of the slave cylinder. Anything braided lines touch it will chew thru over time.

Franco85Z

I forgot to ask the guy who made my lines for a 90. I can probably get one locally.

Franco85Z

The plate isn't pretty or shiny. But this is what I thought up. I just need a nut on the back of that bronze bolt and I think we are good. Next is getting the TOB to fit snug on the mid plates collar.

Franco85Z

The plate isn't pretty or shiny. But this is what I thought up. I just need a nut on the back of that bronze bolt and I think we are good. Next is getting the TOB to fit snug on the mid plates collar.
I checked my gap from the bell housing to the pressure plate fingers I got 31.10mm. I don't want to remove the bell housing. So if anyone has any bright ideas for getting my air gap without removed the bell then putting it on the T56. Let me know. I'll be thinking about.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Is the inside of the TOB grooved for O-rings?

(Pressure plate fingers distance from bellhousing face) - (TOB distance off the front face of the trans.) should be a positive number. Shouldn't have to take the bell off the engine; just figure out how to put the TOB at the right place. I don't know what your TOB mfgr. suggests for a gap, if any.

Franco85Z

It is groved on the bottom for a oring. Not the top.

Alright I'll do that. But I didn't see any suggestions on speedways website for a gap. I was gonna go with .150 if I can get that. Looks like it's going to be a tight fit.

Franco85Z

Okay! So I measured a couple times. Wasn't to happy with the large plate I had felt like it would mess up air gap and just rattle. It already was bending up toward the clutch. Acting like a spring. I cant say how thick the shims are but I added 2 or them. I have about 3.3mm of air gap or .130ish. I also used tape to fill ID gap between the TOB and collar. Used 3 pieces of tape. It's very snug on. Have to pull and wiggle it off. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to install and bleed everything. My next worry is that I got a Sphon torque arm and cross member. And setting up the torque arm seems difficult. I really dont want vibrations coming into the car.

Franco85Z

I've got everything on the car! Been a long week and then some. Okay so I got most of everything ready. I just need to wire in the reverse lockout and back up lights. Still dont know how to wire up the VSS to my EBL Flash or to my glowshift odometer. But that's for a later time. My hydro system isn't fully bled yet. I don't know when to stop bleeding the system. The pedal has gotten stiffer. I probably should've done all that outside the car. But I've started the car in gear 1st thru 4th. No weird noises everything is smooth. Just car vibrations when the gear is to tall for the given RPM. I'll continue to bleed the clutch tomorrow. How likely would it be if I got a TOB that doesn't have enough travel for a stock type clutch like the one I got? I mean all this stuff should work with each other. My only hurtle was fitting the TOB and making it stay in one spot. Which from the looks of it. I've done.

Franco85Z

It all works. I've completed most of the major stuff. Need to wire reverse lockout and all that. But I've got the clutch and hydraulic system to all work together. It still hasn't the driveway. But it's been up and down the driveway. Feels like a normal manual car. I need to adjust my pedal travel. At first I wasn't getting enough travel I thought my TOB or master cylinder didn't have enough movement or fluid capacity to do the job. But I gave my wilwood pedal more travel and it all worked. I'll readjust it to where I get just enough travel to engage the TOB. So I guess this thread is complete. I'll be posting about reliability later on.