I'm trying to wrap up my auto to T5 swap and today I was trying to test out the clutch. I don't think it is fully disengaging.

Setup:
Hawks Pedals T5/T56 Swap Pedals - https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-...-reproduction/
MCL139305 Clutch Master Cylinder, 13/16 in Bore
Perfect Clutch Slave 37821 (84-92 Chev. Camaro, Berlinetta, Iroc, Z28, 84-92 Firebird, Trans Am)

I don't think I'm getting a full extension on the slave unit. I've attached a video...Should I have more movement of the fork?


I'm worried the Hawk's pedals are the same as 4th Gen Pedals and my pivot point is too high. Has anyone used these pedals with t5?

Any help would be appreciated...Thanks

 

Have you driven it yet?

Going by what I recall from my swap (about 2 months ago) that looks like enough movement, but I didn't crawl under mine with a tape measure or anything.

 

The car is still up in the air...

I start the car and neutral and then when I try to put the car in gear it grinds trying to go into any gear.

 

Yeah, sounds like it's not disengaging. Either that or somethings up with the internals of the trans.

What happens when you start the car in gear (but clutch in)? If you do that and the wheels are spinning with the clutch in then you'd definitely know for sure.

You might need to bleed the hydraulics.

 

Did you bleed the hydraulics?

 

I should have some time to try a few things today...

I'm pretty sure there are some hydraulics issues but I'm more worried that the trans might be toast. I bypassed the clutch release so I can start it in gear...Tried 2nd and 3rd and the wheels aren't spinning...

I'm not smelling anything like a burning clutch so...

 

I did "a" process...I don't know if it was 100% effective.

The pedal seems firm, almost too firm, and I was no longer getting air bubbles. I did perform everything on-car though.

1. attached hose to slave unit and placed into brake fluid...Pumped that several times until no air bubbles.
2. Attached slave to car but not mounted
3. filled reservoir
4. pumped the slave
5. Blocked slave with gear puller
6. Pumped clutch pedal (Quite a few times until it became firm and no bubbles.)
7. Mounted slave to car

However, as stated in a later post, I started the car in gear and the wheels aren't moving.

 

Sounds like you bled it just fine but your trans if having issues.

I apologize in advance for the following dumb question - did you fill the trans up with fluid?

 

No dumb questions...The last clutch I changed was on a front wheel drive Honda 20+ years ago.

I put in 3 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF Multi-Vehicle Formula. Manual calls for 5.9 pints 3 quarts are 6 pints.

I created a checklist of everything so I wouldn't forget anything...

 

Good call on the checklist, I did the same thing when I did mine, haha.

Did you buy the trans new? was it rebuilt? sounds like something isn't right inside since the wheels don't move when in gear and it grinds when shifting.

 

I bought it used off Facebook on one of those Firebird/Camaro parts forums...Guy had good seller ratings so I didn't worry about it. He said he had removed it from his car to do something else but it worked fine and hadn't been rebuilt. However, when I received the transmission he sent every T5 piece he owned with it (which was kind of nice b/c I have lots of hard to find parts) but In the box were lots of internal parts that now have me wondering if it was rebuilt.

This was kind of part one to a longer plan which will ultimately be LS/T56. I wanted to get the auto to manual done first using parts I know fit and should work before diving head-on into parts that never came with the vehicle. Plus the longer the car sits the more my wife tells me I should get rid of it b/c I don't drive it. This was this winter's project and I'm ready to drive this thing.

So what to do next? I'll probably try and troubleshoot a bit more...Maybe rebuild the T5 if I can find a decent kit in-stock...I really don't want to throw more money at it given it is only temporary.

The transmission had been sitting dry in storage for a few months since I got it but seems to shift in and out of gears just fine while not running...

 

Hm, since it came with a bunch of parts it's possible the seller was working on it and didn't put something back together. I'd pull it and take a look inside. Might not need a rebuild, might just have something misaligned or altogether missing

 

SO I just sent back out there and tried a few things...

I'm pretty sure I get too much travel as when I push the pedal all the way down I get a horrible noise which is probably the fingers hitting. However, when I pushed down say 3/4 of the way, I can shift in and out of gears without grinding but still no wheel movement when you let out the clutch.

Could it be I have the clutch backwards? I checked that thing a few times to make sure but you never know...

 

Worth checking.

Fully depressing the pedal shouldn't be an issue as that's how it's supposed to be operated.

 

Granted, if the disc was backwards you would hear all sorts of bad noises with or without the pedal depressed.

 

Did you install the thorwout bearing correctly?

 

I'm almost positive I did...I'm probably pulling this thing out this weekend so I'll be able to check both clutch and throwout bearing again.

Wouldn't the clutch be engaged even if the throwout bearing were installed wrong? The fact that the wheels don't spin even when started in gear makes me think something is broken in the trans.

I think my extra throw can be contributed to the larger bore size of the master. I really didn't think about that when I bought it. It claims to be "compatible" with 85-97 cars but it does have a slightly larger bore.

 

So didn't get much done this weekend but today I unbolted the trans in preparation to drop it. Much to my surprise I find this....Uggh!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by midias View Post
Did you install the thorwout bearing correctly?

Looks to be good...

 

Can you turn the input shaft of the trans and get it to turn the output shaft?

 

That might be related to your problem, since pushing the clutch also tries to split the bell housing off of the block.

You can verify that, yea or nay, by putting your clutch alignment tool in, and watching it while your assistant pushes the clutch pedal.

 

Yes...Last night after dropping the trans I went through all gears turning the input shaft and watching my output shaft turn with it. This doesn't completely rule out an issue with the trans but it has me thinking more of a clutch/alignment issue. It could also be my throwout bearing is hung up and keeps the clutch partially disengaged. This might explain the grinding of the gears but not enough power to move the tires.

 

I will give it a try once she gets home...Thanks

 

FML...Well, I figured out the issue other than that cracked bell housing! Chalk this one up to not doing enough due diligence and really inspecting the pictures.

The guy told me he had this running the T5 behind his Iroc and pulled it out to restore the car. So I look and low and behold I have a 14 spline f'in input shaft. Luckily I didn't seem to mess anything up in the process. (Tech Tip...Make sure the clutch slides easily over your input shaft before installing it on the car. Same with throwout bearing)

So what do I do now? I guess I can run the V8 bell housing, pressure plate and a v6 clutch? Change the input shaft? Admittedly I have not looked very hard but how much different are the gear ratios?

Do I just cut my losses at this point and go another direction...Keep in mind this was only going to be for the summer.

 

Ouch. Brutal. I'd cut my losses at this point if it was only for the summer. I'm not entirely sure what combination of parts works without looking it up but I don't think I'd bother personally.

 

I think there is a S10 10.5" clutch plate that works

 

I don't get it. Are you saying the splines (diameter) on the input shaft are smaller than the disk splines? If so, how would that factor into grinding, when trying to put it in gear? If the clutch is disengaging the eng. from the tranny, then when you try putting it into 1st, it still should go in W/O grinding. It "then" would grind, (or slip) when you release the clutch, and try and move the car. Are you sure you're explaining it right?

 

I might not be explaining it correctly...I ripped it all out anyway and just went with TKX. So far so good...Just need to wrap up a few little things but it is working like it should.

 

Was your TKX a fairly straightforward swap? I briefly looked into it but have bigger fish to fry before I get that far.

 

I was going from auto to manual so it wasn't just drop in a go but it seems pretty straightforward.