Hello, guys, I really need your help. I have a T56 from a Camaro 1995, so it's an LT1 style, but I converted the front plate. I put an adapter plate for my slave cylinder, but now the slave puts so much pressure on the pressure plate that the wheel does spin as if the clutch pedal was pressed on. I tried to remove the air from the slave, and that didn't work the slave is like it is in the smaller position. I need to know if I need a bigger bellhousing, like in-depth it is possible to have a very low-profile slave cylinder. Thanks for your help. My setup of the clutch is Ram clutches 92761.

 

I think you need to elaborate on what parts you have. You swapped the front plate of the lt1 trans to what? An a LS style? What bell housing are you using? What engine/flywheel? What hydros are you using?

so when the pedal is pushed the clutch will not release?

 

The flywheel I am using is a PRW SFI billet steel Chevy SB 383-400 1970-85 Ext Bal,29 lbs, 153T. My motor is a 383 stroker two-piece. The bellhousing is the stock one from the LT1 transmission from the 1995 Camaro. What I did for the slave is put in a midplate conversion from Texas Drivetrain. It's a plate that you can bolt your slave on. Because the LT1 transmission originally was a pull-style slave, but for my application of flywheel and clutch, I need a pull style. I didn't even try to clutch in because the slave is all the way retracted, and it makes pressure with the pressure plate.

 

Space the slave out from the mid plate with some washers.

 

So, yeah it sounds like you need some spacers. Usually hydraulic release bearings need to be just off the surface of the diaphragm fingers. The clearance is supposed to be like 0.08-0.15 inches but that is clutch dependent. If you have too much gap then the clutch won't release or won't release fully. Also, if you over travel the release bearing it's gonna leak and potentially damage it and get fluid all over.

 

Hello, thank you for the response. My problem is quite the opposite; I don't have any clearance between the bearing and the pressure plate. So the slave pushes all the way in the pressure plate. I also tried to put some washers between the transmission and the motor; it helped a little bit, but it was still slipping.

 

https://www.txdrivetrain.com/product/lt1-to-ls1-fbody-t56-midplate-conversion-adapter/?attribute_would-you-like-for-us-to-do-the-installation=Yes+%2B$80.00&gQT=2

That just makes the LT1 front plate act like an LS1 front plate. I am guessing that's what you have.

Your bellhousing isn't deep enough. If I remember correctly, the LS1 bell/input/front plate and a bellhousing spacer (that TDP used to sell) let you use the LS trans. on the early engine. Quicktime had a scattershield to do that too.

The LT1 front plate isn't the right one for ultra-shallow slave mounting. BTDT.

 

Sorry, I clearly misread it.

yeah, I agree with the last post. I have an Ls t56 and it needed a special adaptor bell housing to mount to a sbc. You need to measure your current release bearing depth in relation to the engine block to bell housing surface. Then check your distance between the clutch finger surface and the block surface where the bell mounts. Take the difference between the two. That difference is the space between release bearing surface and the clutch fingers. If this number is negative then you have no space!

also measure for pilot bearing depth/length of your input into the pilot orifice. It sounds like you need a conversion bell housing. Quick time makes one that should work, that's what I used.

 

f I just put an adapter plate between the transmission and the motor, is it going to work? I want to save some bucks. I find ICT Billet bellhousing spacers 551823-250 on Summit it 0.250 in.

 

It may work, it may not. Do you only need 0.25 of clearance? It will also alter how far your input shaft inserts in to the pilot bearing. You're gonna need to take it apart and check these clearances. Think my quick time bell housing was 0.5-0.75 deeper than a stock bell. I think the Ls t56 has a 0.5-0.75 inch longer input shaft. So, idk if 0.25 in will cut it. You really don't want the input shaft pushing into the back of the crank/pilot
bearing. Also, properly locating your bell housing is much more important w a t56. This is important from a shift quality and longevity point of view. Adding adaptor plates will add potential for a negative effect on crank/trans centerline runout.

 

4 things are needed. You have addressed two.

Being a cheap *** will get you a clutch that won't release properly, premature bearing wear, damaged shaft surfaces, and cracked castings. Proper alignment and spacing are required, not optional contingent on budget.