86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

If you go by the trouble shooting in the book, I either have a vacuum leak, bad emmision system or ECM. well I went over all the vaccum lines, i do not think its the ECm and many said theres ended up being a bad/suck EGR. [ around 2-3000 rpm it studders }

the EGR system takes gases from both headers and routes them to the intake near the throttle body, right?

well if its a bad EGR why not just unhook it at the plenium and plug the hole off.

the car should run fine, now with a stuck EGR it might leak ext. gases out the flex tube but that can be pluged too.

this should be a good test and if it dont help it must be my ECM.

any ill effects that could happen from not having the EGR hooked up?? it dont do anything but feed oily dirty gases into the plenium.
how can that be a good thing.

screw the EPA, they can kiss my a$$.



I can not beleive how dirt it is inside my plenium and that hole where the EGR hose connects had 1/8 in of crud with a 1/16 in of crud everywhere, and only plce that crap could come from is the EGR hose and dirty ext. gases

man what a dumb idea, dirty up my engine just for some clen air, geese



I live near 3 oil refineries, 1 coal burning power plat and 1 nuke plant that just got shut down. all with in 2-10 miles.

so when i see them worry about polution I will.

1991tealRSt-topGuy

ummmmm maybe because your entire fuel injection system was designed to work with an EGR system..........good enough reason?

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

ahhhh well I cleaned the upper plenium, made a cover plate for the EGR where it hooks to the plenium and guess what

its works it works it works.....

yes yes yes yes yes, my car run right again. not the fule filter, or the pump, or the ECm but the dreaded EGR.

But a home made cover plate and good bye EGr system.

2 down 1 to go.

air pump system was gone and now the EGR system.

next i want to kill the PVC system.

I Cant Drive 55

DONT kill the PCV system. You need the PCV sytem to reduce crank case pressure and properly vent the crankcase.
As your crank turns and your pistons move up and down it is creating pressure at the bottom of the engine. The PCV system pulls fresh air through the base from the opposite side of the engine. You could put crank case breathers in both valve covers. But why? Pcv valves are cheap enough to replace and removing it would not give you any more power.
Just my .02.

TomP

I honestly don't even agree with killing the EGR system. Like I mentioned a few days ago, EGR doesn't cost our engine HP, and it might actually cause some low-rpm detonation to occur. When the computer kicks the EGR on, it leans out the fuel mixture, since the EGR's added gasses will make the a/f mix rich. So there might be some extra pinging if you go uphill while EGR is engaged. And EGR only engages at high car speed, low engine speed situations- meaning, if you're crusing on the interstate at 60 MPH, then EGR is active. If you're doing a 1/4 mile blast at the local racetrack, EGR will never turn on. But killing it is cool for testing purposes, since you're right, the lack of an EGR can't do any damage...

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

only reason i said that is cause of the amount of gunk that comes through it.

on the one that connects into the plastic air hose near the throtle body, has been unhook and I pluged the hole and put a performance looking pvc filter I had on a bike but i removed it when sold. I did not like the gunk build up that came from there. now that one is real close.


It is a good idea but them hot gases stay as a mist till they hit the air stream then collect everywhere, most of that junk ant mainkg it into the cumbustion system. just building up all over the place.

it just is not right for an intake system to get so gunky.

I Cant Drive 55

I agree they (PCV SYSTEM) are a pain to keep clean . If you spray GUM CUTTER or injection cleaner through the PCV valve and vacuum hose periodically it will reduce the amount of build up.

I also agree with TomP on the EGR issue. EGR valve for your car should be less than 50 bucks. The newer ones with the digital EGR valve can be costly though.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

I might change the EGR or clean it, but the book is not clear on where it or or even what it looks like. just a set of instruction and I need pictures.

Now I am 90% sure on where it is, kinda obvious but yesterday I pulled my plenium cause I was board n figured it it didnt run right I could atleast start to explore.

Then I got thinking and pluged that hole off n slaped it back on with some goop.

so far i have spent about75 bucks on stuff with no avail, and a few min of cleaning and making a cover plate solved my problem.


now i just need a new coil n tune up and maybe replace the EGR, but I want to make sure it run good for a bit before I re Install it.


also from doing my fuel filter I managed to make my back brakes leak, so thats next.

TomP

The EGR is the UFO looking thing above the passenger side exhaust manifold... it might still have some black factory paint on it, and will have one vacuum line going into the top.

I replaced mine in January; the original one was sticking open, I had plugged the vac line in, oh, I guess, October? Anyway emissions was coming up, so I went to Pep Boys and got one for $40... stupid thing was a "universal" EGR valve screwed onto a GM base. The vac line was pointing in the exact opposite direction, and the EGR wasn't even painted, it was a brass color. Worst of all: Know how we can put our fingers underneath the EGR valve and feel the bottom of the diaphragm? That was how I diagnosed my EGR as sticking open; the diaphragm was "up". Anyway, this thing, instead of being completely open, had a ton of little tiny punched holes. I woudl've had to stick a toothpick or something in there to find the position of the diaphragm.

So I took the sucker back. (Pep Boys gave me crap about it because it looked used; I said hey, that's how you gave it to me, look at the mounting surfaces, they're clean.) I paid $60 for a GM one that was exactly like my original- open bottom for the diaphragm, vacuum line pointed in the right spot- and with a nice coat of gloss black on it. Damn thing is the shiniest thing in my engine compartment now! LOL!

GhostRider84

I have a carb with a vaccum EGR. I have the vaccum disconnected for driving around town, when I get on the highway for a long trip I hook it up. I think that the computer controled it with a solinoid - but the computer went south. The book sez that it "lowers the combustion temperature" - I'm kinda conserned that, over time you may damage your valves. I'd like to hear from someone that has had their's disconnected for a while.
If your EGR is spitting back crud into your manifold - youre burnning oil and/ or running way too rich.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

well yesterday i took everything off again to clean it up better and to play with the EGR.

my EGR is fine, must be the funky thing near it that controls it.

oh well, long as it runs right for now i will fix that stuff later.

need a new coil wire plugs, rear brake line.

and i still am trying to save 500 for a new carb set for my bike.

i just made a better cover plate and plug off the EGR. i think when i do the EGR i need to just replace all the vacuum lines.

I have had many many car with the EGR not hooked u but not on a computer car yet.


all i need is my O2 sensor and a volt metter and I can fine tune it how i want. now controling the computer is another ting.

do they make a lap link for our computer?

is making one possiable.

I could make any engine run clean and right with less junk than GM did.

and well 200,000+ miles of gunk is what i cleaned out. might take another 200,000 to get that dirty again but i dont like it being even possiable.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

you need to remember since you watch this forum more. soon as anyone start talking about the studdering and they start asking about fuel pums n such, tell them to plug off the EGR first.

then the fuel presure n other stuff.

TomP

Good point! Glad to hear the car's working better and that you traced it to the EGR.. course I'll still tell ya to replace it when you get a chance anyway! What rear brake line do you need?

You can buy the Diacom program from http://www.rinda.com for $300, but the Prom burning board has a few old messages up that involve some free software, making your own cable, and a Windows95 laptop. In fact, someone on this board did it, and said it worked out! I've got two $50 386 laptops I've bought (+3 years ago) to save for the Diacom program.

To modify settings in the prom you'll also need a $300 prom burner and a few proms. I think there's a "beginners guide to prom burning" article by Traxion in the thirdgen.org tech section. Plus if you do searches on the PROM board you can find out a TON of info- almost too much info!

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

its the long brake line, from front to rear.

when doing my fuel filter of course the lines twisted, so I used doubble clamps and steal braided hose to patch a new one in.

doing all that I moved the other lines and it started leaking.

I am thinking of just puttin in a patch with some pressure connectors.

KED85

I have your 84 style carb set up on my 1985 S-10 Blazer w/211,500 miles on it.
I've had the EGR on that disconnected since I've owned it from 1989.
I can tell ya, no problems at all.
I constantly run 185* too.
My set up even fooled the smog police every time.
I buried the hose so much!
I ran 175,000 miles to back this up.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

You know it really is not that hard as long as you know what wires are what, shoot just tap in wires and some resistor control ***** on the right circuts and tell the car what you want it to think.

control the o2 voltage and the air temp sensor would be a good start, the MAF also.

that should be enough to take over fuel control. a good MSD sysytem will let you control the spark curv.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

hey can you post the link for the laplink or what ever that wroks???

thee are so many post and all about different stuff but similar. I have no idea really about any of it but I know it is simple.

KED85

Don't some of the chip makers offer the cable & info?
The early years "should" be the easist to break & recode.
I really doubt it would do any true good, tho.
When the engine management system works right, the car runs and performs very well.
You are seeking torque.
It ain't in a lap top computer.
Swap in a 3.4.
You will gain what you truly seek.
More Power.
The entire RPM range.

TomP

I nabbed a front-to-rear brake line from an '84 Firebird for $10... luckily, the engine was out, so it was no problem to get out, but putting it in- ouch. You can buy a new one from http://www.classictube.com if the local guys want a fortune.

I don't know the link, the message should be pretty recent though, so you could order the search by "newest first".

GhostRider84

Don't just patch your brake line - do a first class job or take it to a pro - its your life & the lives of other people your messin' with. Save money on other systems on your car but not your brakes.